M29C3284 Posted April 15 Author Share Posted April 15 @Patrick Tipton Check the parts catalog it is in there. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick Tipton Posted April 15 Share Posted April 15 Indeed you are correct. I have one on a very nice panel that is broken....one more to check. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M29C3284 Posted April 15 Author Share Posted April 15 I was thinking of maybe trying to reproduce a batch of this resistor as it seems to often be missing. If you have one that is not broken and can check the resistance value it would be very helpful. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick Tipton Posted May 1 Share Posted May 1 I got 26µF ..the paper cover and insulator are both broken and the resistor looks slightly overheated in one spot, although the wire is still intact. My math says 8.6 volts, which seems a little high, but then again, the float gauge is presumably going to add resistance too? I believe that the vast majority of WW2 gas gauges were made 6v (maybe all) - some of the Dodges & half-tracks have similar resistor setups. These guys are kinda turkeys and the product isn't made authentically, but I would bet it works: https://www.vintagepowerwagons.com/products/new-fuel-gauge-resistor-cc921257-r I have another one that I am going to try and get access to....I believe it is still intact, but as you know they are fragile little beasts. Regards, Patrick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OZM29C Posted May 1 Share Posted May 1 @Patrick Tipton@M29C3284 Just to be certain, is this the resistor that you need a resistance reading from? Cheers 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick Tipton Posted May 2 Share Posted May 2 Yes sir! @OZM29C! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M29C3284 Posted May 3 Author Share Posted May 3 @OZM29C Yes, that's the one. @Patrick Tipton I guess you measured 26 ohms and not 26 micro farad? I measured two NOS fuel senders and they both measured 0-125 ohms from full to empty, so when I did some calculation I came up with that the resistor should be around 60-65 ohms. Not sure if this is correct or not. Hopefully we can get a measurement from an undamaged resistor. I have heard both good and bad about the commercially available resistors. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick Tipton Posted May 3 Share Posted May 3 51 minutes ago, M29C3284 said: @OZM29C Yes, that's the one. @Patrick Tipton I guess you measured 26 ohms and not 26 micro farad? 🤣 I demonstrate my electrically challenged nature. I kept having to change ranges in order to get the reading.....I got 26 somethings! @OZM29C will hopefully get a good measurement and I am going out this weekend to try and get one that from a resistor that is still intact. Patrick 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M29C3284 Posted June 26 Author Share Posted June 26 Found a resistor that wasn't broken on my other weasel. So got the resistance measurement of that one and it measured roughly 32 ohms. And with some ohms law I calculated it to be the correct value for a voltage drop from 12 to 6 volt in the fuel gauge circuit. So more to come on this when I get all the parts needed. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M29C3284 Posted June 27 Author Share Posted June 27 (edited) Finally finished the final drive. I started to work on it 11 years ago. When I took it apart all those years ago, I discovered that it wasn't in the best condition. First of the worm gear for the speedometer drive was missing, several planet gears where in bad shape as well as the gear housings and the brake drum bushings. Both brake drums where also quite worn. The brake bands where also worn down to the rivets. I was lucky and was able to find most of the parts either NOS or serviceable used parts, but it did take a few years. One part I could not find where the planet gear bushings. After trying to adapt standard metric split bushings which didn't work as I had hoped, I gave up and ordered the drawings for the bushings from the museum. And CNC machined some bushings out of the correct bushing material. I could not cut the oil grooves in the CNC lathe so I did those manually. I took a few tries to get the everything dialed in correctly. both me and the machine😊 It was a bit tricky to not over tighten the chuck yaws and still keep the bushing from slipping in the chuck. I made my oil groove with a finer pitch then the original as I could not replicate the dimples. I hope that will help with the oil retention. After milling the slot I got a few usable bushings that where on size and within spec as per the book. I had to make the bushings at the lowest end of the id spec to get the correct oil clearance for my planet gears as they are a bit worn. New bushings installed in the the right housing. I was not able, at the time, to get a better right housing so I had a local company do a flame spray repair on the scored drum shaft and match that to the drum bushing of the the new used drum I had sourced. The left housing I was able to find a better lightly used one. The drum shaft was excellent on this one, but the planet gear bushings needed to be replaced, as they where worn over limit. The main differential all put back together. When it now came time to install the brake drum I noticed that there was to much play between the new drum and the new left housing, so I had to make a new bushing for this one as well. I used the same method as for the planet gear bushings. Only difference was that I could press in the new bushing in the drum and then chuck the drum in the lathe and cut the oil groove. I made things a lot easier. Next up was to install the NOS brake bands. I really felt bad about opening the old package. The differential is now really heavy and trying to lift it in place by hand and align the brake bands at the same time my self didn't work, I craned it in place in stead. Then the bearing caps and shims where installed back in place. I had to move all the shims from the left bearing cap over to the right cap to get the backlash within spec. I ended up at 0,007" and the book calls for 0,006-0,010". I then installed the camshafts. I used a rod through the camshaft levers to get them aligned correctly with the cams. The rear housing was then installed and then the brake band adjustment screws set as per the book. I guess that they will need some tweaking once the final drive is installed in the hull and everything is connected? New felt seals was also installed i n the rear housing. I did not take any pictures of the rebuilt of the front housing unfortunately, but all the parts in that part of the final drive was in usable condition. I also hope that all this work in rebuilding the final drive will pay off in the end. I do hope to get that finger tip steering that the weasel is supposed to have. Edited June 27 by M29C3284 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OZM29C Posted June 28 Share Posted June 28 @M29C3284 BZ on your efforts to restore the final drive.👍👍 Your excellent workmanship and attention to detail will certainly inspire others. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick Tipton Posted June 28 Share Posted June 28 As always Alexander, beautiful work! I have yet to drive the T24 with its rebuilt final drive, so I can't really report on the fingertip steering yet. There is definitely a little black magic in setting up the steering on a Weasel...but I expect that having everything back to spec is going to be a wonderful start. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M29C3284 Posted July 13 Author Share Posted July 13 (edited) A few posts back I showed the new suspension bushings and bolts I made to replace the worn out ones in the support arms. I wrote that they needed to be nitrided, well I found a semi local company that could do them and they turned out great. Will definitely use them again. New bushing installed. The rest of the suspension system could the be installed. Bogies next. Inside bearings and seals go in first. I then installed the inside wheels and shafts, followed by the spacers and shims and outer bearings to set the bearing reload. After shimming the outer wheels where removed, the bearings greased, outer seals and woodruff keys installed. And then repeat another 30 times. I was a time consuming job, to me four days to get all the bogies completed. I did also have to replace 22 bearing cups and 11 bearings that were in to bad condition to reuse. Time to get the weasel of the cart. See how well balanced it is without the engine and differential installed. With it back on its wheels the differential could be installed. Had some trouble getting the shims in, but with some persuasion i got the in. I guess the hull sides has shrunk a bit from all the welding. New front lower radiator air seal was next installed and then finally the engine and transmission was lower into place. Using the overhead crane and the engine leveler made this go very smoothly. Though I made the first big mess in the hull during the install, as I had not drained the transmission before I started tipping the engine to get the transmission under the bulkhead. Gear oil came running out of the output shaft making a big mess. Well you live and learn. Edited July 13 by M29C3284 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick Tipton Posted July 14 Share Posted July 14 Looking great my friend. You are doing beautiful work - this machine will be good as new! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronny68 Posted July 14 Share Posted July 14 (edited) 23 hours ago, M29C3284 said: A few posts back I showed the new suspension bushings and bolts I made to replace the worn out ones in the support arms. I wrote that they needed to be nitrided, well I found a semi local company that could do them and they turned out great. Will definitely use them again. New bushing installed. The rest of the suspension system could the be installed. Bogies next. Inside bearings and seals go in first. I then installed the inside wheels and shafts, followed by the spacers and shims and outer bearings to set the bearing reload. After shimming the outer wheels where removed, the bearings greased, outer seals and woodruff keys installed. And then repeat another 30 times. I was a time consuming job, to me four days to get all the bogies completed. I did also have to replace 22 bearing cups and 11 bearings that were in to bad condition to reuse. Time to get the weasel of the cart. See how well balanced it is without the engine and differential installed. With it back on its wheels the differential could be installed. Had some trouble getting the shims in, but with some persuasion i got the in. I guess the hull sides has shrunk a bit from all the welding. New front lower radiator air seal was next installed and then finally the engine and transmission was lower into place. Using the overhead crane and the engine leveler made this go very smoothly. Though I made the first big mess in the hull during the install, as I had not drained the transmission before I started tipping the engine to get the transmission under the bulkhead. Gear oil came running out of the output shaft making a big mess. Well you live and learn. "New front lower radiator air seal was next installed and then finally the engine and transmission was lower into place." Did you make the air seal yourself or....? Edited July 14 by Ronny68 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M29C3284 Posted July 14 Author Share Posted July 14 @Ronny68 Yes I did. I was lucky that the old seal was still intact so I could use it as a pattern. I made the new one from this material https://www.steelerubber.com/masticated-rubber-sheet-70-0645-45 I can post the drawing/sketch I made of the the old seal if anybody needs it? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darth_kitten Posted July 14 Share Posted July 14 4 minutes ago, M29C3284 said: @Ronny68 Yes I did. I was lucky that the old seal was still intact so I could use it as a pattern. I made the new one from this material https://www.steelerubber.com/masticated-rubber-sheet-70-0645-45 I can post the drawing/sketch I made of the the old seal if anybody needs it? That would be great if you could. I'm to the point of needing to replace. The metal part of this was missing from mine completely. I should be able to replicate that easy enough, but the rubber drawing would be most helpful. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronny68 Posted July 14 Share Posted July 14 1 hour ago, M29C3284 said: @Ronny68 Yes I did. I was lucky that the old seal was still intact so I could use it as a pattern. I made the new one from this material https://www.steelerubber.com/masticated-rubber-sheet-70-0645-45 I can post the drawing/sketch I made of the the old seal if anybody needs it? Yes please! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M29C3284 Posted July 15 Author Share Posted July 15 @Ronny68 @darth_kittenHere you go.Studebaker T24 M29 M29C Weasel - Deflector radiator air lower.pdf 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronny68 Posted July 15 Share Posted July 15 2 hours ago, M29C3284 said: @Ronny68 @darth_kittenHere you go.Studebaker T24 M29 M29C Weasel - Deflector radiator air lower.pdf Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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