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OZM29C

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Everything posted by OZM29C

  1. I used the water ejectors as templates to weld in place the previously fabricated lower section of the tank.
  2. Next item on the agenda was to weld back in place the lower shelf and then start the repairs to the lower tank areas.
  3. As the telemarketers would say, 'But wait, there's more' 🙂 The upper mounting brackets (tank top to hull) were modified in the past using an oxy/act torch. Also the sheet metal behind the brackets had corroded as well. The pictures best describe the repairs. The blue length of RHS tube visible in some pictures was added to give more rigidity to that panel.
  4. Patrick, are you going fabricate and fit the original style T24 battery tray or stick with the duel battery tray fitted IAW with TB 9-772-FE5?
  5. Couple more photos showing the underside of the front deck
  6. I was also fabricating the external tank bracketry
  7. To give better access to the lower hull area for both cleaning and preservation, I decided to fit hand holes into the shelf.
  8. More repairs and test fitting of the Capstan Winch, surf shield and side panels
  9. I then had to painstakingly repair the overlapped edge of the upper tank
  10. I then further dismanted the tank to give me better access to the interior. Where metal was overlapped, there was rust and corrosion.
  11. I first decided to fabricate the lower section of the tank. I used zinc annealed mild steel sheet to give some resistance to corrosion
  12. Once I removed the lower skin of sheet metal the corrosion evident was a lot worse than I bargained for.
  13. What follows is the pictorial story showing 3 and 1/2 years of part time work to fully repair my front float tank. This tank was fitted to the Red Weasel my friend and I imported from Duluth Michigan in 2007. The corrosion and damage to the tank was typical of most flotation tanks found nowadays.
  14. Dan, the paint I used is an Australian made off the shelf paint that I don't think is available in the US of A. The photo above shows the paint shade as being grey but the pewter kilrust paint finish is more a blue grey. I have attached another photo of the same engine. You will see what I mean. I recently painted a GPA engine using VHT 'Ford Grey' engine enamel and it came out looking more grey than blue grey. https://www.vhtpaint.com/high-heat/vht-engine-enamel
  15. When I reconditioned my weasel suspension, the job was made a lot easier by using an 11/16" - 11 NS Thread tap to clean all of the threads. I got mine off ebay.
  16. I don't know anything about this photo showing a novel solution to the track pad problem. I saved it off the web years ago.
  17. Keep a watch to see if the final drive felt seals come onto the market. I got these from ebay years ago. I think they came from Patson's parts in Alaska????
  18. The next seal needed is the inner hub seal. Note: Knock out the old seal and Keep the OEM seal carrier. Fit the new seal into the new carrier paying particular attention to the orientation of the seal lips.
  19. When reconditioning your rear hub assembly, you will need these. First off the outer hub. The most popular seal to use is the Caterpillar seal but there is also an alternative is a National oil seal 365008 . Please be aware that the width of this seal is only 6.35mm (1/4" inch). https://autoplicity.com/2379409-national-oil-seal Federal Mogul National Oil Seals - Hub Seal Alternative.docx
  20. US Navy weasel. Note the gloss paint finish and the dent in the bow.
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