OZM29C

Here is another photo for future reference. It shows the contents of an Arctic Heater Kit. @Patrick TiptonPatrick I could not find this photo using the search function however if the photo has been posted previously, please delete this post. The manual has already been uploaded on this forum.

@Patrick TiptonEspecially when I have driven a grand total of 28miles in the last year. Take a lot of convincing that I got value for money by spending over $5 grand having the motor rebuilt. 🤑🤑🤑

@Patrick TiptonSo true Patrick. My engine was badly corroded in way of the cylinders and valves that necessitated a good deal of metal surgery.

@D.R.H.The colour is 'Pewter'. It is a commercially available industrial paint here in Oz. The engine rebuilder paints all of his reconditioned GPW engines in that same colour. I have installed the engine as is. As you know there is not much to be see of the engine when its tucked away down in the lower hull.

@D.R.H.Just did a random search of Studebaker parts vendors and it appears that 0.060" OS pistons are available, however can I suggest that you should seek advice from a reputable Engine reconditioning shop on what is the best option for your motor. In my case, the engine had sleeves fitted that returned the motor back to a standard bore. One small tip I got from my engine rebuilder was to let them assemble the motor. That way they can ensure that all fits, tolerances and clearances are correct. I understand that others do prefer to do their own assembly work but in the overall scheme of things, the assembly cost is only a fraction of the total engine reconditioning cost. In my case I chose to have the engine assembled in the shop. I received a turn key engine from them with a Workmanship Warranty. Piece of mind when I had spent over $5000 in total on the engine.

@Patrick TiptonPatrick, I do agree with your initial report that more testing needs to follow. There appears to be a lot more vibration for want of a better word when comparing the prototype French track with your OEM track. It appears that the vibration is coming from both the bogey wheels falling into the belt cavity between the two grousers and the timing between the track sprocket and the track appears to be not quite right. Having said that, the track does need to be tensioned so that might help to alleviate some of those problems. Look forward to seeing more progress reports.

@dragon Sorry can't help with the fuel sender unit but you might want to try Brian Asbury in Canada for spotlight parts. He may still have some stock. Details attached. Brian Asbury 1.pdf Brian Asbury 2.pdf

Finally I had to drill a hole in the instrument panel to allow the accelerator connection rod to pass through. I got the hole location a bit off centre so I had to elongate the hole. The modified accelerator assembly works great. Cheers. JW

Here you can see the linkage rod cover plate fitted to the instrument panel

The next photo shows the cut-out made in the instrument panel and the modified bell crank support. The OEM bell crank is re-used in this mod. Disregard the accelerator return spring and bracket. I relocated these for ease of access.

The next photo shows the cut-out made in the ventilator lid.

Second photo partially shows the cut-out that I have made in the drivers side air deflector panel and the linkage rod.

A Weasel owner over on the Weasel FB forum asked for some photos of the Accelerator mod that I have retrofitted to my weasel. I thought that I would capture the information here on this forum first in the hope that future weasel restorers can use this information as a reference. The first photo shows a comparison between a modified accelerator pedal and an OEM accelerator pedal. Top pedal is OEM, bottom pedal has been modified. I have also posted a copy of the MWO that came with my mod kit. MWO ORD G179-W9.pdf

@Beepbeep@42rocker As promised, please find attached a scan of the Norwegian track sprocket drawing. I must apologise in having to scan the drawing over two pages. It was just too big for my A3 sized scanner. All of the dimensions are in metric but having said that if you need to convert back to the old imperial units (albeit decimal units) then divide the metric dimension by 25.4. 25.4mm = 1 inch. Cheers. Sprocket Page One.pdf Sprocket Page Two.pdf

@BeepbeepI did indeed. I can scan it for you on Tuesday. I will have to use my scanner at work as the drawing is way bigger than my A4 sized scanner here at home.

@rml1708Gary Szechy from Gary's Bunker https://www.garysbunker.com/product-category/m29-parts/ did manufacture a very limited production run of the short wiper link. It would be worth asking the question to see if Gary could again reproduce this short wiper arm?

@Dake20I reckon that if you copy the snake river 4x4 outer bands, that will see you up and mobile in no time flat. https://snakeriver4x4.com/weasel-parts BTW Snake River don't make the bands any more

I put this report up on the Weasel FB page but as there was a common theme regarding this problem as reported by other weasel owners, I thought that it would be best to capture the information here on the forum. Started my weasel engine for the first time since a marathon 8 mile drive 😀 down to local lake and back on the previous weekend. See attached video. I found that the exhaust flange gasket had disintegrated and the exhaust was 'chuffing' into the engine compartment. I had made a gasket from non asbestos compressed gasket material but it appears that it was not the right choice of gasket material. I have ordered a Studebaker OEM gasket to replace the blown gasket. Hopefully the replacement gasket will be more resistant to the heat. 84671773_WeaselatYarrielake.mp4

@F-D ZerniaWeasels are a labour of love and your repairs are a living testament to that statement. I went the extra mile and machined grease ways in my selector shafts. Getting that shift mechanism initially apart was a nightmare however with the added grease ways the next custodian will have no trouble getting it apart. As an added bonus though, shifting is smooth.

That's interesting👍Just out of curiosity, does/do the OEM drawing/s show a general layout for the HT wire and then specifies the individual lengths or are there 7 different drawings for each individual HT wire? BTW my question is not an indirect way of asking you to post a copy of your drawing.

@Patrick TiptonMight be a good thread to make as a sticky? I am sure that other members would have stories to tell. Glad to see that you got some kind of resolution to your complaint through Fleabay.

@D.R.H.A very functional track repair. Well done👍 One quick question though, what are your plans to restore the grouser blocks?

Speaking of track links, I found this style of track joiner (dozens of them) on a rubbish dump up near the Aussi snow fields. I believe that they were made locally to repair the tracks on the weasels that were used as ski tows back in the 50's.

@Patrick TiptonI'll second that Patrick👍That's exactly what I did with my restoration. Having said that, a nice touch would be to include the HT wire guide.

@Lighthorse 31Cant offer much advice on the T86. Having said that if you were to again use the T84 and looking at your photos, you will have to replace the drive/propeller/tailshaft with OEM. The T84 does share some internals with the standard MB/GPW Jeep T84. Namely the Synchroniser assembly, 1st gear, 2nd gear, reverse idler gear(with shaft) and the cluster gear (with shaft and some modifications). The main drive gear and mainshaft are unique to the Weasel. I have attached 2 photos showing the thicker cluster gear thrust washer that I fitted in order to use a standard MB/GPW Jeep cluster gear.