Patrick Tipton

Thanks for sharing Tim. Good information. I am using Haggerty for my MV's...but have not added Weasels yet. I need to call and get a quote.

Ha! Me not reading so well either! The shaft just slides into splines...if you have a good strong magnet, you should be able to just pull it out.... Fixed the thread title 😀

Brad...when you say driver's side drive shaft, you confuse me. There is only one in the center and it is a splined slip fit on the transmission side and a standard universal on the final drive side. Sounds like you are working with something else?

It surprises me that this small adjustment would make that much difference! As always, your attention to detail is impressive John. Look forward to hearing the results.

That looks pretty good Brad. I agree about the suspension....you expect the Weasel ride to be super smooth, but you feel the bumps and even more so in the back of the machine. The more I do maintenance - greasing the undercarriage, working on the engine, etc....the better she runs. Keep those videos coming. Cheers, Patrick

Thank you @OZM29C John. The track tensioning leaf springs on this machine probably need to be replaced. The tracks don't skip when I am alone, but I have loaded the Weasel up with 3 other adults and I could jump teeth if I cranked on the steering. I still have a little throw so am going to tighten them a bit more this weekend.....but in the meantime - I am just enjoying the machine. I don't really drive this on pavement, but was at a show last weekend and took a lap or two....no hard turns on those expensive tracks! Weasel.mov

Appreciate it Brad. Had a great time at the show. Great machines...

Did a little bodywork on the Weasel and got the camouflage mostly finished. The front end took a pretty good hit at some point - we got a lot of it out and burned off a few lbs of lead and bondo. I initially thought I would have to replace the front panel - I think we can probably straighten it out with a little creative metal bumping. The camo pattern was hand drawn without measuring, so it isn't exact, but it is based off of the factory drawings for this pattern. I will restore this hull at some point, but in the meantime, it runs and drives and is steering better and better.

Got the driver side prepped and primed. It isn't perfect (I took most of the layers of paint off, but not quite down to bare metal), but better and good enough for right now. This Weasel will get completely restored at some point, but not now. I did spend a few minutes removing dents from the cockpit coaming and also welded up the wire edge where someone had cut about 1/2" in a few spots. I stripped the engine cover too. It looks a lot better and will look even better tomorrow when it is all white....and then we will add the camo. I may do some bodywork tomorrow on the bow too....fix the big cut/replace about a square foot of steel. We shall see.

We have a military vehicle show next weekend and the M29 is looking a little ragged. I decided to freshen the paint a little and finish the camouflage. I got the driver side mostly sanded last night and will get it painted today. Interestingly enough, I have not found any hull markings, although the original registration number is behind the drivers seat. I have a little more sanding yet, so something may still show up.

Interesting that she isn't running a little better in the deep snow. I think you have a couple of things working against you. First, the top is great for the weather, but heavier than original canvas which increases weight/ground pressure. Also, I am guessing that your undercarriage is significantly heavier than the original track system. Those tracks look like they are adapted from a Thiokol..... Weasels are definitely right on the edge of being underpowered. When everything is working just right, it will go uphill in high range - 2/3rd gear as long as you hit the slope with a little speed. If things aren't tuned right, it will bog in high range in any gear unless you are flat ground. There is a lot of friction in the entire system. I would keep tweaking that carburetor and see if you can get a little more power out of her but you will probably be running in low range 2/3. I would also go over the entire undercarriage and make sure everything is well lubricated. Cheers! Patrick

Thanks Tim!

Interesting....I am going to see if the Bridge Plate manual has a listing. The good news is..."I am a Weasel, I don't need no stinking bridge"

All good info. One thing with the wing nuts....there is a sweat spot. Too tight isn't good and too loose isn't either. I keep adjusting 1/2 turn increments and mine is improving for sure. Not quite finger tip but it is pretty responsive now.

Nice Brad. Yep, you need to give that cameraman a tripod! 🤣 That is a very interesting set of tracks. I forgot they were modified like that. Looks like they run great though. One thing you learn with these machines - they get awful gas mileage! I have a 20 gallon boat tank in mine right now...and it is always out of gas. Sounds like you may have some carb issues too... I am jealous of all that snow....Weasels eat it up!

Glad she is running Brad. Please report your steering adjustment success.....we are going to break that code!

The red circled hole is likely one of the hull tag mounting holes. The hull tags had their holes punched and so the holes on the hull are chamfered. I am thinking the other hole is right under the stretcher mount - likely why the hull tag was removed too..... The reason I don't think that the 14xxx number is correct is because the radiator opening is not correct for an M29C and almost certainly a late '45 production machine would have been a true C. I say almost certainly because I understand there were a small number of non-floaters made late in the war. We are working on a book right now and have all of the contracts...I just have not been through them yet. The other thing - your machine has the holes to mount the front spot light....that was only a T24/M29 feature. The holes are the three under the windscreen on the drivers side near the middle. From the drivers view....right side near wiper motor...you can also see what an original wiper motor looks like.

Thanks @OZM29C. I had mine out yesterday in the snow. I still don't have it right, but the steering is improving. I was getting nice skidding turns although the pressures are still too high. I am going to do more experimenting this weekend and will report back.

Congrats and welcome. Looks like a nice and complete machine. They are a lot of fun for sure. From what I can tell, it looks like your machine is a straight M29, made after the initial batch of about 1000 that had 15 inch tracks and no side flares. If the stamped number were to be a hull number (and it seems like it could be), then your machine would have been made in early 1944. Doing maintenance on the engine with the engine in the hull is a chore. If you can't get it started, I highly recommend just pulling it, making a quick test stand and sorting out the engine troubles outside of the machine. You will save a lot of heartache in the long run. I see several modifications, including the windshield wiper motors, and those beads on the front bow. Hopefully some other folks will jump in here and offer some more information. I am not sure that is a repro plate.....most of the time, folks don't take the time to rivet them in place. That looks original to my eyes, although the number does not make sense to me. The hull tags are small tin strips....that looks like it might be a rebuild stamp of some sort or they removed the original tag when the stretcher brackets were installed and just stamped the number to keep a record of the hull number. You can see the screw holes where the original tag would have been. Those registration numbers are fantasy. Your number would be 4017xxxx....likely 40176xxx and there are several folks here who should be able to help you narrow it down. Look forward to videos of it driving! Patrick

Not much better than a Weasel in the snow.....note that the left track is a bit loose..... M29 SnowSmall.mov

Good progress. I have been having success with Evaporust/Rust911 - the Rust911 comes in a concentrate and is cheaper - both do a great job. I would be tempted to test them on those cables. I have been tempted to build a tent/pool out of plastic & 2x4s, grab an aquarium pump and soak an entire Weasel tub in the stuff - would stop the rust in those nearly inaccessible hat channels. The T15 is significantly lighter than the T24/M29 but make the rotisserie robust...Weasels are pretty heavy little beasts.

The correct adjustment of the Weasel's steering system seems to be a bit of a mystery. I have driven Weasels with fingertip steering and then you see so many machines with broken or reinforced steering levers because it takes so much pressure to make them turn. The big question is why. The steering system is pretty Rube Goldberg and most of the levers/cross shafts etc. are running steel against steel with no bushings and probably very little lubrication. The early steering levers had no means of lubrication - so they received whatever (probably a light coat of oil given their intended use) and that was that. The final drive is a pretty simple "wet clutch" style differential with brake bands to drive more power to one track or the other - interestingly made by Clark Equipment - who also made the airborne dozer. There are only three adjustments - the large "wing" nuts that allow the operator to tighten the bands and then two set screws on each band that are used to help place the brake band in the correct position around the brake drum. I have been playing around with my M29 and the steering a lot. I have read and reread the manuals and followed the instructions closely to some success. My M29 will turn to the right with very little pressure. It does not like turning to the left. I am developing my theories, but the goal of this this thread to to collect best practices and write an article that will be pinned so we can guarantee fingertip control of our machines. Please share your experience.

Congrats on the safe trip Tim....These machines pull heavy for sure.

Looks awesome! One little step at a time!

First things first - that is super cool that it has its original engine. Is the data plate on the hull? Interesting that the number appears to be 813 and there were 600 T15's made....maybe a replacement or maybe not - Studebaker did not match engines to machines but there is generally a correlation in that early machines have early numbered engines. I believe your fuel pump is a later style and incorrect for a T15, although it would of course work fine. The early fuel pump has a glass fuel bowl. I have seen NOS T15 carbs floating around and they have not been insanely expensive. You should be able to find one. As for the manuals....I have wasted a lot of time looking at them and there is a method to the madness. They are all organized the same way....I probably need to do a video on all the stuff that is in there...simpler than trying to write it out. Another project!🤣 Progress is one little step at a time. Carry on!