OZM29C
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Posts posted by OZM29C
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On 7/11/2022 at 7:25 AM, D.R.H. said:
My M29-C Weasel is missing the Hull Tag just above where the radio is installed. How do we figure out the number is and is anyone reproducing them?
@D.R.H.Not that I know of. Robert at Dataplates4U reproduced mine but I am led to believe that nowadays he does not reproduce the hull tag. Having said that,
It might be worth again asking the question of Robert. I must admit he did an excellent job on my hull tags. Not quite concourse but better than no hull tag.
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The silver paint is just a single pack aluminium epoxy paint that I used to preserve the inner surfaces that were exposed during the repairs. I only brushed it on as no one will ever see it once the hull was fully repaired. The black colour is just a phosphoric acid based rust inhibitor.
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@D.R.H. Dave, thanks for the BZ 👍, my weasel hull was in a similar condition to yours so just posting a few more photos showing how I repaired the 'forward of the bulkhead' sponsons in my hull. Like you I chose to repair the sponsons in the hull. The repair sections are made form heavier gauge metal. I think that OEM was 1.2mm but I used 1.6mm. Easier to weld the thicker metal and also the thicker shett is less prone to deforming from heat.
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@D.R.H.Saw your Video on receiving Rob's great hat channel kit. I also noted the condition of your sponsons. Not sure what repair method you are going to employ to repair your sponsons but I repaired a T24 hull by assembling the replacement sponsons off vehicle and then fitted the newly made sponsons into the hull later. Might be worth considering as it is a damn sight easier to work on the sponsons away from the hull. Just a thought😀 Photos below for reference.
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11 hours ago, Dan Klatt said:
Do you have any phone numbers or email. I cant seem to find any.
I just googled LAR, https://larexperts.com/ still there but I don't have Russ or Tom Morgans contact details. Perhaps a question for the Weasel FB group.
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@Dan Klatt Try Russ or Tom Morgan over in Colorado or Mike Howard at Liberty Auto Restorations in Iowa.
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@D.R.H.Whatever you do DRH, don't discard or sell the Crankshaft. My engine rebuilder rejected 5 donor crankshafts for my engine rebuild before I managed to get a NOS Crankshaft from Norway. All of the rejected crankshafts had hairline cracks in them. I would recommend to any weasel owner out there who for whatever reason has their Crankshaft out, to go to the added expense of having their Crankshafts thoroughly crack tested.
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Here is another photo for future reference. It shows the contents of an Arctic Heater Kit. @Patrick TiptonPatrick I could not find this photo using the search function however if the photo has been posted previously, please delete this post. The manual has already been uploaded on this forum.
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2 hours ago, Patrick Tipton said:
Don't you hate that🤣 All of that money and beautiful work and no one else gets to enjoy it!
@Patrick TiptonEspecially when I have driven a grand total of 28miles in the last year. Take a lot of convincing that I got value for money by spending over $5 grand having the motor rebuilt. 🤑🤑🤑
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3 minutes ago, Patrick Tipton said:
Most of the late rebuild engines didn't see that much use.....depending on your budget and your desires, you might get a little lucky.
Cheers!
@Patrick TiptonSo true Patrick. My engine was badly corroded in way of the cylinders and valves that necessitated a good deal of metal surgery.
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21 minutes ago, D.R.H. said:
Right You are Oz. I remember seeing these two photos a little while back. I'm not entirely sure what I'm going to do right now, I do have a good take out engine that still makes on average 100 lbs. p.s.i. compression across all 6 cyls. It needs to be cleaned and painted though. What color is that that You used on Your engine?
@D.R.H.The colour is 'Pewter'. It is a commercially available industrial paint here in Oz. The engine rebuilder paints all of his reconditioned GPW engines in that same colour. I have installed the engine as is. As you know there is not much to be see of the engine when its tucked away down in the lower hull.
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3 hours ago, D.R.H. said:
I am pooped out boys. I pulled the stuck engine out of my M-29C yesterday and boy, WHAT A TASK. I found the serial number on the boss just behind the water pump adapter. It is T24 8619. What can the engine guru's tell me about this. Thanks. Dave.
Also, it was rebuilt in Norway in 1962 with the cylinders being .040" over stock bore. Is it possible to clean up the cylinder to .050" with out running into overheating problems?
@D.R.H.Just did a random search of Studebaker parts vendors and it appears that 0.060" OS pistons are available, however can I suggest that you should seek advice from a reputable Engine reconditioning shop on what is the best option for your motor. In my case, the engine had sleeves fitted that returned the motor back to a standard bore. One small tip I got from my engine rebuilder was to let them assemble the motor. That way they can ensure that all fits, tolerances and clearances are correct. I understand that others do prefer to do their own assembly work but in the overall scheme of things, the assembly cost is only a fraction of the total engine reconditioning cost. In my case I chose to have the engine assembled in the shop. I received a turn key engine from them with a Workmanship Warranty. Piece of mind when I had spent over $5000 in total on the engine.
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@Patrick TiptonPatrick, I do agree with your initial report that more testing needs to follow. There appears to be a lot more vibration for want of a better word when comparing the prototype French track with your OEM track. It appears that the vibration is coming from both the bogey wheels falling into the belt cavity between the two grousers and the timing between the track sprocket and the track appears to be not quite right. Having said that, the track does need to be tensioned so that might help to alleviate some of those problems. Look forward to seeing more progress reports.
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@dragon Sorry can't help with the fuel sender unit but you might want to try Brian Asbury in Canada for spotlight parts. He may still have some stock. Details attached.
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Finally I had to drill a hole in the instrument panel to allow the accelerator connection rod to pass through. I got the hole location a bit off centre so I had to elongate the hole. The modified accelerator assembly works great. Cheers. JW
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Here you can see the linkage rod cover plate fitted to the instrument panel
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The next photo shows the cut-out made in the instrument panel and the modified bell crank support. The OEM bell crank is re-used in this mod. Disregard the accelerator return spring and bracket. I relocated these for ease of access.
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The next photo shows the cut-out made in the ventilator lid.
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Second photo partially shows the cut-out that I have made in the drivers side air deflector panel and the linkage rod.
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A Weasel owner over on the Weasel FB forum asked for some photos of the Accelerator mod that I have retrofitted to my weasel. I thought that I would capture the information here on this forum first in the hope that future weasel restorers can use this information as a reference. The first photo shows a comparison between a modified accelerator pedal and an OEM accelerator pedal. Top pedal is OEM, bottom pedal has been modified. I have also posted a copy of the MWO that came with my mod kit.
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@Beepbeep@42rocker As promised, please find attached a scan of the Norwegian track sprocket drawing. I must apologise in having to scan the drawing over two pages. It was just too big for my A3 sized scanner. All of the dimensions are in metric but having said that if you need to convert back to the old imperial units (albeit decimal units) then divide the metric dimension by 25.4. 25.4mm = 1 inch. Cheers.
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9 hours ago, Beepbeep said:
@OZM29C did you find the original tooth profile? I'm thinking of getting my old sprockets repaired and it would be good to know what profile I'm aiming for
@BeepbeepI did indeed. I can scan it for you on Tuesday. I will have to use my scanner at work as the drawing is way bigger than my A4 sized scanner here at home.
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@rml1708Gary Szechy from Gary's Bunker https://www.garysbunker.com/product-category/m29-parts/ did manufacture a very limited production run of the short wiper link.
It would be worth asking the question to see if Gary could again reproduce this short wiper arm?
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@Dake20I reckon that if you copy the snake river 4x4 outer bands, that will see you up and mobile in no time flat.
https://snakeriver4x4.com/weasel-parts
BTW Snake River don't make the bands any more
Is anyone reproducing Hull Tags?
in Headquarters
Posted
@D.R.H. I will let you in on a little secret. I had to do the same thing and do a guestimate on my hull number. My hull number is very close as Jim Gilmore had the sister weasel to mine. One ORD number different. Jim like James D is very knowledgeable on weasel serial numbers and suggested a close if not actual hull number for my weasel.