OZM29C

A work of art. Well done. Its more fun putting a weasel together as opposed to just slogging it out doing sheet metal work. Look forward to future reports.

@aktrapperbrad Another thing that comes to mind when re assembling the final drive is to pay very particular attention to 'Timing' the Brake band actuating shaft to the brake band cam. Don't assume that the timing was correct when you dismantled the final drive. There is a full explanation on how to carry out this task in the TM. @Patrick Tipton Contact Patrick if you don't have the TM as he can (as in my case) supply an excellent reproduction of the relevant TM. Cheers.

No worries @Patrick Tipton Patrick. I removed myself from the FB weasel forums as I received some undeserved criticism when responding to a post there so this forum is my only outlet nowadays to share weasel restoration knowledge. Any updates on the T24 restoration although I know that you have been busy on a myriad of other projects.

@aktrapperbradOne small but very important point to consider when servicing the final drive is to use the correct oil as specified in the TM. In my case I used a Castrol product, see attachment. The key point out of the brochure is 'Monograde Low Detergent' API SB oil. I think I put about 7 litres into the final drive. On a side note, I installed a removable plate on the underside of the hull to facilitate an easier method of draining the final drive oil. Gary Setcy's Final drive article is well worth reading. I have attached it below for you. CAstrol Classic XL 30 Oil.pdf Drive Removal.pdf

Hmmm, the photos are out of sequence but you get the picture😂😂

One of the problems to contend with when making a turn at high speed with the LAR tracks is the possibility of a sprocket tooth jumping and engaging the track between the grousers. Photo 1 shows the problem. Photo 2 shows the simple ‘Special tool’ I use to reset the track. Photo 3 shows the tool set up ready to go. Video 4 shows how the sprocket tooth is reset in the LAR track. Unfortunately my son cut the video short but photo 5 shows the sprocket and track restored. IMG_5250.mov

@Pips_Blaauw Here are some detailed photos of the various parts that you will need to find or fabricate for your rudder set up. Note that the outer rear stretcher pocket is not parallel to the outside of the float tank.

@F-D Zernia Fred, have your tiller arms been reinforced as per the attached TB? TB 9-772-FE6.pdf

@F-D Zernia 👍👍 If you really want to go over the top with this restoration, don't forget to include the little guide ring for your HT wires 😄

@Pips_Blaauw If you are going to install a rear marker lamp, you will need to make or find the riser conduit. Attached is a drawing to help you. Marker Lamp Riser Conduit.pdf

@Pips_Blaauw BZ for your ongoing efforts Pips👌 You are creating a weasel float kit from nothing. All the more reason that you will thoroughly enjoy taking your weasel into the water for some fun. BTW weasels in the water are not the best of watercraft, especially when trying to manoeuvre. To quote @Brock , you need to 'Will' a weasel in the water to get it to drive in the direction you need to go 😄 As added encouragement, attached is a video of my weasel at its first launch. Weasel in Water.mp4

@F-D Zernia The oil seal in question does indeed prevent oil migrating from the crankcase into the distributor shaft chamber. The angle drive bevel gears are lubricated with a good quality high temperature bearing grease. Don't forget to cut a new sealing gasket for the angle drive inspection cover. Finally don't forget to replace the old cork seals that seal both the angle drive and distributor from the elements. Attached is a photo of a modern drop in seal that should be readily available from a reputable bearing/seal service centre.

@Pips_Blaauw Any updates Pips?

@Pips_Blaauw Do you have the angled strips of metal that go between the hull and front float tank? There are two pieces.