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5280Beltfed
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Starting up a thread for more information about my recent acquisition. Everyone is referring this unit as a “C” M29 but the hull tag is does not have a C in the number. I’ve read some units where made ready for the float tanks but are still considered a regular M-29. I’m a little confused I about what to refer to it as. It has Norwegian instructional plates above the steering and on the dash. 

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Edited by 5280Beltfed
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Can anyone direct me to a source of parts so I can complete this track tension gage tool? Or, if anyone has one I could make the rest from measurements. I would need number of coils, wire diameter, OAL, and inside diameter. Photos on grid paper would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! P.S. If others need that part let me know I can make a few.

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Edited by 5280Beltfed
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  • 3 weeks later...

Would this be the likely white camouflage painted on the hull or just the regular white paint used inside tanks etc? I don’t believe this inside panel has seen the light of day in a while.  Does anyone know if the insulation is of asbestos construct? I’ll treat it as so. Just removing bondo and crappy body work so I can pull the  right side forward at the torsion bar. Relieving the frame rails of sheet steel structure makes it go a little easier. Torsion bar is bent but luckily I had an nos spare in the lot. Like how bubba welded that center brace? Geeez! Thanks 

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Great project.  That straightening is a little daunting but you appear to be getting after it!  Great!

@James Di Giovanni can weigh in here on the M29/M29C question.  The earliest M29's were painted white at the factory, my guess is yours was painted white by the Norwegians.

There are several folks who have the track tensioner - hopefully they will chime in with measurements.  I don't have one at this point so I can't help you.

Storage of the tools?  Toolbag, I would assume behind the seats - about the only "storage" on the machine unless you pull seats and truly make it a cargo carrier!

Keep it up.

Patrick

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On 9/20/2020 at 2:02 PM, 5280Beltfed said:

Starting up a thread for more information about my recent acquisition. Everyone is referring this unit as a “C” M29 but the hull tag is does not have a C in the number. I’ve read some units where made ready for the float tanks but are still considered a regular M-29. I’m a little confused I about what to refer to it as. It has Norwegian instructional plates above the steering and on the dash. 

91800162-6EA0-4EAE-B52F-396C776AE342.jpeg

EE0C8414-C3A3-4BF7-A6DE-707EC34536D5.jpeg

1213F636-F675-4F64-B2BD-CE4BD3567E50.jpeg

8E43749E-91DC-45E5-8F81-6A410E275712.jpeg

3F96F81F-B9A8-40AD-8404-C7023E904E76.jpeg

Hello,

I have in my collection the majority of different variations of M29's

So the biggest deciding factor is your data plate.  That still bears the original rivets.   This plate needs to be cleaned up a bit more.

Yes the data plate behind the driver seat will say M-29.  The hull tag will say M-29.

 

Small history on the last M29.

When Studebaker came up with there "amphibious body" before the M29C was supposed to hit the assembly line   1000 "Amphibious bodys" where made into factory M29's.   Starting with serial number / ORD 3103  to 4103   

I would also like to point out that when the big body change from earlier m29 bodys to the new "Amphibious body" the hull tag numbers started over.

 

There are now very few examples left so these body types should be deemed as rare.

**Confused colletors😉

This rare body variant often confuseses collectors because the initial thoughts are that its an M29C.   Identical hulls yes, the thought was that if ever needed theses units can (with small modification) be turn in to M29C's

 

Now before someone says it😁😉 

Yes there are 2 different bodys of this rare type.  " Early" still has the insulation tabs through the body.

"Late" no tabs.  Inside is identical to a normal M29C

 

So how to tell.

Well much like the T-24 to first series M-29 the body's are identical.

***Which is another thing I'll be getting into**"😁😉

So when striped down its almost impossible to tell the difference.

**The original date plates are your friend.***

**Now if you found a last M-29  striped down**  how to tell.

Well all units from 3103 to 4103 where given factory front tow hooks and factory spot welded pioneer tool brackets on the rear..

If your machine is lacking all 3 points the chances that its a usual M29C are high.

 

 

Now to sum up.....until i get back to my research...which is at home.... Your hull tag number looks to high to be a rare m29  im thinking possibly it has been swapped.

 

"Again i say figure out what your data plate actually says that is the real decider"

 

 

But again ill check my numbers later to night to confirm.   I have both an "early bodied" Late M29 and a very early M-29-C in my collection with all original plates and tags.

 

 

 

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Wow thank you for your research! This hull has several insulation clips throughout as well as the pioneer tool brackets spot welded on. Drivers toe board has insulation intact. See pics. The tow hook, in my best forensic analysis, was completely ripped out of the hull when abused at one point. The support bracket or hat channel if you will was pulled outward and as you can see in the photos heavily repaired/replaced. Judging by the poor welds and misaligned metal this was done thru the hatch. Normally in a collision the unitized structure folds inward, not outward like here. Thanks I look forward to more information! PS the pioneer tool straps will be attached correctly when painted

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Started pulling and removed the bent support tube. Still need to pull forward .0625 but will use a spreader porta-power as it’s just spring movement prior to welding. That side was back a little over 2”. Had to torch the bent tube out and that wasn’t fun because I couldn’t safely remove the flanges due to bent tube and 75+ years of corrosion. Not sure if I should bother trying to remove the flanges as the gasket is surely burnt away. See how the re-install goes...

Here pics of my poor mans frame machine and rear servo hydraulics on the tractor pulling the frame. I should mention that you do not want to stand near or behind a chain when pulling and I drape a rubber mat over the pulling chain to stop it from going thru the cab if it breaks. I used a cheater bar to do initial pull just so I didn’t work the chain too hard. Then small pulls while lightly hammering the kink out. Fish plate over a weak area so I didn’t accidentally tear it apart. 

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Edited by 5280Beltfed
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