OZM29C
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Posts posted by OZM29C
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@Patrick Tipton Hopefully this will show the problem Patrick. Cheers
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@DonM Well done 👍 refurbishing the engine alone will give you hours of unmitigated fun.
Amongst all of the work you have planned to refurbish this engine, can I suggest two extra things borne from both my experience and others?
1. Fit an Aluminium camshaft timing gear
2. Have your crankshaft crack tested by an Automotive engineer
@Patrick Tipton Patrick, any idea as to why I can only post piddly max sized 18.55kb photos?
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On 10/18/2023 at 1:02 PM, DonM said:
Also, any suggestions about tipping the hull on its side as you did in your shed without damaging the hull or maiming any humans?
@DonM In my case Don, I just used my engine hoist to roll the hull onto its side. To support the hull I just used some lengths of soft wood timber (Lumber) offcuts. The ultimate way of course is to fabricate a rotisserie.
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On 10/18/2023 at 1:00 PM, DonM said:
Very interesting! I think as we get to cutting out the rot, we’ll have a better idea of what direction to take. As far as welding goes, we’re newbies. Done a few patches here and there on a Jeep but this is by far the biggest job we’ve tackled.
On another topic, is there a good way to remove the “buttons” on the coaming without wrecking them?
@DonM The buttons appear to be made from solid metal however looks can be deceiving, they are actually a light gauge pressed steel cap crimped onto a stud. As they have been in place for many years there is a good chance that they could be destroyed in trying to remove them. In my case I just left them be and only replaced the damaged/missing buttons. @Jim Gilmore Jim Gilmore used to make an excellent reproduction button kit in years gone by. According to my records they were $69USD. It might be worth contacting Jim and asking the question if replacement buttons are still available. Having said that a good machinist could reproduce replacement buttons with ease. Cheers
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@DonM Here's another school of thought for you to consider. I repaired another T24 hull whereby I welded the sponson sheet/panel into position first and then populated the sponson with the required hardware. In this case I used zinc annealed mild steel sheet metal which necessitated the use of 'Plug Welding' in lieu of spot welding. By and large the end result was more than satisfactory, however I must say that this was a quick repair job and some fine details were not finished to an OEM standard. The pictures tell a better story. Cheers
PS For some reason I can only post 18.55kb photos???? Anyway rather than post photos, head on over to this thread and you will see what I have discussed;
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@DonM Mate, you have everything remaining there in your hull that is needed to fabricate replacement sponsons. IMHO I would fabricate the replacement sponsons off vehicle and then fit them into place once complete. You will certainly be able to salvage most of the hardware for re use. Regrettably the original hat channels, contour flanges and such corrode/rust from the inside out so don't be lulled into thinking that they will be reusable. Attached are a number of photos to study on how I repaired a T24 hull years ago.
@Rob W Rob Walsh had available years ago, a hat channel repair kit that was worth every cent. I don't think Rob has them in stock nowadays but it might still be worth asking the question of him.
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@DonM Can you please post some photos showing the state of the floors in your Weasel? There are numerous options out there on how to repair floors however a few photos would help with regard to offering specific advice and repair options.
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@rml1708 Again, this TB may be helpful.
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@rml1708 Here is a photo of the set up in my weasel. Not quite what you were looking for but a very functional consideration.
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@rml1708 I always found this photo to be a great reference. It was taken after a buried Weasel was dug up in Holland years ago. Like a time capsule.
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@F-D ZerniaBZ on your first engine start.👍 It is a real shot of motivation to hear an engine start for the first time. Make sure your engine header pipe is as close to OEM as you can possibly make it. It is such a tight/close fit once the engine is lowered down in the hull. One last thing, you were talking about shared commonality between the Studebaker Cars and the Weasel, the Weasel oil dip stick (gauge) is indeed different to the civilian equivalent. Totally interchangeable but the level markings differ markedly.
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One last thing, this production change list is a handy reference tool that might help you correlate the changes in production to your weasel;
All production changes follow the ordnance serial number, found on the data plate behind the driver seat, and all changes came into effect on the serial number after the one stated in the list.
807:
- Oil seals instead of just gaskets are now installed on the drive sprocket shafts.
1002:
- The heater switch is no longer installed.
- The ignition switch is changed to a three position switch.
- The radiator is changed to one with large capacity.
- The fan shroud is changed
- The fuel filter is moved from the front coaming next to the fuel tank to in front of the radiator on the right hand side.
- Grease fittings are installed for lubrication of the bogie wheel shafts.
- Shims are now installed on the bogie wheel shafts to aid in setting bearing pre load.
- The engine compartment divider panel is changed to a two piece design.
- A canvas seal is installed around the gear shift shafts in the engine compartment side panel.
- The radio terminal box changes location.
- The radio antenna cable on the left side of the hull is no longer installed.
- Name change from T24 to M29.
2102:
- Track deisgn is changed, 20" tracks are installed.
- Track skirts are now installed.
- The pintle hook is changed to none swiveling type.
- An H plate is installed on the gear shift lever assembly.
- A guide bracket is installed on the engine for the gear shift rods.
- The compass is no longer installed.
- The voltmeter is no longer installed.
- The hand crank is no longer installed.
- The demolition charge is no longer installed.
- The drivers hand hold is no longer installed.
- The cargo partition is no longer installed.
- The installation of the bogie support arm is changed.
- The bogie wheel yokes change design to being cast instead of shaped from sheet metal.
- The extra rebound bumpers on the two middle traverse springs are no longer installed.
- The design of the traverse springs is changed.
- The idler wheel is changed to a split type design.
- Oilers are installed on steering lever shafts.
- Grease fittings are installed in the guide wheels.
2197:
- The transmission cover gets a breather hole.
2365:
- Change of the safety clip in the clutch.
3102:
- The hand crank hole is no longer installed.
- A transmission service access panel is installed in the rear floor.
- The search light is no longer installed.
- A fixed headlight is now installed.
- The battery is changed from one 12 Volt to two 6 Volt wired in series.
- The location of the fire extinguisher is changed from the back to the front of the vehicle.
- More grease fittings are installed in the bogies.
- The brush guard design is changed, and can no longer be folded down.
- The top back curtain is now a separate piece.
3132:
- All weasels are now painted OD instead of camouflage white and black.
- All canvas parts change colour from white to OD.
3331:
- The radio interference filter on the generator regulator is changed to a condenser.
- The generator to regulator electrical harness is changed to a shielded type.
3449:
- The track tension springs are changed to a 7 leaves design.
- An oil drain plug is now installed in the differential housing on the left side.
3601:
- The fuel pump is changed from a two valve type to a six valve type.
- The air cleaner is change to the oil bath type.
4102:
- Name change from M29 to M29C.
- Flotation tanks are now installed.
- The guide wheel shafts are now replaceable and no longer welded to the guide wheel mounts.
- The canvas seal around the gear shift shafts in the engine compartment panel change colour from white to OD.
- Stretcher brackets are now installed.
4935:
- Lubrication free bushings are now installed in the clutch pedal shaft.
5476:
- Grease fittings are installed in the drive wheel hubs.
8141:
- Seat belts are no longer installed.
9402:
- The text ”LIFT HERE” is now painted next to the lifting holes.
9502:
- The mechanical fuel pump is no longer installed.
- Electric fuel pump installed in the fuel tank is now installed.
- A new tool to check the track tension, by the use of a torque wrench, is now introduced.
10922:
- A warning placard is added about the use of the clutch.
11575:
- An opening is now in cut the left hand radiator support panel to aid in air circulation.
- The design of the canvas seal around the gear shift shafts in the engine compartment side panel is now changed to a metal and felt design.
12325:
- The differential drain plug is changed to magnetic type.
13199:
- The transmission drain plug is changed to a magnetic type.
13560:
- The design of the clutch control linkage is changed.
- Drive wheel carrier brace rods are installed.
- The fuel tank is changed from a metal tank to a self sealing type.
- A ground wire is installed on the electric fuel pump.
14229:
- Reinforcement rings are now installed on the drive wheels.
14682:
- The light switch design is changed to the rotary type.
- Blackout drive light is now installed.
around. 14999: (Planned, but not executed)
- Track tension spring design is changed from leaf spring to coil spring.
15126:
- Weasel production ends, 1945.08.29.
around. 15562: (Planned, but not executed)
- A scraper is installed on the drive wheel carrier to keep dirt and debris out of the drive wheels.
ca. 15681: (Planned, but not executed)
- A handbrake is installed.
Edited July 11, 2021 by M29C3284
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9 minutes ago, DonM said:
Thanks OZM29C!
Is the "serial number" referred to in the bulletin the same as the "hull number"? Our hull number is UST-24-2003 but the serial number plate is odd, it has "1003 AND UP" for the serial number.
Here is a photo of the two plates.
@DonM There are learned Weasel scholars out there who can better offer advice regarding Weasel identification numbers however I can say for sure is that your ORD plate is a reproduction but your hull tag appears to be OEM. The serial number stated in the documentation is taken from the ORD plate positioned on the bulkhead behind the drivers head, not the Hull tag located on the upper right bulkhead in the rear compartment. Could I suggest that you have a dig around the rear bulkhead behind the driver as you might just be lucky enough to find a USA number. See position in the attached photo.
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@DonM The attachment may be of help to you.
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@DonM I am by no means an authority on Weasel production changes but when you mentioned the 'Zinc Chromate paint' found under the track skirts and also looking at the how the skirts have been fabricated and welded to the hull, I would hazard a guess that your hull may have gone through a rebuild in the 50's by for example, the Letterkenny Ordnance depot.
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@dragon FWIW, I would suggest that you give this company a call and see if they can make a custom HT lead set.
https://vintagewiring.com/product/studebaker-m29-amphibious-tracked-vehicle-weasel-complete-harness/
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Finally to compliment all of this work, I filled the transmission with an oil that was recommended by Penrite Australia.
I am sure that there are suitable compatible oils available overseas.
Transoil 90 is premium non EP, API GL-1 rated SAE 90 gear oil designed specifically for use in veteran, vintage and Edwardian gearbox, transaxles and selected spur and bevel type rear axles. It does not contain any aggressive load carrying additives that may cause corrosion damage to ferrous and non ferrous metal types used in these types of vehicles.
Application
Transoil 90 suitable for use in manual transmissions and transaxles in veteran, vintage & Edwardian vehicles.
Transoil 90 is used primarily as a gearbox oil in medium to large veteran and Edwardian cars. Also used in gearbox applications in vintage and pre war cars. It may also be used as a rear axle oil in many light cars or voiturettes. This oil is compatible with leather and synthetic rubber seals.
DO NOT use in axles fitted with any sort of hypoid gears.
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Another recommendation made to me was to fit High Capacity Bearings. Unfortunately I didn't record the bearing size and codes for future reference. For the small extra cost involved and knowing how hard a T84 transmission works in a Weasel i though that this was a worthwhile improvement. In the photo you can see some of the replacement parts that were sourced from my local Studebaker Parts dealer here in OZ.
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When rebuilding my weasel transmission, I had to replace the output shaft drive seal. I could not find an OEM seal at the time but nowadays I believe that they are available in the USA. With the exchange rate and overseas shipping costs to consider, I decided to fit an off the shelf, local supplied generic metric Viton seal. I bored the end cap out to suit the new seal. The last two photos show the OEM seal that I removed.
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Finding replacement OEM cork seals for the transmission selector shafts nowadays is a challenge. If found, time has not been too kind to them. I found a Viton O ring that made for a good seal on both the selector shaft and the transmission housing. Coupled with a machined to size Nylon retainer that is secured in position with the selector arm, this makes for a suitable replacement seal.
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The main bearing retainer cap seal is not the best of design so I decided to modify this assembly to prevent the possibility of oil leaking from the front of the transmission into the bell housing.
I silver brazed a steel collar into the inside of the bearing cap and then machined the cap to accept a standard off the shelf oil seal. I can't offer any updates on how this modification is going but in theory 😀 it should work.
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The Cluster gear in my transmission needed to be replaced. Although the Weasel T84 transmission does share some commonality with the MB/GPW Jeep transmission, the cluster gear is not one of them. The Weasel cluster gear is longer that the Jeep cluster gear when they are sat side by side. See photo. Weasel cluster gear is on the left of the photo. MB/GPW Cluster gears are a good substitute and are still readily available nowadays but a small modification is needed to make them work in a weasel transmission. In my case I machined a thicker thrust washer but I have heard that you can add an extra MB/GPW Jeep thrust washer to make them work as well. All I know is that by machining a new thrust washer, I could get the correct end thrust clearance.
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Thought that I would capture some of the improvements and repairs that I made to my Weasel's T84 Transmission in this separate post to facilitate an easier search for future restorers. The ideas and repairs methods that I have put forward here are in an advisory capacity and should by no means influence you on what you consider is best method for your restoration.
Lets start with the transmission mainshaft. The case hardening on the ground bearing surface of the shaft where it runs in the pilot rollers of the main drive gear had badly de laminated. In view of the low miles (1194Miles) on this transmission I can only guess that this was a manufacturing problem right from the start. Replacement shafts were available out of the USA but the exchange rate and overseas shipping costs made for a very expensive repair. For $18AUD I purchased a hardened steel collar (an inner bearing race) https://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/221005155573/?HissuCode=IRT1216 ,machined the mainshaft down to an interference fit size which allowed the steel collar to be press fitted onto the mainshaft. As added security, I used a Loctite super bearing mount compound. To date the repair has been very successful.
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I took my weasel to a local machinery show and in doing so, I took the opportunity to take a photo showing how I secure my weasel on the back of my truck. The attached photo shows the position of all tie down straps but more importantly my weasel is secure. I have travelled thousands of kilometres using this method.
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Father-Son Weasel Project
in Headquarters
Posted
@Patrick TiptonThank Patrick 👍
@DonM As promised, photo attached showing the Aluminium Camshaft Timing gear. Once you have removed the cylinder head all will be revealed. In my case there was substantial corrosion evident in a number of cylinders and in way of the valve seats which necessitated the cylinder block being re sleeved back to standard and hardened valve seats installed.