F-D Zernia

Next is making the boggies straight in alignment. Mike Howard and Troy at Liberty made it very clear how important this step is. The track guides will not wear prematurely and the Weasel should drive as smoothly as can be. The way to check alignment is with a 1 inch wide piece of metal. This gauge needs to slide through all of the bogies. This was no simple task at first. Some of my bogie support arms were bent. I replaced those first. Next there are shims behind the support arm bracket where it bolts to the hull. That will tip the wheels from left to right and change the clearance. At this point two sets gave me some trouble. The fix was to lift the assembly with the home made tool and shift the support arm in the spring yoke. The bolt thread would engage with the yoke in different positions left to right. That worked on one assembly. The other we removed and turned it 180 degrees in the yoke and that did it. During all of this I also checked with a bar on the outside of the bogies. That should be the initial thing to check. It made sense to me if the outside is straight it should be close on the inside. Also you will know what direction to adjust without guessing. The steel I used happen to be 1” x 7/8” solid bar. It was possible to get the 7/8” bar through and not the 1”. At least then I knew it was getting close.

I learned so much while installing the first track on this machine and made many mistakes and miscalculations. This is my attempt to pass on some information. We decided to begin with the LAR tracks. It made sense for me and the Liberty folks are a wealth of good information. Although there are enough good grousers in our collection for one rebuild this is not the only Weasel we have. At some point in time new tracks were in the plan so now is as good a time as any. And I can get to their shop and back in less than a day to pick tracks up in person. We needed to build a tool to lift the boggie assemblies. I used this all through the process. I made this from left over material from other projects. Mike Howard explained the tool to us and how it works with a floor Jack. I will be changing my design soon. It worked fine without a track. But is to tight on the assembly next to the return roller after the track was in place.

I’m waiting on engine news so moved to suspension and tracks. Many things are going on and many of the steps have been written about already by others. Lately I have been working on the track idler assembly. When I removed the tension leaf spring the bends and damage were obvious. If the spring is damaged and not allowing the idler to move freely this may cause suspension problems down the line. My option was to build a new spring. The springs dimensions are close to the parts on a cargo trailer and they are plentiful in all kinds of price ranges. What I found at a spring shop surprised me at how well it worked out. I was lucky to find a spring that the mounting eye on one end turned down like the one I am replacing. No one at the shop could tell me what trailer this was for. This part has been on the shelf for way to long and they we’re happy to have somebody take it off there hands. The pictures show an original spring and another cut up with the leftovers. I made the main leaf a little longer so the adjusting bracket would sit on the spring better. The springs cut well with a small grinder using cut off wheels. I drilled the new holes for the center bolt with a cobalt drill bit on the slowest available speed and used cutting oil. Ends up it’s just like working with stainless steel. It worked best to drill through in one pass. Now there is a little arc to the spring, it’s all brand new and should have a good adjusting range. Before installing I plan to spread a thin layer of grease between the leafs and wrap them with duck tape to keep dirt out. This worked well on dirt short track stock cars years ago when the cars were close to stock. The reason for this step is we plan to drive this one regularly and it will not be in military colors. The next weasel will have that distinction. Fred

I’m a little behind on watching the videos and didn’t realize you were out of the loop for a while. Glad to hear your feeling better and will be back in the shop soon. Hope the family does well too. You have provided very much advice on methods it really helps. The mending of your floor panels is a good task for all to see. Just to pass on I know for myself there were days in the dead of winter I worked on a project because you did something similar and got me past the questions I had. Thanks Fred

This is a picture of the seal I usedthe gasket is 7/8” thick and is easily cut. Wear disposable gloves, some of the gaskets can be sticky. I’m looking for other uses for the remaining material.

These pictures are of the gasket install process that I used. gently tap out the seal retainerinstall the seal in the retainer and set into the end of the final driveGentle tap it hometrim to fit a little bigger than the axle tubeI made a test piece a little smaller than the axle tube. when I installed the axle tube it shaved the seal just a bit and the pieces were on the tube end and we picked it out with a dental hook.

I have been trying to source seals locally for the final drive axle. With dimensions from John from OZ I was able to create my own felt seals for the final drive center to axle tube joints. I found that a felt toilet seal from the 50’s and was a good looking material. This part is a similar kind of felt and impregnated with wax. It is for a commercial wall hung type water closet. The outside dimension we need was close to the outside of a 3” PVC fitting and the ID is slightly smaller than the 3” pipe. I created a gauge with plumbing parts and only needed to file the plastic pipe a little to get it smaller than the OD of the axle tube end. A little trimming and tapping and this seemed to work. the original seal is trimmed into 3 equal slices. A sharp knife works well. The pipe sticks out of the coupling about 1/4” to fit into the ID. with the exacto modeling knife slowly trim to fit that OD dimension. A little big is better than small, it will still fit. you will end up with a proper gasket in the end. In another post I will show how it fit in the final drive and the finish trimming.

I have been mostly in fitting and cleaning parts lately and stumbled across something useful. For a penetrating oil product I have filled two oil cans: one diesel or fuel oil and the other SAE 30 oil. First I use drops of fuel oil on the joint or in the oil cup. Get the part to move just a little. Then a few drops of SAE 30 oil. When the part moves a little repeat the process. So far this has freed the; transmission and steering controls, steering cross shaft, wind screen hinge and brackets, the joint to separate the halves of the wind screen and more. No heat used at all. Usually it works like new in 20 to 30 minutes. I have also used it on nuts and bolts. So far it has given better results than store bought products. Funny thing a friend gave me a copy of an old publication with a similar formula. Practical Help for Farm and Home 1 part engine oil (SAE 20) 10 part water-white kerosene can add 1 part rancid lard applied to machinery parts 24-48 hours before taken apart I have mostly used this on moving, turning parts with success. No heat and less hammering

Patrick, I spent time on the radiator mount panels this morning. The panels are straight with no dents or bows. Like getting the radiator out everything was tight again and I did a little head scratching. First I removed the bottom drain valve and plugged the hole. The bottom of the radiator compartment I filled with folded cardboard so I could rest the radiator between attempts, that helped. With the fan shroud in place the opening at the mounting tabs was too narrow for the width of the radiator so I elongated those holes to get the tabs to spread farther. Then set the radiator in the opening on an angle and try to turn it in place. What needed to be done: pull the radiator to the middle of the opening and slide it straight in with both sides hitting the studs all at one time. Going in evenly everything slipped into place. So when I start on an angle with the fuel filter side closest to the mounting flanges, center the radiator parallel to the mount and slide it in place, it fit. Everything for me was too tight when hanging one side first. The diagonal dimension of the radiator would not slip into the opening past the flanges. The shroud problem was just an added inconvenience. good luck Fred

Patrick, I saw the latest March Madness installment with the tight fitting radiator. It reminded me how difficult ours was to remove. I created a spreader to push the side walls apart to wiggle the radiator free. It was difficult to say the least. At the time I decided when it’s time to reinstall I will clip an angle iron piece to the flanges of the radiator as a guide and grind some off to get a looser fit. I just pulled out those parts today to dry fit mine as well. I need everything in place to take some measurements. If all goes well I will grind the flanges tomorrow and see if I can install the radiator without help. I will report back if I get that far. Fred

I do have something to share for anyone interested in belted tracks. I found this company in Reno, Nevada that makes replacement belting for Snow Cats. I spoke with Rich there and sent him a drawing but they require dimensions on there PDF to quote or make belts and that is a little above my ability right now. There is a pattern in there system for 3.5” Weasel belt already from years ago. There belts are new high tensile (premium) strength material. Machine cut and the cuts sealed. All holes are pre drilled or laser cut. It was some time since we spoke and some details are not clear to my memory. I’ve planned to get back to them when I’m ready but maybe someone can use this information now and knows how to create the pattern on the PDF. This company also can refurbished wheels and sprockets but this is most likely done with urethane. Following is the contact information. He is very informative and they have experience in the belting for tracks. Rich Cummins rich@fallline.com 800-325-5463 www.fallline.com I have not purchased anything from them yet but they seem to have the knowledge and experience we would be interested in.

Hi Patrick, I’ve gotten back to following your March Madness YouTube’s lately and see the new machine in the stable. I do not know if this pertains to driving on the worn tracks. I have a set of tracks with the metal weasel lugs replacing the outer bands. This set has groups of grousers that are ripping and cracked severely in the center. Others have angle iron to reinforce the center rib. I think what happened was someone tried to keep driving after the inner bands failed. Many of these grousers were bound together with barb wire fence strands. It caused severe damage to otherwise seemingly solid parts. I thought of this when you mentioned the track sounded like it was slipping. This could be a precursor to damage. I’m passing on my observation of what I have found. Maybe with all rubber belts they will rip all at one time and cause minimal damage, just leave you stranded. Good luck. Have fun. Fred

Byron, it sure looks like there is some good history near by you. You give us a history lesson too. Thank you for that. On the sub axle pivot tube reinforcement I wonder how deep into the hull you would recommend the extra solid bar. Yesterday I took mine apart to clean and measure and it seems there could be a few schools of thought. I’m thinking of installing bar stock into the hull but where to stop. If it extends into the hull as much as it is in the external stub it should give it plenty of strength. If it bends in the middle I think that would have been a serious accident.

Has anyone tried to run a heater hose from the water pump taping to the tapping in the top back of the head. That is how the heater core is plumbed in a car. I am looking for some answers to this from the local Studebaker club members. They drive there cars mostly in the summer around here. Years ago these Champion engines were used in the midget race cars. It was popular and fast from the stories I heard 40 years ago. I saved some car pictures and a race car picture. In the race car the cooling system is heavily modified. I’m thinking there is something to moving more coolant through the head.

Hi Byron, the videos looked like your enjoying the ride. She sure sounds different with those tracks. It reminds me of studded snow tire hum on the pavement. I’m including a picture of the stay rods on our machine before disassembly. It was a mod to about the last 1000 weasels. Maybe a weakness was noticed on the final drive. Thats why I posted about the cracks or casting marks on the webbing of my final drive case. It certainly would beef up the back like you strengthen the front snubs for the idler. Especially if you tighten the tracks more that usual. Fred

Hi Byron, I like the steel bar in the front stub axle to keep it straight. Is this area a known weak point. I never gave it any thought. It makes sense that if I drive into something or up a steep embankment undue pressure can be placed on that point. Your cowling turned looks like it should. Great job. Fred

John, the lettering is a nice touch. I like the idea of keeping the history. The Letterkenny tag is real special. I assume that is the name of the inspector that accepted the rebuild, like the name on the lower corner of the original data plates. WELL DONE If you could do us a favor. I’m very interested in how your cooling system handles the extreme heat and how it is set up. We have summer weather that gets nearly as warm as you. That information will be important to me one day. Fred

John, Thanks for the update. It’s a good lesson. These small parts may have been bent or exposed to the elements for many years and compromised. I have found many cracked lock washers, just due to age or poor quality I imagine. Also I have noticed a bronze thrust washer in the capstan that broke but obviously not over used. You are right that it could be problematic on the water. I’ve been thinking when the day comes for us to check the hull I will take off all the covers and park the Weasel in the lake a few hours to check for water leaks. My work friends tease me that I should invest in a case of Flex Seal. Fred

Well done John. Well done!

Thank you for sharing the wiper in operation. I have never seen that, for me that will be a big day when I can do the same. I was wondering what you did for the cord/ whip on the motor for the electric supply. The metal braided cover looks newer. The whips I have do not look very good and I do not trust the insulation on the old wires through out the machine. I would hate to go through all this work and have an electrical fire. 40 years ago I had an old VW burn up because of bad wire in the rocker panel. It would be a shame to repeat that incident. Fred

Great find John. Thank you for sharing the wiring issue and where to find an answer. I need to mark this one in the book. It is a good example that at times it’s necessary to look deeper for an answer. Years ago we have found inaccurate information in the motor manuals as well. Not only is it important to follow instructions but also to use the troubleshooting guide to locate an issue. Your looking good. It will be fun to hear it run. Fred

It’s looking like in the manuals now. Thanks for so much of the how to ideas. Fred

Thank you for a great way to restore the data plates. Yours look real good. That has always been on my mind. I hoped someone would share something on the subject. Also the fuel pump work is encouraging. I have not looked at one yet. I just put the tank on a shelf and will look at it later. Fred

Byron, Looking good. Funny how I’m beginning to recognize different parts. I’ve only been at this about a year now. My bogies rolled nice for me I didn’t take them out to inspect. Everything filled with grease. For now I didn’t want to deal with the seals. After looking at return roller seal damage from my spare parts I’m having second thought. I think we will take a set apart and see what they look like. Thanks Fred

IMG_6060.MOV I am getting the final drive ready to install in the hull. Today I made gaskets from paper bulk material. I’d like to share how we were taught back in our school days shop class. This is fast and accurate. I apologize the pictures didn’t load in the order I wanted. The large piece of tin is the cover we made for sand blasting. This made a good pattern for the outside of the gasket. It’s not necessary though since the outside can be cut in the same fashion. Hopefully this can be helpful to someone. It took about 2 hours to make this gasket as well as the two flanges for the axle tubes. No measuring is needed and the holes all line up. Before installing I will brush some edges with fine sand paper for good measure. Fred IMG_6061.MOV