OZM29C
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Posts posted by OZM29C
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@aktrapperbrad Another thing that comes to mind when re assembling the final drive is to pay very particular attention to 'Timing' the Brake band actuating shaft to the brake band cam. Don't assume that the timing was correct when you dismantled the final drive. There is a full explanation on how to carry out this task in the TM. @Patrick Tipton Contact Patrick if you don't have the TM as he can (as in my case) supply an excellent reproduction of the relevant TM. Cheers.
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On 7/28/2023 at 10:50 PM, Patrick Tipton said:
You are a good man John @OZM29C. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and supporting this community!
No worries @Patrick Tipton Patrick. I removed myself from the FB weasel forums as I received some undeserved criticism when responding to a post there so this forum is my only outlet nowadays to share weasel restoration knowledge. Any updates on the T24 restoration although I know that you have been busy on a myriad of other projects.
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@aktrapperbradOne small but very important point to consider when servicing the final drive is to use the correct oil as specified in the TM. In my case I used a Castrol product, see attachment. The key point out of the brochure is 'Monograde Low Detergent' API SB oil. I think I put about 7 litres into the final drive. On a side note, I installed a removable plate on the underside of the hull to facilitate an easier method of draining the final drive oil. Gary Setcy's Final drive article is well worth reading. I have attached it below for you.
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Hmmm, the photos are out of sequence but you get the picture😂😂
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One of the problems to contend with when making a turn at high speed with the LAR tracks is the possibility of a sprocket tooth jumping and engaging the track between the grousers. Photo 1 shows the problem. Photo 2 shows the simple ‘Special tool’ I use to reset the track. Photo 3 shows the tool set up ready to go. Video 4 shows how the sprocket tooth is reset in the LAR track. Unfortunately my
son cut the video short but photo 5 shows the sprocket and track restored.-
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@Pips_Blaauw Here are some detailed photos of the various parts that you will need to find or fabricate for your rudder set up. Note that the outer rear stretcher pocket is not parallel to the outside of the float tank.
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@F-D Zernia Fred, have your tiller arms been reinforced as per the attached TB?
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@F-D Zernia 👍👍 If you really want to go over the top with this restoration, don't forget to include the little guide ring for your HT wires 😄
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@Pips_Blaauw If you are going to install a rear marker lamp, you will need to make or find the riser conduit. Attached is a drawing to help you.
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@Pips_Blaauw BZ for your ongoing efforts Pips👌 You are creating a weasel float kit from nothing. All the more reason that you will thoroughly enjoy taking your weasel into the water for some fun. BTW weasels in the water are not the best of watercraft, especially when trying to manoeuvre. To quote @Brock , you need to 'Will' a weasel in the water to get it to drive in the direction you need to go 😄 As added encouragement, attached is a video of my weasel at its first launch.
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On 6/26/2023 at 4:45 AM, F-D Zernia said:
I have been in engine mode lately and have a question that I’ve yet to see asked. This pertains to the distributor bore.
Inside the engine block is a small seal at the base of the bore for the shaft that fits into the oil pump tang to drive the distributor gear. I have sourced a seal but would like to know how much oil it holds back. This should keep oil in the chamber for the distributor gears or does it. The small tin cover doesn’t seem that strong to hold oil pressure.
Do we grease the distributor gears or depend on oil pressure to lubricate them. This may be some kind of a splash system to spray oil on the shaft and gears. I cannot find an explanation for its purpose. The Studebaker cars are not the same so not much to compare to there.
I ask because I have learned it is important where restrictors need to be placed in the oil system to prevent low oil pressure to the cam and bearings. This may be one of those important restrictions.
Thank youFred
@F-D Zernia The oil seal in question does indeed prevent oil migrating from the crankcase into the distributor shaft chamber. The angle drive bevel gears are lubricated with a good quality high temperature bearing grease. Don't forget to cut a new sealing gasket for the angle drive inspection cover. Finally don't forget to replace the old cork seals that seal both the angle drive and distributor from the elements. Attached is a photo of a modern drop in seal that should be readily available from a reputable bearing/seal service centre.
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@Pips_Blaauw Any updates Pips?
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@Pips_Blaauw Do you have the angled strips of metal that go between the hull and front float tank? There are two pieces.
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@Pips_Blaauw Did you manage to find any of the special flat washers that help to secure the float tank to the hull? If not, attached is a reference drawing for you. This link takes you to the other washers I used to secure the water ejectors and other hardware to the float tank; https://www.mcmaster.com/98363A113/ See attached photo.
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@Pips_Blaauw We all make 'Errors of Judgement'. 😁 Don't forget to make allowance for the under guard plate that attaches to the tank. The attached photos tell the story on how I made my plate. The OEM plate was originally part of the front float tank. The front tank is much easier to manoeuvre around with a separate guard plate.
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@Pips_Blaauw Looking good. Well done👍 Can I ask what the recesses are for. Please see the attached photo. This area is normally smooth. See second photo. Thanks to a fellow weasel owner, I was able to secure a few tubes of Alumilastic to seal my tank. Great stuff and its OEM.
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One step forward, two steps backwards 😢😢 After machining the new spacer washer, I did a test fit on a spare front axle shaft. To my surprise (as you can see in the photo), it was a rattling good fit. My first thought was that I had made a mistake converting the old imperial dimensions into metric however after double checking, all conversions were spot on. The TB calls for an inside diameter of 57.15mm (2.250"inches) and the axle shaft Outside diameter measures 53.52mm (2.107"inches). That gives a clearance of 3.63mm (0.1425"inches). I can only assume that this is a typo mistake in the TB as I can see no reason to specify such a large clearance. Back to the lathe now to machine a replacement spacer washer.
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@Jesse Browning Jesse, you have put forward an interesting aspect to your insurance woes. I hope that you have agreed on a realistic replacement value for your weasel in the event of a total write off. As a comparison, here in Oz my full comprehensive annual premium is $251.90 ($167.52USD) and my weasel is insured for a replacement value of $90,000AUD ($60,000 USD). Having said that, this policy only covers land use only. I, in conjunction with the GPA owners here in Oz have found that Marine insurance is impossible to find. My weasel being a tracked vehicle presented no barriers to insurance. Same goes for the weasel being Left hand drive. Cheers.
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2 hours ago, Jesse Browning said:
The only suggestion I would have is to make the spacer in two pieces that can be installed with out removing the track.
@Jesse Browning Thanks Jesse for your welcome comment. I did indeed give some thought to machining a split spacer washer however I do need to remove the drivers side idler arm in order to sort a problem with the idler arm itself. When I grease the idler arm, grease exits from under the idler arm spring where the spring seats on the idler arm itself. I suspect that the drilled hole in the idler arm that locates the spring has been either drilled too deep or has corroded allowing grease to escape and in turn not allowing full lubrication of both idler arm bushings.
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As highlighted in the attached TB, my weasel also has a tendency to drift to the right when travelling a straight path. This drift necessitates the constant application of the left tiller to bring the weasel back on track. I am very confident that I don't have any underlying problems that could contribute to this drift so I thought that I would detail the corrective action taken as per the TB to alleviate this problem. Early days yet though. I have all but finished machining a brass spacer washer. The TB gives an option to fit one of three spacer washer thickness's. After some thought I have decided to try the thickest 3/8"inch/9.52mm washer first. If an over correction of the drift is observed then I can remove the spacer washer and machine it down further to a smaller thickness. The attached photo shows the spacer washer being machined. I would appreciate any feedback if other weasel owners here have found such spacer washers fitted to their weasels and more importantly what washer thickness was fitted. Stay tuned.
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@Patrick Tipton That's what it's about Patrick, having fun. 😀 Well done👍. I found that I was unable to emulate the OEM tension spec on my LAR track. If the LAR track is too loose though, it will certainly jump sprocket teeth.
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@HeepjeepI have taken two photos of my set up for you. Let me know if you need any further information. Cheers
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Another email from a different email address this morning!
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Restoring M29C3284
in Headquarters
Posted
A work of art. Well done. Its more fun putting a weasel together as opposed to just slogging it out doing sheet metal work. Look forward to future reports.