OZM29C
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Posts posted by OZM29C
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The next photo shows the cut-out made in the instrument panel and the modified bell crank support. The OEM bell crank is re-used in this mod. Disregard the accelerator return spring and bracket. I relocated these for ease of access.
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The next photo shows the cut-out made in the ventilator lid.
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Second photo partially shows the cut-out that I have made in the drivers side air deflector panel and the linkage rod.
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A Weasel owner over on the Weasel FB forum asked for some photos of the Accelerator mod that I have retrofitted to my weasel. I thought that I would capture the information here on this forum first in the hope that future weasel restorers can use this information as a reference. The first photo shows a comparison between a modified accelerator pedal and an OEM accelerator pedal. Top pedal is OEM, bottom pedal has been modified. I have also posted a copy of the MWO that came with my mod kit.
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@Beepbeep@42rocker As promised, please find attached a scan of the Norwegian track sprocket drawing. I must apologise in having to scan the drawing over two pages. It was just too big for my A3 sized scanner. All of the dimensions are in metric but having said that if you need to convert back to the old imperial units (albeit decimal units) then divide the metric dimension by 25.4. 25.4mm = 1 inch. Cheers.
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9 hours ago, Beepbeep said:
@OZM29C did you find the original tooth profile? I'm thinking of getting my old sprockets repaired and it would be good to know what profile I'm aiming for
@BeepbeepI did indeed. I can scan it for you on Tuesday. I will have to use my scanner at work as the drawing is way bigger than my A4 sized scanner here at home.
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@rml1708Gary Szechy from Gary's Bunker https://www.garysbunker.com/product-category/m29-parts/ did manufacture a very limited production run of the short wiper link.
It would be worth asking the question to see if Gary could again reproduce this short wiper arm?
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@Dake20I reckon that if you copy the snake river 4x4 outer bands, that will see you up and mobile in no time flat.
https://snakeriver4x4.com/weasel-parts
BTW Snake River don't make the bands any more
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I put this report up on the Weasel FB page but as there was a common theme regarding this problem as reported by other weasel owners, I thought that it would be best to capture the information here on the forum. Started my weasel engine for the first time since a marathon 8 mile drive 😀 down to local lake and back on the previous weekend. See attached video. I found that the exhaust flange gasket had disintegrated and the exhaust was 'chuffing' into the engine compartment. I had made a gasket from non asbestos compressed gasket material but it appears that it was not the right choice of gasket material. I have ordered a Studebaker OEM gasket to replace the blown gasket. Hopefully the replacement gasket will be more resistant to the heat.
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@F-D ZerniaWeasels are a labour of love and your repairs are a living testament to that statement. I went the extra mile and machined grease ways in my selector shafts. Getting that shift mechanism initially apart was a nightmare however with the added grease ways the next custodian will have no trouble getting it apart. As an added bonus though, shifting is smooth.
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On 3/2/2022 at 2:59 PM, Prc148 said:
I just received the drawings from Studebaker today. My first lengths were way too long. Coil to distributor is 50% too long also.
That's interesting👍Just out of curiosity, does/do the OEM drawing/s show a general layout for the HT wire and then specifies the individual lengths or are there 7 different drawings for each individual HT wire? BTW my question is not an indirect way of asking you to post a copy of your drawing.
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@Patrick TiptonMight be a good thread to make as a sticky? I am sure that other members would have stories to tell. Glad to see that you got some kind of resolution to your complaint through Fleabay.
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@D.R.H.A very functional track repair. Well done👍 One quick question though, what are your plans to restore the grouser blocks?
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Speaking of track links, I found this style of track joiner (dozens of them) on a rubbish dump up near the Aussi snow fields. I believe that they were made locally to repair the tracks on the weasels that were used as ski tows back in the 50's.
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2 hours ago, Patrick Tipton said:
I don't have a set to measure but I would just make up numbers and have them look neat. I am all about originality, but I don't think it matters a bit here.
Cheers
@Patrick TiptonI'll second that Patrick👍That's exactly what I did with my restoration. Having said that, a nice touch would be to include the HT wire guide.
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@Lighthorse 31Cant offer much advice on the T86. Having said that if you were to again use the T84 and looking at your photos, you will have to replace the drive/propeller/tailshaft with OEM. The T84 does share some internals with the standard MB/GPW Jeep T84. Namely the Synchroniser assembly, 1st gear, 2nd gear, reverse idler gear(with shaft) and the cluster gear (with shaft and some modifications). The main drive gear and mainshaft are unique to the Weasel. I have attached 2 photos showing the thicker cluster gear thrust washer that I fitted in order to use a standard MB/GPW Jeep cluster gear.
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2 hours ago, Patrick Tipton said:
probably fine for a hobby vehicle that will get maybe a few thousand miles in a few decades if it is used a lot!
I still would feel better with hardened seats though....
@Patrick Tipton Patrick, your reply above brought a smile to my face. With my weasel engine I asked very good friends of mine, who own and operate an Automotive engineering shop, to inspect my engine and rebuild it accordingly. The end product was an engineering marvel😀 NOS Crankshaft, NOS crank timing gear, NOS Crank pulley, Aluminium camshaft timing gear, flywheel ground, New ring gear, new pistons, rings and bearings, conrod resized, new valves and valve springs, New camshaft bearings, NOS Clutch disc and pressure plate, NOS oil pimp, engine block re sleeved, hardened valve seats fitted, engine block and cylinder head crack tested, and cleaned, Spark plug thread inserts fitted into cylinder head, new core plugs and last but not least the engine was fully balanced. Of note, I took their advice and let them assemble the engine as the engine assembly cost was insignificant when compared to the machining and parts costs. That way they could check that all clearances etc were within spec plus as an added bonus the engine came with a warranty. Now getting back to what you said, was this an overkill, most definitely and will I ever get value for money out of the engine, probably not but crikey it goes well. 😀
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1 hour ago, Patrick Tipton said:
Funny that you should mention hardened valve seats. For some reason, my machinist doesn't believe in them for most applications. It might be that he is so busy that he doesn't want the extra work! 🤣
I am going to see him tomorrow to chat about the engine and I will bring it up again. There are quite a few interesting SAE publications about unleaded and valve seats including, if I remember correctly, a big study that was done in Oz. If I remember correctly, there was accelerated wear, although maybe not as bad as originally contemplated...I need to find that article and reread it.
As always, appreciate it John!
@Patrick Tipton I had no choice but to fit replacement hardened valve seats as the original valve seats were both badly recessed and were severely pitted/corroded from exposure to the elements. I guess that being able to use unleaded fuel is an added advantage but not the real reason why the hardened valve seats were fitted. If you look carefully at the photo you can see the corrosion that I was talking about.
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@Patrick Tipton It must be a relief to finally get back to your T24 restoration. Can I offer a suggestion? If you are going to all that trouble to have your engine block and crankshaft machined, it would certainly be worth the extra expense to have hardened valve seats fitted into the cylinder block. I know this suggestion may seem an overkill but do it once and do it right. Cheers
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3 hours ago, Patrick Tipton said:
Great solution John, as always. You probably saw that back in the day they made a special cutting tool for cleaning up the sealing face. It is shown in TM 9-1772. So far, i have rebuilt two Weasel water pumps and both were in nice shape...just a little 3m pad to polish them up. Given how hard it is to find one, though, this is a great way to fix one with a pitted surface.
Cheers!
Yes @Patrick Tipton Patrick, as you can see in the before photo above, the old seal surface was certainly beyond redemption. Having rebuilt many Jeep water pumps this way, it was just a matter of adapting my technique to a Weasel water pump. I don't expect a lot of guys would have access to machining equipment that I have but if they were to print off the photos and take them to their local machine shop, I am sure that the machine shop could do the job for them. BTW the collar is made from 316 Stainless Steel. I also had to machine to size a generic ( I hate to admit it) Chinese made water pump bearing. See info below. Water pump bearing.pdf So far so good with the bearing but I don't think 16 miles on the weasel is a good reliability test as yet. The hardest part to find was the little retaining clip. Luckily a fellow in the UK gave me one but again I suspect that the clip would be a common Studebaker general part.
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@Pips_BlaauwHave a look at my photos below on how I had to rebuild my Water pump. Not withstanding Patrick's great video, this might give some thoughts and ideas on how to rebuild your pump. The stainless steel collar was an interderence fit into the pump housing. The epoxy adhesive was just for added security.
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23 hours ago, Raffi said:
I upgraded the drive train to diesel power and hydro-static drive (think of a tracked skid steer). Machine turns effortlessly even in gravel or dirt. Has plenty of torque. 2nd day of testing. Still experimenting/researching different hydraulic drive motors as trying to achieve a top speed of 15 MPH or so without losing torque/track power. Rest of machine will be restored to stock OEM appearance. Will start a separate thread on the drive train once it is dialed in.
Very unique power train adaptation. 👍One observation though but definitely not a criticism, 15mph tops will be a painfully slow speed to drive a weasel at???? 😥
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Wiper pivots
Accelerator Control Mod MWO ORD G179-W9
in Headquarters
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Here you can see the linkage rod cover plate fitted to the instrument panel