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OZM29C

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Posts posted by OZM29C

    LAR suspicious email

    in Headquarters

    Posted

     

    Got this unusual email below with a very suspicious link embedded in the email. I have deleted the link in order to safely share the email. I suspect that this is a fishing style of email.

    Anyway just putting it out there. Cheers

     

     

    Hello There,

    Please see the document within the u r l below.

    (Suspicious link located here)


    Enjoy a nice working day!

     

    Hello Everyone,

     

    The decision has been made to start the process to do another, and possibly the last, run of Liberty Weasel Track.  If you are interested in purchasing a set of track or know of someone that has talked about it, now is the time to place your order.   The cost is $12,000 and we require 50% down at the time you place your order with the balance plus the cost of shipping to be paid before they are shipped to you.  We would like to receive your order by November 10th so that we can get all of the different parts on order and use the slower winter months as assembly time.   There will be a 5-6 month time frame from the time we get everything ordered from our suppliers until we have everything in house and the track assembled and ready for you.

     

    We would appreciate your help in spreading the word to your fellow weasel enthusiasts that the Liberty Weasel Track will be available again and not to delay if interested in a set of track.   I want to stress that there will be a limited number of track available and this will be the last time they will be available until who knows when.  To place your order call Liberty Auto Restoration at 712-764-2170 on Monday-Friday.    Thank you.

     

    Barb Smith

    Office Manager

    Liberty Auto Restoration

    Elk Horn, IA

    Headlight Bucket

    in Headquarters

    Posted

    See if you can spot the difference?

    One headlight bucket is from a Weasel, the other is from an MB/GPW Jeep.

    For all intensive purposes they are identical apart from one small feature.

     

    IMG_7941.JPG

    • Like 1

    NOS Marker Lamp

    in Headquarters

    Posted

    Over in the Weasel FB group there was some discussion on marker lamps and I feel that the reference information on Marker lamps should also be captured here as well.  I have posted the following photos before within a previous thread however I believe that this information now deserves to be in a standalone thread for future reference.

    The photos show a NOS marker lamp that I had just removed from its original packing box.

     

    Marker Light 001.jpg

    Marker Light 003.jpg

    Marker Light 005.jpg

    Marker Light 007.jpg

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1

    Steering Tips and Tricks

    in Headquarters

    Posted

    18 hours ago, Patrick Tipton said:

    The correct adjustment of the Weasel's steering system seems to be a bit of a mystery.  I have driven Weasels with fingertip steering and then you see so many machines with broken or reinforced steering levers because it takes so much pressure to make them turn.  The big question is why.

    The steering system is pretty Rube Goldberg and most of the levers/cross shafts etc. are running steel against steel with no bushings and probably very little lubrication.  The early steering levers had no means of lubrication - so they received whatever (probably a light coat of oil given their intended use) and that was that. 

    The final drive is a pretty simple "wet clutch" style differential with brake bands to drive more power to one track or the other - interestingly made by Clark Equipment - who also made the airborne dozer. There are only three adjustments - the large "wing" nuts that allow the operator to tighten the bands and then two set screws on each band that are used to help place the brake band in the correct position around the brake drum.

    I have been playing around with my M29 and the steering a lot.  I have read and reread the manuals and followed the instructions closely to some success.

    My M29 will turn to the right with very little pressure.  It does not like turning to the left.  I am developing my theories, but the goal of this this thread to to collect best practices and write an article that will be pinned so we can guarantee fingertip control of our machines.

    Please share your experience.

    @Patrick TiptonFurther to your learned comments I’d like to add some more thoughts on this subject. I think it’s paramount that the correct grade of oil is used in the final drive. In my case I use this particular oil. https://classicoilsshop.co.uk/castrol-classic-xl30

    My final drive steers well and that’s with the flotation gear fitted. Another consideration is the condition of the brake bands and their associated brake drums. I would consider it mandatory to do a full internal inspection of the final drive before putting it into use. A lot can happen in 75 years. The final drive has to be in optimum condition to ensure accurate adjustment of the said assemblies. Another observation to consider is the type of surface that a weasel is being asked to steer/turn on. Mown grass is very difficult to turn on, a weasel will labour considerably when turning on grass however loose gravel, sealed roads or sand (can’t offer any advice on snow though) offers very responsive steering. Correct Track tension is important as are the steering linkage adjustments. Last but not least driving/ steering technique is important. 

    • Like 2

    All Things Floater

    in Headquarters

    Posted

    27 minutes ago, Pips_Blaauw said:

    Thanks! And thanks for the great pictures to!! They certainly are of good use. And you are correct about the arm length. We let them as long as we could, since we do don't have the mechanism finalized yet. Once we can mount the rudders on the floater, we will cut the arms to the exact length that they need to be. Measuring the arm was of no use, since ours will be slightly different from the original...

    @Pips_Blaauw 👍Feel free to ask me for dimensions. With my floater weasel at home I can grab a tape measure and check measurements for you. Here is some more reference information. Cheers

    Drivers side.jpg

    Passenger side.jpg

    Rudder Pin as Measured.pdf

    The Track Thread

    in Headquarters

    Posted

    5 hours ago, Reamer said:

    Wow! so the wire rope was wrapped around the band and then anchored at both ends? Cool! What are your thoughts of "sandwiching" this in some conveyor belting? 

     

    @Reamer Mate, I am not a learned weasel track scholar in regards to offering technical advice on alternative track repair methods. Many years ago I went through the trials and tribulations on how I should repair my old tracks and after procrastinating about the subject for many years I just decided to just bite the bullet and purchase a set of new LAR tracks. I am not advocating that this is the right decision for you, but in my case it saved me many years of hard work. My time was better spend on the other aspects of my restoration.

    The Track Thread

    in Headquarters

    Posted

    4 hours ago, Reamer said:

    So has anyone tried making the main bands with conveyor belt material, What grade would be needed that can handle the stress and shear?

    How about a process to weld the steel cable into a loop?

    Ron

    @ReamerYour best bet would be to have a look at how Snake River 4 x 4 constructed his track bands. https://snakeriver4x4.com/weasel-parts

    There is some good information there. BTW he does not manufacture the track band kits any more.

    In the drawing below, you can see that the reinforcing cable was not welded in the OEM style track bands.

    nordoc15.jpg

    The Track Thread

    in Headquarters

    Posted

    @Patrick Tipton Congratulation Patrick on what I would consider is a very good choice of track system. The LAR track as you know was developed from the Ambilary track system that was fitted to a lot of weasels operating in Antarctica. A very hostile environment indeed. See attached photo of an EPF weasel. Like you I procrastinated for years on how I would put a set of reliable tracks on my weasel. Fortunately the LAR track came available and I too cleaned out and sold the remains of six MB?GPW Jeep projects that in turn paid for both the purchase of the tracks and more importantly the shipping. I have it on good advice from Brock J. that the OEM sprockets will run fine with these tracks but if you plan to fit the now defunct LAR sprockets, then you will need to make some modifications to them to make them work. As for tensioning the tracks, I have only had to re-tension my track after a few miles of break in driving. I found that a good indicator that your tension s right is when the track does not jump the sprocket during a hard turn. I was unable to emulate the OEM track tension specified in the TM; ie lifting the rear bogey wheels 2"/50mm off the ground. Rick W has put over 800 hard miles on his LAR tracks so I am reassured that the LAR track is durable.

    DSCN0734.JPG

    WTB M29 clutch cable

    in Buy, Sell, Trade

    1943 T-24 Restoration Thread

    in Headquarters

    Posted

    On 9/9/2022 at 11:31 PM, Patrick Tipton said:

    Ha!  I do have a good excuse - got stuck editing the new GPW Restoration Standards and got all excited about the G503.....🤣

    As for the fiber/aluminum timing gear, I have heard mixed reviews from the suppliers here in the states.  One told me that there was a possibility that the gears were incorrectly cut and they have heard of failures.  It gives me pause because while the fiber failure is a PITA, it is not catastrophic.  The aluminum failure - very destructive.  So.....still sitting on the fence.....but leaning towards original fiber knowing that I might have to go back in.  Where did you source the aluminum gear?

    I do plan to run this engine several hours on the test stand before installation - usually these types of problems show up quickly so I will keep my fingers crossed if that is the route I end up choosing.

    Interesting about the full balance.  That type of engine work has gotten so expensive here in the States (and my machine shop is so slow) that I am not going to do it.  I am sure it would make for a nicer running engine, although the motor is very smooth running period.  My M29 motor starts and runs beautifully.  I am going to save those pennies for the wildly expensive track repairs that I face.

    Thanks for the support John!

    Cheers, Patrick

     

    @Patrick TiptonPatrick, I purchased the Aluminium timing gear from a local Studebaker Parts vendor here in Oz. He did say that all of the parts for my engine rebuild were sourced from the US of A but he did not elaborate about where his suppliers were located. All I can say is, so far so good with my Aluminium timing gear. I am not advocating that you should balance your engine, I was just passing on the advice given to me by my engine rebuilder. As he is a very good friend of mine, I am in no doubt that he did not make this recommendation to simply extract more money from me. Having said that, the only parts not replaced in my engine were the camshaft and flywheel (less ring gear). All other parts like the crankshaft, ring gear, pistons, rods, clutch, crank pulley etc were either new or NOS. I guess that in this case, it was the right call for my engine. One thing I have learned is that I needed a 'Strong' engine to power my floater. I look forward to more instalments on your Weasel restoration.

     

    What I found on a Weasel hunt

    in Headquarters

    Posted

    @aktrapperbradWhat a brilliant stash of parts that you have discovered. Thanks for sharing your story. I do hope that you will aspire to become a member of the 'Floater' Weasel fraternity😀. I believe that all parts are worth salvaging. They simply don't make these parts any more. The float tank that you have are very repairable. Well done👍

    1943 T-24 Restoration Thread

    in Headquarters

    Posted

    11 hours ago, Patrick Tipton said:

    I am a bit behind here!  I can't believe I haven't posted on this thread since March!!!

    The machine shop finally called yesterday and my engine work is finished.  This engine was rebuilt by the Norwegians - 60 over pistons and standard otherwise.  It had original babbited rod bearings. 

    The cylinders cleaned up within spec.  One cylinder has a little mark on it from sitting, but the machinist felt like it wasn't enough of an issue to sleeve it.  The block got new valve guides and we recut all of the seats.  I have NOS valves so the top end should be beautiful when reassembled. 

    One of the rod bearings had failed (can't really "spin" a babbit!) and it did some damage to the crank.  Both the mains and the rods cleaned up to .20 undersized.  I have a call into one of the Studebaker engine parts suppliers and I may end up with NOS babbit connecting rods.  I am kinda on the fence about reinstalling the early connecting rods (in lieu of the later shell style) but that is just lack of experience with babbit style connecting rods.  Babbit technology worked just fine....but different than what I am used to doing.  One plus is originality, although no one but me (and you guys) will ever know.

    I am on the fence about replacing the fiber timing gear with the aluminum style.  I know it makes sense but the purist in me grumbles a little.  The only "down" side to the aluminum is supposedly noise, but I am pretty sure no Weasel driver ever heard the difference!  

     

    11 hours ago, Patrick Tipton said:

    So, I need to get the remaining parts ordered this week and I have a couple of projects to finish this month (plus a show) and then it will be full tilt on the T24 until it is running and driving!

    Cheers.

     

    @Patrick Tipton Good to hear from you Patrick. I thought that you had been lost in the world of Jeeps 🙂 I do believe that replacing the fibre timing gear with an Aluminium gear is a no brainer. I can draw on @Byron Byron Kay's recent experience of having a fibre timing gear disintegrate after only 70 miles of driving post engine rebuild. As you quite rightly pointed out, there is no way you could honestly distinguish the difference between the two types of gears when driving a weasel. Could I suggest that you ask the engine rebuilder to do a full balance on your engine. It was recommended by my engine rebuilder and I can assure you that my engine runs sweet. Personal choice though but IMHO its worth the extra $$$$$$. Look forward to seeing your T24 come to life. Cheers.

     

    Push to Start Button.

    in Buy, Sell, Trade

    Posted

    20 hours ago, D.R.H. said:

    I took the "push-to-start" button out of my instrument panel in an attempt to free it up and make it work again. Well, I experienced a complete failure. It was to rotten inside it literally crumbled in my hot little hands.

    I am looking to buy a replacement please. Condition from N.O.S. to good serviceable is what I'd like. Does anyone have one for sale?

    Years ago I believe that Rob W. @Rob Whad modified some after market panel light switches and made them work as a push to start switch. I could be wrong but hopefully Rob will see this post and offer his educated thoughts on this subject.

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