OZM29C

I can vouch that the wiring sockets are spot on. Rob sent my set over to Vintage wiring of Maine where they were incorporated into my weasel wiring harness.

You only have two options for Bogey seals. Find a supplier of NOS seals that are getting harder to find and more expensive nowadays or use the CR (now SKF) 12391 seal. https://www.skf.com/au/products/industrial-seals/power-transmission-seals/radial-shaft-seals/productid-12391

Fortunately I found my USA number on the hull side which helped identify my weasel. Apart from the USA number, all other data plates and hull tags etc were missing. On the old weasel forum I posted my USA number and was surprised to find that Jim Gilmore had the sister to my weasel. That gave me the ORD number for mine and I had to take a guesstimate on my Hull tag. As my weasel was a Letterkenny rebuild I opted to use a NOS post war ORD plate and I had Robert at Data Plates 4 U https://dataplates4u.com/ make a replacement Hull tag. I also had my stencils made by this company in the UK. https://www.axholmesigns.co.uk/ Weasel Stencils - Final draft.pdf

The rear float tank has been finished off by a professional panel beater and is now in primer ready for a final coat of paint.

I also had to replace the rear of the tank in its entirety. I could not resist test fitting my NOS rudders.

I then cutout, rolled and fitted/welded more patch panels into the tank.

I don't have the old seal anymore to measure the OD but the shaft is 38.1mm

I then set about repairing the corroded hull/tank mounting sections

I then fabricated a new lower section for the tank. I used zinc annealed mild steel sheet to help preserve the interior of the tank.

The following photographs and comments describe how I repaired the rear float tank. I started work on this tank in June 2014 and finally finished the job in 2018. The first job was to cut out all of the rusted sections of sheet metal.

When I rebuilt my weasel T84 transmission I was unable to find a replacement seal for the transmission output shaft. I decided to modify the transmission to accept a generic off the shelf common metric Viton oil seal. In the time since I did the modification a fellow Aussi ex pat now living in the US of A found a replacement OEM style seal. Here is a copy of his post from the G503 forum; The seal is used in the 1939-1947 Studebaker overdrive unit. Nobody lists this seal as a transmission seal Studebakerparts.com carry this seal in stock Their part number 198975 Or GRS020 Same seal Different areas on their website use the different numbers Seals are $20.00 each Seal is excellent quality and their service is excellent Hope this helps

When I rebuilt my weasel carburettor, the NOS plunger had dried and shrivelled rendering it completely unusable. I found a company that could supply a replacement plunger. I would like to share below, both the company details and a very useful snippet of information that may be of help to weasel owners. Please note that the Plunger supplied is just that. It has to be retrofitted onto the original piston? An easy job. Cheers John W. Weasel Carby Page 2.pdfWeasel Carby Page 1.pdf John! We also make our own basic repair kit for the Carter BBR-1 Weasel military carburetor. The original Leather is a "chromed" leather ( a special process to add extended use for the leather, resulting in a purplish color). This is the best you can do for any type of gasoline, E10 or otherwise. The issue with any accel pump is the continual contact with gasoline. Any carb accel pump will not give good service in applications that are continually setting and drying out, regardless of the carb make and model! This is just the way it is. Leather pumps will give excellent service, as well as more modern flurocarbon rubber pump cups, as long as they stay immersed in gasoline. When they set and dry out, the leather shrinks and it must be re-immersed in gas for a few minutes before use, to expand to their original working diameter in the pump well. So, to help with this problem, you can simply change the method you use to restart an engine that has set for a few weeks: DO NOT immediately start pumping the accellerator pedal when re-starting the engine. Just crank the engine over, for say 15-20 seconds, to allow the fuel pump to fill the bowl of the carb with gas. Then let it set for at least 10 minutes. This will allow the fresh fuel in the bowl to also fill the pump chamber and allow the leather to re-expand to its normal working diameter. This method, with any leather pump, will allow it to give you much longer service life. When the leather on the pump shrinks it is not in contact with the sidewall of the pump well; when the engine starts, the vacuum actuated accel pump in the Weasel carb preloads the leather portion upwards, and when accellerating, vacuum drops on the piston head of the pump, and the spring causes the pump to move downward and discharge a shot of fuel. If the leather portion has not had time to soak up fuel and expand in the pump well, the force against the liquid fuel will cause the leather to "roll over" and ruin the pump. This is a common cause of leather pump failure; not because the leather is not good, but it cannot do its job is it is not fully expanded and sealed against the side wall of the pump well. So, a little patience can greatly extend the useful life of any leather pump. Our part #156A is made for the Weasel carburetors. This item costs $10 ea + shipping to AUS. I hope some of the information helps you, and if you are still not sure of the above explanation, let me know. Thank You! RON HEWITT DAYTONA PARTS COMPANY 1191 TURNBULL BAY ROAD NEW SMYRNA BEACH, FL 32168 PH:386-427-7108 FX:386-423-8528 www.daytonaparts.com

To improve the rigidity of the replacement floor/sponson, I opted to use 1.5mm thick sheet in lieu of the OEM 1.2mm sheet. Visually you would never know the difference.

BZ on your excellent work 🙂 I had the same problem with short sheets. I made the join under the engine bulkhead. The bulkhead flange helped to reduce the sheet metal warpage from welding and looking from above the join was invisible.

Here is a page from Consolidated Industries that highlights their new track design. One design is similar to what is pictured above.

Yes that is a picture of 1002

The track apron brace retainer clips were originally riveted in place. Unfortunately the rivets had frozen solid with rust which meant that I had to drill all of them out. Rather than re rivet them I have opted to hold the retainer clips in place with M8 button head screws.

A well know Weasel floater owner purchased a set of split pins needed to retain the track aprons. I fitted R clips to the ends of the split pins so that they would not vibrate out and be lost.

Some of the split pin retainers had broken off, so I machined a number of replacements and welded them back in place.

The photos below better show the work needed to restore my track aprons.

Back in 2008 and purely by chance I found five pairs of track aprons here in Australia. They say in life that you have to have a win sometimes and in this case it was finding my track Aprons. As you know track aprons are made of unobtainium and I was not sure at that time what I was going to do to find a set for my weasel. Just digressing from the story, In 2007 my offsider and I brought into the country a dilapidated M29C floater. Anyway before we brought it down to my place, my offsider took it to put on display at a Studebaker Car meet on the Gold Coast. During that meet a fellow walked up, pointed at the surf shield on the front float tank and said that he knew where another one was. The only other surf shield I know of that was available in Australia was from a Amphibious GPA Jeep. Email addresses were exchanged and a few weeks later a photo arrived showing a weasel surf shield. From what I can gather, five m29C weasels were imported into Australia in the late 1940's to be used as ski tows. Here is an interesting link to their story; http://australianalpinoversnow.blogspot.com/2011/09/m29-weasel.html Before being modified most of the amphibious gear was dumped. And that's where it stayed until we recovered it many years later. Included in the booty were rudders, water ejectors ventilator lids, floor panels and a surf shield.

Yes that hat channel cut out is original. It carries over into the M29C. I am not sure why it is there though???

That concludes this post. The photo below shows both my front float tank and track aprons loaded up to take up to friend of mine who is a tradesman panel beater for some TLC. I should have the tanks and track aprons back next month.

I forgot to add that I had hours of fun making the square style nuts that weld to the tank.

Now I fitted the last of the patch panels.