New build no oil pressure

[Jesse Browning]

I always use STP or equivalent on every moving part during assembly. Oil pumps, even new ones are cleaned in kerosene then blown out, so very little liquid at all in them. They still pick up. 

[Jesse Browning]

Is it possible that something went wrong with the oil pick up during assembly. Maybe it fell off?  Things happen. Did you take the screen off and clean it out, then blow air through it?  Or, was that the machine shops job?  

[Bravo28]

I cleaned pickup screen and tube. I did use cork gasket material for a tube to block assembly(maybe losing the pressure there?)

Yes, agreed. Will be checking for gallery plugs and the pickup screen/tube. Ordering gaskets for a gear cover and oil pan redo and correct pickup tube gasket. Will let you know, Tue. or Wed. what bonehead thing I did. 

I can hear my old Drill Sergeant - First time engine rebuild - Trooper, you are a No-Go at this station. Ha.

Thank you gentlemen for taking time from your days and quick responses to help me. I greatly appreciate it. First round of liquid refreshments on me.

[Patrick Tipton]

Looking forward to hearing your success.

FWIW, last rebuild on an M29 engine...and I could not get the damn thing to run.  After about 2 days of frustration and backfiring, finally realized I had the firing order backwards....big bonehead move.  Twenty seconds later, purring like a kitten.

[Bravo28]

🤣Patrick, I remember that video and the dance of triumph!

Hoping to be dancing soon.

[Jesse Browning]

Nothing bonehead about making the effort to tackle a project like that. The oil pump to block connection usually uses a very thin paper gasket. Those are usually machined surfaces. Almost like they are matched. Sometimes a cork gasket with sealant on it will try to squeeze out the side of the connection. Maybe it squeezed out and is blocking the hole. Just guessing. I had a CCKW that had no oil pressure after rebuild. The distributor shaft wasnt fully seated. It was seated enough for the distributor to work, but not enough to engage the oil pump shaft. Always something.

[Bravo28]

Just a small update.

Popped off the oil pan and screen assembly. Looks like my support arm gasket may be the culprit. I could see a gap between the arm and block. Waiting for gaskets, we'll see.

[OZM29C]

On 2/4/2024 at 5:54 AM, Bravo28 said:

Visited machine shop and they actually had this. Barely noticeable, but would shiny element be the plug?

Recommended lubricate to get pump coated perhaps to create some pressure within galleries? I think I messed up by not initially priming the pump. Would I be able to correct that as it sits?

Owner agreed to swing by and take a look. 

@Bravo28 You are a brave man by choosing to run a phenolic camshaft timing gear. Might I suggest that you take the opportunity to change out to an after market Aluminium timing gear. One of forum members @Byron came to grief after a short time with a phenolic NOS camshaft timing gear having been stripped of its drive teeth. At this point of time I just can't find @Byron's report on this disaster. 

[Jesse Browning]

There really doesnt need to be a gasket between the oil pickup and block. It should be a very close tolerance fit, and some Permatex should be sufficient. BTW, I started a fresh rebuilt International Harvester halftrack engine today. No problems.

[Jesse Browning]

At this point, you could blow compressed air into the oil gallery, and see how much of it comes out of the drain from the timing gears. If all/most of it blows out there, the plug is missing.

[Bravo28]

I noted the tight fit between the arm and block - thought, ah this should do given how tight it is. 🤦‍♂️ Placed the order for it on Tue. Should be here anytime.

Since the engine is still on a stand and seeing I might have to pull the gear cover off, seriously considering the aluminum gear.

1. Is it a matter of swapping the gears or is there more to it?

2. Looking at Studebaker Intl catalogue and reading previous posts it seems the '39-'54 part no.532125x is the one. I am working with a '55 Letter Kenny rebuild so original parts may have already  been nixed. Would thus matter?

[Patrick Tipton]

I like Jesse's air pressure idea to check the plug.

No magic on changing the gear.  Studebaker Intl does sell them....can't find the catalog but that '39-'54 is right.  Letterkenny used the original Weasel motors, so no worries there.

 

[Bravo28]

Here she is!🤣

Leaning towards the upgraded gear. I guess I'll see if the plug is there once the cover is off. Oh, but it looks soo pretty all put together.

[Patrick Tipton]

Good news is that timing gear failure just means the engine stops...no biggie if you choose to wait.  But it does require pulling the motor out of the Weasel...which isn't that big of a deal, but it is a deal!

Look forward to video of it running....with oil pressure!

[F-D Zernia]

I was able to find an aluminum timing gear from StudebakerParts.com and just checked the website. It is still available. Russ is very knowledgeable and willing to talk. He has a little Weasel knowledge too. 

[Bravo28]

While I'm waiting on aluminum Camshaft gear (arrives tomorrow), I got busy with this fun guy. These 3 tools really helped. Got late/dark so oil pan and gear tomorrow. Cheers!

[Patrick Tipton]

All progress is good. 

You may know about this tool already..... but you can make beautiful little safety wire ties with these handy dandy pliers.  They used to be relatively expensive (think I paid $80 a good while ago for a nice pair), but Horror Freight has a $10 pair.....makes it fun to safety wire stuff!

[Bravo28]

Horror freight. Haha love it. Will check it out. 

Tried the gear puller I have, but hooks are too thick and don't grab on. Thinking of washers behind the gear so the screw type puller can be used. Hopeful the weekend brings more progress.

[Jesse Browning]

Are there threaded holes in the pulley for that type of puller?. Pulling from the belt grooves is never good. 

[darth_kitten]

I think it is threaded. Yeah, don't pull on the belt grooves...

[Bravo28]

Was able to get a good grip with puller, but would not budge.

Ok, goofy question.Since the grooves are angled, does the small gear also come off in order to replace the camshaft gear?

[Jesse Browning]

It should just slip off the shaft. The valve springs are going to be a hindrance. Maybe try to turn the camshaft so the gears will un-mesh.

[Patrick Tipton]

Just to give you a little comfort(?) that all you are fighting with is a woodruff key and 80 years of being in the same spot!  I am rebuilding a Weasel engine right now...this fiber gear was already broken off - so no concern about ruining something....still a bear to remove it.

 

[Bravo28]

Sad to report, the woodruff key and the 80 years won today. I was able to get the gear down to the metal sleeve around the shaft. That sleeve would absolutely not budge.  Ok, sleeve, meet Mr. Grinder and Mr. Metal cutter. Welp- ordering a replacement shaft and assorted gaskets for a camshaft replacement. Cheers.🤣🍻

[Patrick Tipton]

Sorry - not a fun outcome, but so be it.  Onward! 

I had a pretty rough time getting mine off....used quite a bit of heat and penetrant and a slide hammer to get it off. 
 

Keep us posted.

Patrick