OZM29C

I have saved a number of photos that show the different colour schemes that weasels have been painted over the years. The first photo is a weasel used in Task Force Frost

That would be a great idea.

Here is a modern equivalent of the gasket identified as item 'J' in the parts breakdown below.

I decided to run a dry element air cleaner in my weasel. There are numerous ways to convert the standard weasel oil bath air cleaner but this is how I did it. The replacement air filter element part number is: Wix 42036 & Napa 2036 Air Filter Bottom Plate - Dry Air Cleaner Mod.pdf Top Plate - Dry Air Cleaner Mod.pdf

Invariably the four track apron braces are either rusted beyond repair or are simply missing altogether. Fortunately I had a corroded sample track apron brace and a drawing to make a new set. Hopefully the photos and information below will be of assistance. 953890 953891 - Brace track apron to hull.pdf Seamless tubing.pdf

Jesse, this is the only photo I have showing the area in question. So what you are saying is that the fan shroud or just the fan goes close to touching the universal joint.

What I failed to mention was that the new replacement stainless steel shaft collar I made has an interference fit into the water pump housing. I am not relying on the Armstrong A12 epoxy to hold the collar in place. The epoxy is just there for added strength.

Snake River 4 x 4 used to do these bands; http://www.snakeriver4x4.com/forsale.php

As the title says, the bearing you need for your Capstan winch drive pulley is a FAFNIR KF10 Bearing. I found a replacement bearing for my winch pulley from this company; https://www.mmbbearings.net/

I rebuilt my fuel pump using an FPA-182 Fuel pump kit from this company. The stainless steel socket head retaining screws show in the photos were not part of the kit. http://www.then-now-auto.com/product/fpa182-fuel-pump-kit/

Look carefully at the first photo and you can see why my water pump had seen better days in and around the mechanical seal. As weasel water pumps are made of 'Unobtanium' I had to machine and fit a new 316 Stainless steel seal collar to the seal . The photos better show how this was done. I also had to replace the water pump bearing. I was unable to source a NOS or a 'drop in' replacement bearing so I opted to machine to size a generic after market bearing. See attached dimensions PDF The bearing is of Chinese manufacture but it was all that was available.Water_pump_integral_shaft_bearings.pdf A fellow from the UK kindly sent me another hard to find part, namely the water pump bearing retainer clip. Water pump bearing.pdf I am please to say that the water pump repairs were 100% successful.

Rather than lumping my M29C weasel restoration into a single topic, I will post multiple topics to make it easier to view and comment on. I picked up a set of return rollers that already had new rubber on them. I got them from a cache of Spare parts that came out of Antarctica (another story) back in the 90's. First photo show me sorting through just one of the many parts bins. Over the years and spending a lot of time and $$$$ I assembled enough NOS spares to finally refurbish my return rollers. Second Photo. The third and fourth photo shows what can happen to NOS parts when stored for many years. In this case the end was almost corroded away. I have kept this shaft as a spare but fortunately I had another return roller shaft to replace the corroded/damaged shaft. I had noticed that the majority of the ex Antarctic return rollers had been retrofitted with Bronze bushings in lieu of the OEM needle rollers. In view that my weasel will be used in the water and the modification had well and truly proved itself in Antarctica, I machined and fitted new bronze bushings to my return rollers. I was able to fit a longer bushing to one side of the roller to better carry the load. After cleaning the grease nipple thread followed by bead blasting and etch priming, I was able to put together the return roller assembly ready for a final coat of paint. A friend of mine owns a CNC paper cutting machine that came in handy to cut new gaskets. See PDF Cheers JW Return roller gasket.pdf

Jesse, BZ on your work. Can I make one suggestion. To improve the longevity of the winch drive universal joints I have modified my winch drive universal joints and retrofitted Lovejoy Rubber boots. To ensure that the rubber boots are secured in place I had to machine a small groove into the universal joint. Perhaps you could machine the grooves in your universal joints prior to assembly. That way it is a straight forward job to retrofit the rubber boots at any time in the future. BTW OEM Lovejoy universal joints do have this groove machined into them. Pictures below better tell the story. Cheers

I am finished, my part of the restoration is done. Here is a youtube video of it today

Test fitting and getting closer to the finish

There does not seem to be an end to the work

I had to machine a new hull plug receptacle.

Now to deal with the front panel work

Filling in the sides and checking the muffler etc for fit

Working under the sponsons, repairing stripped threads in the lower hull and more finishing work.

More hull work but it looks much better than before. The big piece of channel in the last photo is to hold the two sections in alignment for welding.

Now came the time to marry the donor sponsons and red weasel hull to what was left of the T24 hull. Again hours of amusing fun.

And more hull repair work

Continuing on with the lower front hull repairs

Now repairs to the lower front of the hull