OZM29C
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Posts posted by OZM29C
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@Patrick Tipton Patrick one thing for sure is that I am glad that I have an M29C. Years ago I had to remove what was left of a Front Axle cross shaft in a T24 and it certainly was a character building job in view that the shafts were originally welded in position. I will keep you posted on what the final choice of material will be for the cross shaft.
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@Patrick TiptonPatrick, my current line of thinking is to leave my NOS front cross tube axle in its cosmoline wrapping and in turn machine a more robust front cross tube axle. I created a drawing awhile back but I need to again check the 'as measured' dimensions. I have attached the drawing below for reference.
I am leaning towards machining the new shaft out of Hollow Bar 4140 but it will depend on what material is available at the time. I don't want to fit a solid axle to save weight but having said that I do want a more robust hollow bar than OEM.
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@Jesse Browning Thanks Jesse 👍 Photos up front make it a lot easier for others to view. Cheers
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I took the Weasel into the local Anzac day parade last Thursday ably assisted by my wife and granddaughter who were the flag bearers. All went well however it was also a good opportunity to test the adjustments I had made previously to the passenger side bogey arm shims. I was hoping that this adjustments would help to correct the weasel drifting to the right and more importantly stop the metal shaving on the passenger side track.
Unfortunately the problems were still evident during and after the parade. When I got home I set up a string line between the front idler wheel and rear drive wheel and low and behold, I found my problem. The front cross tube axle was bent. String lines don't lie. Its hard to see in the photo but the trailing edge of the front idler wheel is bent back by 19mm/3/4".
I have no idea how and when the tube was bent but I suspect that it was early in the peace as this problem has been evident for a few years now. I do drive the weasel with respect to the suspension and I just wonder if the hot metal spraying process used on the shaft changed the structure of the metal?????? I do believe that it was a known problem for OEM front cross tube axles to bend. Now comes the big job of removing the front cross tube axle and replacing it with either a NOS replacement that I have in stock or better still a more robust heavy duty cross tube axle that I would have to machine.
More weasel fun 😂
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Better than new👍
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@Patrick Tipton You are right about not being a problem in a cooler climate. My weasel here when driving in hotter weather fries my leg, dehydrates me, there is good chance of sunburn which all in turn limits the time I can drive it. BTW I have it on my bucket list to finally see and touch snow. Hopefully that will happen when we cruise Alaska next year. The air vent next to my foot is permanently shut. Unfortunately the hot air exits the engine compartment through a rectangular hole cut in the dashboard (under the linkage cover in question) to accommodate the modified accelerator linkage. I am going to see if there is a thin section insulating board available.
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Fellows,
Take a look at the photo in the drop box link below. I have circled an area on the accelerator linkage cover that needs to be insulated to prevent my lower leg being burnt from the heat radiating out of the engine compartment. Unfortunately there is not a lot of room to move my lower leg to avoid the hot spot and in turn this problem dictates how long I can drive the weasel for. Moving the steering tiller is not an option as my leg tends to rest on this accelerator linkage cover when mobile. I am sure that there must be some thin insulating material out there. Your thoughts are welcomed. Cheers.
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@Bravo28 BZ on your efforts so far. Getting the engine to run on the test stand is a major milestone completed. Now unfortunately you have the rest of the restoration to complete before getting to enjoy your Weasel 😪 I think the old saying 'Patience young grasshopper, patience' is worth a mention here. 😁
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Thanks again Patrick @Patrick Tipton Here is the last video that I took down there.
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With Patrick's @Patrick Tipton help, Lets see if this link works;
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I’ll have to ask @Patrick Tipton Patrick how to post more videos as the message I keep getting is file too large
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Hopefully the video links will work.
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A couple of weeks back I took the weasel down to the Corowa Military Vehicle meet here in Australia. It is the biggest gathering of MVs here in Oz attracting over 230 vehicles this year. Unfortunately I missed the street parade but part I participated in most other activities. The weasel attracted a lot of interest with having to answer questions like does it float (yes I know!), where is the propeller and what type of guns did it have. Anyway I ticked off one of my weasel to do list items, driving into a servo and filling the tank with petrol. I also took the weasel swimming in the lagoon but not in the river proper as the current was way too strong. I caught up with a lot of like minded MV owners but the 12 hour 900km one way trips trip in the truck were tedious. He is a link to the event https://www.corowaswim-in.org and https://www.facebook.com/corowaswimin?mibextid=dGKdO6
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@Military Track SupplyBZ to you guys in making this long held Weasel restoration dream come to fruition. Over the years I have seen a number attempts by like minded entrepreneurs to re-manufacture replacement OEM style track bands. Although your track bands will be a huge step forward, replacement track bands do need to be complimented with new manufactured Grouser plates. Its certainly a lottery nowadays to assume that 80 year old OEM grouser plates will still stand up to the rigours of Weasel driving and manoeuvring. Like your Halftrack tracks on offer, I would hope to see a plan put in place to offer a full replacement track but like everything nowadays I understand that cost will be the driving factor.
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@Patrick Tipton BZ Patrick 👍 Seems like you are a Champion engine whisperer 😂
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@Darryl You might have to replace the ignition distributor drive shaft oil seal, part number SD905152, that is located within the cylinder block.
Unfortunately I don't have the modern CR part number.
Having said that, this may help.
The dimensions of the said seal are as follows;
OD 1.064" - 1.068"
Shaft Dia 0.4895" - 0.4905"
Width 3/8"
Manufacturer - Chicargo Rawhide
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@Darryl I have posted this information in other posts in this forum but I think that the information below will be relevant to your post as well. When you re-assemble your distributor and angle drive, you will need to more than likely replace the old cork seals. Below is a picture of a modern equivalent that I used in my weasel. I got these from Fluid Seals and Packing in Sydney but I am sure that they would be available over your way.
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On 3/3/2024 at 8:31 AM, Darryl said:
Out of interest, what sort of CCA do you guys look for in a Weasel battery?
@Darryl I just used a standard N70ZZ(I think) 4wd battery available from any reputable aftermarket accessories store. I can check the CCA if you need that info. I did slightly modify the repo battery retaining clamp to fit a modern battery. BTW, I am taking my weasel down to Corowa next week so if you are coming over to Oz for that get together, please make a point of introducing yourself?
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@jdikemanThe transmission synchronisers were doing their job. Can you share some happy snaps?
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@Bravo28 This weasel problem of yours will soon pass into your repertoire of tall stories that will most certainly be shared over a cold beer with like minded friends. BZ on your efforts to make sure that the job is done right the first time.
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@Patrick Tipton Well done again Patrick👍 I would consider installing the final drive as a Character Building’ job. The new felt seals that I had installed in my final drive housing proved to be a dog of a job to get the outer tubes (trumpets) in. Did you fit the 1/2” copper gaskets to the trumpet retaining bolts/nuts? I also had to replace the factory shims that took up the excess clearance between the hull and final drive. Did you install post photo the final drive breather canister that sits atop the final drive?
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@Patrick Tipton Like a bought one Patrick. Well done 👍 In my case I followed the brake band set up instructions in the manual to a tee. Particularly the cam set up although I must admit that I made a small error of judgement in the initial set up but that was easily sorted. The only other bit of advice that I could offer is to ensure that you do indeed use the correct grade of oil in the final drive. In my case I used a Castrol product but I am sure that there are plenty of alternatives available.
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On 2/4/2024 at 5:54 AM, Bravo28 said:
Visited machine shop and they actually had this. Barely noticeable, but would shiny element be the plug?
Recommended lubricate to get pump coated perhaps to create some pressure within galleries? I think I messed up by not initially priming the pump. Would I be able to correct that as it sits?
Owner agreed to swing by and take a look.
@Bravo28 You are a brave man by choosing to run a phenolic camshaft timing gear. Might I suggest that you take the opportunity to change out to an after market Aluminium timing gear. One of forum members @Byron came to grief after a short time with a phenolic NOS camshaft timing gear having been stripped of its drive teeth. At this point of time I just can't find @Byron's report on this disaster.
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Restoring M29C3284
in Headquarters
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@Patrick Tipton@M29C3284 Just to be certain, is this the resistor that you need a resistance reading from? Cheers