Patrick Tipton Posted October 25, 2023 Share Posted October 25, 2023 @OZM29C No. There is nothing weird....when you look at the bottom of your comment window...you should see "Max total size 48.83 MB" - do you see that? If not, kindly send me a screen shot and we can try and figure this out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OZM29C Posted October 25, 2023 Share Posted October 25, 2023 @Patrick Tipton Hopefully this will show the problem Patrick. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick Tipton Posted October 26, 2023 Share Posted October 26, 2023 Fixed! We have a limit on the number of attachments...just a spam prevention technique. You are so generous with your photos that you reached the limit. Fixed....! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OZM29C Posted October 26, 2023 Share Posted October 26, 2023 @Patrick TiptonThank Patrick 👍 @DonM As promised, photo attached showing the Aluminium Camshaft Timing gear. Once you have removed the cylinder head all will be revealed. In my case there was substantial corrosion evident in a number of cylinders and in way of the valve seats which necessitated the cylinder block being re sleeved back to standard and hardened valve seats installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonM Posted October 28, 2023 Author Share Posted October 28, 2023 Great suggestions! There are shops around who do magnaflux testing so I'm planning to get the crank, cam shaft, and block examined. Also successfully extracted the axle unit which will enable us to finish stripping the inside of the hull. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonM Posted October 28, 2023 Author Share Posted October 28, 2023 OZM29C, is the original cam shaft gear steel? Is aluminum to avoid corrosion? Where can I source one? Nothing prettier (well almost nothing) than a shiny clean engine! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darth_kitten Posted October 28, 2023 Share Posted October 28, 2023 The OEM cam gear is a phenolic (or some other composite) that could disintegrate. The aluminum is an improvement of that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonM Posted October 28, 2023 Author Share Posted October 28, 2023 Ah yes, I remember now, just like a Willys engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OZM29C Posted October 29, 2023 Share Posted October 29, 2023 On 10/28/2023 at 1:16 PM, DonM said: OZM29C, is the original cam shaft gear steel? Is aluminum to avoid corrosion? Where can I source one? Nothing prettier (well almost nothing) than a shiny clean engine! @DonM Search for the forum member @Byron and read his adventure and subsequent advice regarding phenolic camshaft timing gears. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonM Posted November 5, 2023 Author Share Posted November 5, 2023 Byron's postings are quite interesting and motivating!. We found a mysterious number stamped into the left most (driver side) top of the center bulkhead (see photo). Not sure if it is anything significant. The stamp is on a reinforcement bracket there presumably for lifting. It appears to be A0 6050 where the "zeros" are a little ambiguous, could be C or 9 or something like that. Any ideas? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick Tipton Posted November 5, 2023 Share Posted November 5, 2023 That is very interesting.....I don't know. Hopefully @Jim Gilmore will wake up and pay us a visit. Cheers! Patrick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonM Posted December 5, 2023 Author Share Posted December 5, 2023 Just a quick update...we finally got the hull tipped up. The John Deere made for a good gantry crane. As posted in the shim thread, we are removing the bogeys and found the arms shimmed 1 thick+ 1 thin on forward arm, 1 thin on each of the two middle arms and 1 thick + 1 thin on the aft arm (all on the right side of the hull). Regarding our engine (S/N T24-815), there is a cover plate where I would expect the fuel pump to be. Did the early T-24s have an external (electric) fuel pump? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick Tipton Posted December 5, 2023 Share Posted December 5, 2023 10 hours ago, DonM said: Regarding our engine (S/N T24-815), there is a cover plate where I would expect the fuel pump to be. Did the early T-24s have an external (electric) fuel pump? Negative. The early T24s had a mechanical fuel pump with an attached filter with a glass bowl. They are a little strange a little hard to find. There are a couple of variations of fuel tank setups with metal tanks with no internal fuel pump, metal tanks with internal fuel pump, self-sealing rubber tanks etc. Study the ORD 9 fuel section. Practically, all systems can be make to function or even a combination of them - really depends on whether you care about making them original or not. The later style mechanical fuel pumps are not hard to find and work well. Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonM Posted December 5, 2023 Author Share Posted December 5, 2023 Looked at TM9, they went with electric pumps inside the fuel tank after vehicle SN 9502. So it appears that our early engine was part of some upgrade to an “updated” fuel system. When we mix and match hulls and engines, parts and refits. It really does beg the question how do you define “original”? It’s all fun regardless! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OZM29C Posted December 6, 2023 Share Posted December 6, 2023 4 hours ago, DonM said: Looked at TM9, they went with electric pumps inside the fuel tank after vehicle SN 9502. So it appears that our early engine was part of some upgrade to an “updated” fuel system. When we mix and match hulls and engines, parts and refits. It really does beg the question how do you define “original”? It’s all fun regardless! Kind of reinforces my thought that your particular weasel may have gone through a 1950's Ordnance depot rebuild programme. Keep up the good work👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonM Posted December 23, 2023 Author Share Posted December 23, 2023 Just posting our best wishes to Patrick, OZ, and all you guys out there in Weasel Land for a very Merry Christmas and a happy and healthy New Year. Looking forward to some serious welding on the hull and digging into the engine this coming year. It's a blessing to have a such a supportive community! 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick Tipton Posted December 24, 2023 Share Posted December 24, 2023 You guys are cooking! Merry Christmas to you and the family too! I am looking forward to a 2024 full of Weasel activity on the forum and on our channel. Cheers Don and everyone else! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonM Posted December 26, 2023 Author Share Posted December 26, 2023 I hope you all are enjoying a peaceful Christmas season. I thought I would share a gift from my daughter. She rides an ambulance as a paramedic but enjoys writing. She wrote me this poem about my M38 which I think captures the essence of what we are doing....... 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonM Posted December 31, 2023 Author Share Posted December 31, 2023 Starting our engine tear down. The stamped SN is T-24 815 the casting number is 194322-4 A there is also a riveted tag with W 9 9 The serial number is pretty low so I assume the casting was made in 1943. Is there any other information I can extract from these numbers? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M29C3284 Posted December 31, 2023 Share Posted December 31, 2023 @DonM You are correct in assuming it is a 1943 engine. W 9 9 translates to 9 September 1943 and is date when your engine block was cast. 194322-4 A is the block part number. There could/should also be a date stamped next to cylinder no. 1 exhaust port. I believe that this date is the engine assembly date. I have seen the same stamping on other Studebaker engines, but in a different place on the block, so I that leaves me to believe that I am correct in assuming this. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick Tipton Posted December 31, 2023 Share Posted December 31, 2023 On 12/26/2023 at 2:07 PM, DonM said: I hope you all are enjoying a peaceful Christmas season. I thought I would share a gift from my daughter. She rides an ambulance as a paramedic but enjoys writing. She wrote me this poem about my M38 which I think captures the essence of what we are doing....... Love this! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonM Posted January 1 Author Share Posted January 1 Dropped the pan and we were very happy to see just dirty oil but not a hint of water or debris. No obvious signs of damage to the crank or block upon cursory inspection. Will have better assessment tomorrow. Have a shop lined up to magnaflux and dress up the block, crank and cam shafts. Tried to locate date stamps on exhaust port but nothing so far….more cleaning will tell! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonM Posted January 2 Author Share Posted January 2 More tear down today. Couple of stuck pistons but they came out eventually. Most of the valves are pretty stuck. Other than that, everything looks quite good. Again no signs of breakage and only minor corrosion. I’m guessing this engine had a relatively easy life. (Not so much the hull) Did not find any date stamps by the exhaust ports. They probably added that in later production units. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonM Posted January 3 Author Share Posted January 3 Engine teardown progressing well. Got it free and turning……it’s a beautiful thing! Found some stampings at the top of the block which may indicate prior work maybe reboring. The numbers were next to each cylinder 0 0 05 1 05 05 maybe these are rebore numbers ie 05 = 0.050? if so the “1” would be 0.100? That seems big to me for rebore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OZM29C Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 @DonM I can see 0.5 in the photo. Just a guess 0.5mm = 0.020"Inches and 1.00mm = 0.040"Inches. Can you measure the diameter of the bore? Seems unusual though that the block has been bored to different sizes but hey, anything is possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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