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Jesse Browning

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Everything posted by Jesse Browning

  1. Interesting that your leg rests against that. My leg rests against the insulation above and in front of that. I would imagine that area to get hot as it is the heater duct. Seriously though, stuff something in it to block the flow of hot air.
  2. So, what was the cause of the lack of oil pressure? The dislodged seal at the oil pump outlet?
  3. Try Mcmaster Carr for the hinges. I made all my own for 2 weasels.
  4. I think the 55 is a good choice. Both the 56 and 55 grousers will work with that. I had some 55 grousers and tried to use them with a 56 punched belt. It tore up the edges of the grousers.
  5. When you get it out, make sure the marks on the timing gears are lined up.
  6. When at rest, the oil level is below the laberynth seal. If you over fill the oil, it will run out there. As for the dibris, maybe it’s coming from inside the bell housing. The clutch makes a lot of dust and junk. If your going to pull the engine, I would wait until further inspection before trying to start it.
  7. I put a piece of masking tape over the #1 spark plug hole. When it ‘pops” off you are close enough to start looking for the timing mark, or like Patrick says, run it.
  8. Shouldn’t the distributor just lift out without removing any gears? Its been a long time since I worked on a weasel.
  9. Ive learned that “rebuilt engine” can mean just about anything. Sometimes it means “new spark plugs”. Once it meant that they pulled the head, and honed the cylinders with the pistons still in them. The honing compound was dripping down into the oil pan. That engine wouldn’t have ran long. Another time, the engine sat in a machine shop after ”rebuild”. It was full of metal chips, and mice, and had a water pump hole drilled too deep, and into one of the cylinders. I never run an engine, from any source, until it has been completely disassembled and gone thorough by me. If a seller says he’ll “get it running” first, it’s a deal breaker. The worst thing you can do with an engine that has sat for many years is to run it. Not that I’m any genius, I just want it done right. I dont want my customers coming back to me with complaints.
  10. From what you have described, definitely verify that the spark plug wires are correct, and timing is correct. Try starting it with starting fluid.
  11. Sorry you had trouble getting that off. I wonder if the machine shop took that off, or just removed the whole camshaft with it still attached? At least you know the plug is there.
  12. It should just slip off the shaft. The valve springs are going to be a hindrance. Maybe try to turn the camshaft so the gears will un-mesh.
  13. Are there threaded holes in the pulley for that type of puller?. Pulling from the belt grooves is never good.
  14. At this point, you could blow compressed air into the oil gallery, and see how much of it comes out of the drain from the timing gears. If all/most of it blows out there, the plug is missing.
  15. There really doesnt need to be a gasket between the oil pickup and block. It should be a very close tolerance fit, and some Permatex should be sufficient. BTW, I started a fresh rebuilt International Harvester halftrack engine today. No problems.
  16. Nothing bonehead about making the effort to tackle a project like that. The oil pump to block connection usually uses a very thin paper gasket. Those are usually machined surfaces. Almost like they are matched. Sometimes a cork gasket with sealant on it will try to squeeze out the side of the connection. Maybe it squeezed out and is blocking the hole. Just guessing. I had a CCKW that had no oil pressure after rebuild. The distributor shaft wasnt fully seated. It was seated enough for the distributor to work, but not enough to engage the oil pump shaft. Always something.
  17. Is it possible that something went wrong with the oil pick up during assembly. Maybe it fell off? Things happen. Did you take the screen off and clean it out, then blow air through it? Or, was that the machine shops job?
  18. I always use STP or equivalent on every moving part during assembly. Oil pumps, even new ones are cleaned in kerosene then blown out, so very little liquid at all in them. They still pick up.
  19. I dont think the position of the key way will have any affect on the oil pump. The rotor in the distributor will be 180 degrees off.
  20. Ive never had to prime an oil pump on any engine Ive rebuilt. They should suck up the oil. Its hard to tell anything by that picture.
  21. Seems like the machine shop should send a guy over to do that for you.
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