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Posted

Hi All,

I’ve tried to cross reference to the parts manual but I can’t answer my own questions. I would appreciate some knowledge.

1. Should the tiller cast bracket have bronze bushes for the tiller bar and the hi/low range leaver? 4 in total?

2. In the picture, These extra plates that are riveted to the engine lid have canvas sandwich between. Are these correct? If so, shout it be 1”x1/4” felt or the canvas piping?  Should they be riveted? Any pictures would be most helpful. I don’t remember these on the last weasel.

thanks in advance 

Byron

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Posted

Greetings Bryon:

1.  Yes.  See pictures and listing from ORD 9 with sizes....

2.  See attached pictures. My covers looks the same as yours - I am not sure exactly where this cover came from.... but I think the gasket material is attached to the hull side....

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Posted

Thank you Patric for your help.

my cast steering block has the same bushes as yours do, only one each side. Do we think this is correct? I was expecting to see a bush in each whole.

Then I started to think, have these been made after war to reduce ware

 

So do you think the same peace of gasket material permanently joins the lid to the hull? 
 

thanks again,

Byron

Posted

No - I think the bushings belong on both sides of that bracket ...there are 4 called for in the parts manual so I will put 2 back in - one on each side. 

As for the gasket - take a look at John's recent post...you can see the gasket on the hull.  That is how I think it fits, but I am not 100% certain on this.

Patrick

Posted

Hi Byron, I can't answer your question asking if the shift lever and steering tiller arm support should have one or two bronze bushings. In my case I erred on the side of caution and fitted two bushings. BTW my high/low range selector has bronze bushings as well. While you have the assembly apart, can I suggest that you add some grease ways to the tiller and shift selector shafts.  

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Posted

Hi Bryon, The following photos show how I replaced my engine cover seal. I have used a rubber extrusion in lieu of the original webbing piping. Also I believe that the seal is positioned on the higher side of the engine cover. If it was placed on the low side, it would not seal against the hull side due to a channel running fore and aft in the hull side.

Sorry about the dust on the engine cover.

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Posted

Thank you John,

Once again some amazing work on your behalf! Great attention to detail and what a brilliant idea adding some grease ways.

The dust will soon wipe off with a garage rag! 

I need to get making some bronze bushes in that case..... Actually..... that little job will be passed on to Dad.

I couldn’t manage to find a picture of the Engine hood anywhere, I looked right through the manual and parts manual to see if I could see it in the back ground of one of the pictures. 

Two Questions Answered, Thank you Patric and John 👍

cheers, Byron

 

Posted

Brilliant, thank you Jesse for the photo. Does the piping get cut where it hooks into the side of the hull? I was wondering if yours is the same as Johns 

i don’t think I fitted the part on my last weasel.... whoops. I have the clamping plates this time so I’ll look forward to doing this.

  • Like 1
Posted

Hi Byron,           I just checked in and saw you are working on the shift bushings. I just worked through the same thing a few months back. I made my bushings from copper water pipe fittings. The outside diameters were the right fit for pressing in the casting hole. The inside diameter was a bit tight so I took a rat tail file to that to increase the inside diameter. They take oil and felt smooth. It’s not as hard as brass but easy to replace.          
     I happen to be a plumber by trade and have a habit of looking for things that are common to me to make a repair. I have noticed that diameters in the trades are common to other industries as well. 

Fred

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Thank you Fred for the tip. I wish I had known that before. I’ve turned some up in the lathe now.

Thank you for your knowledge though, hopefully other guys will read this and use that information. 
how far through are you with your restoration? 
cheers, Byron

Posted

Hi Byron,   Wish I sent the post earlier on the copper fitting idea. I do think if it is made of brass or bronze it may be more durable though. Although I have found broken bronze parts before on the weasel. It’s possible the bronze was too brittle in some applications or was of an inferior quality at the time. 
    Our weasel is on the bogie wheels again mostly greased and cleaned of mud. I have been in touch with our local Studebaker collectors club for advice on engine and transmission questions. I will take the engine in for a rebuild soon. The Covid issues are slowing that time frame for me. I will restore this one to running condition but not original. There are parts I want to move to another machine to get that one close to right. 
    My son calls this machine the beater with a heater. It will be to learn how to drive in and just explore. I hope to be up and running by summer. 
Fred

  • Like 1
Posted

Well done Fred, I’ll look forward to seeing some pictures. The bushes are made, fitted and all painted up. I’ve yet to post some pictures on my restoration thead

Beater with a heater... I like that!!

wow, I love the fact you use yours for exploring too, that sounds fun!

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
On 11/14/2020 at 12:28 AM, Byron said:

Brilliant, thank you Jesse for the photo. Does the piping get cut where it hooks into the side of the hull? I was wondering if yours is the same as Johns 

i don’t think I fitted the part on my last weasel.... whoops. I have the clamping plates this time so I’ll look forward to doing this.

The answer is: I dont know. I dont have proof either way. Maybe that piece is in the background of a picture in one of the manuals.

Edited by Jesse Browning
Addition.

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