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Posted
On 6/18/2020 at 2:09 PM, F.Janssen said:

Hi all,

Does somebody have a picture of the decal below the ignition switch.

1088024656_ScreenShot2020-09-10at6_44_22AM.thumb.png.aae26331c90492baaa7e0073c78110c7.png

 

Here you go.  Not totally easy to see, but IGN  OFF HEATER

The picture in the manual looks like the decal has a darker outline which looks to have been painted over in the picture....

Posted
On 9/10/2020 at 12:46 PM, Patrick Tipton said:

1088024656_ScreenShot2020-09-10at6_44_22AM.thumb.png.aae26331c90492baaa7e0073c78110c7.png

 

Here you go.  Not totally easy to see, but IGN  OFF HEATER

The picture in the manual looks like the decal has a darker outline which looks to have been painted over in the picture....

Many thanks!

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

IMG_20200912_1500425.thumb.jpg.4976e98fd83519e1f8974cc398be1498.jpgI made some significant progress on the Weasel.
It took me a saturday from 0900hrs to 1500hrs, but now everything is removed up to the mid section divider.
Remaining only the bubby headlights, Swedish modification and some hinges to be removed.

The engine looks to be in pretty decent shape with only some stuck valves, but further investigation needs to tell.
Now the task of cleaning and preservation will start.

Also the fuel sender is assembled, but only need to get the correct size rivets.
Some before and after....

I started to get all the tabs of the radiator straight again, but it seems not to be an original Studebaker Weasel radiator.
Does anybody recognise this one?

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Edited by F.Janssen
  • Like 2
Posted

That's some really nice work on the fuel sending gauge.  I am planning on opening mine up. It was nice to see your picture of the inside. What are you using for rivets to for the cover to the flange? Also it looks like you replaced the tube. Is it soldered in? I have one good gear so will need to replace one. I have another gauge for a different vehicle I was thinking I could use the gears. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.

Dan

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gm fuel sender.jpg

Posted
On 9/16/2020 at 1:39 PM, M29 said:

That's some really nice work on the fuel sending gauge.  I am planning on opening mine up. It was nice to see your picture of the inside. What are you using for rivets to for the cover to the flange? Also it looks like you replaced the tube. Is it soldered in? I have one good gear so will need to replace one. I have another gauge for a different vehicle I was thinking I could use the gears. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks Dan.

I'm going to use aluminium rivets.  
They are avaialble in 3mm x 8mm lenght. Which I think should fit, but I need to order them still.

I did not replace the entire tube.
I cut the tube below the sending unit (red marked position), and welded a new piece of pipe on it.Capture1.thumb.JPG.91ccf07258d75223bc235614dabb4b75.JPG

Yes the tube is soldered in.
The tube is soldered on the TOP part of the sending unit (blue circled). 

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I found that the gears are all brass (or similar).
I can't see how bad your's are, but mine were good salvagable and needed only a good clean.
All gears were soldered to their brass bars

Main advice would be to take care with the heat for soldering.
I had a part of the unit still assembled which included paper etc.

Furthermore I'm going to reuse the cork float.
In case you need to replace it, there are pieces of floating equipment available which are petrol resistant. 

Posted

Thanks for the information Frank. I will post pictures of my sender when I get started on repairing it.I found another sender on Ebay and bought it for the gears.and float. The top is a different style so nothing I can use there. Anyway looking forward to getting it cleaned up and hopefully work again.

Dan

gm fuel sender.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Engine disassembled with only the camshaft remaining.

First engine parts cleaned.

The bracket to connect the gas cable has been modified.
Can someone share a picture how this needs to look like?

Furthermore, the top connection on the oil filling pipe (as on the picture), was not connected to anything when it was on the engine.
To where does this pipe need to connect to?

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  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I think this picture will answer your question.

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The top pipe on the filler tube connects to the carburetor air horn. You can also see how the throttle linkage should look like.

Edited by M29C3284
  • Thanks 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

next items cleaned and ready for paint.

Waterpump, which is looking very good.
I think it has been overhauled just before not using the weasel ever again.

Hand controls, which is coming apart well and nothing seems seized.
Only issue is the main axle which is bended.
The Steel Lever Collar is loose, but not allowing the bended shaft to pass.
So some heat and a press is needed, to be continued. 

IMG_20201006_1836430.thumb.jpg.6de5f3c8f42b4edac615f61c42948407.jpg

 

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  • Like 1
  • 2 months later...
Posted

I have been away for work for a while so very limited works been done...

I needed to halt the assembly of the controls as I'm lacking about 3 bushings.
Need to see if I can find these somewhere or will fabricate some.

Have the oil filter done and the oil pump.

next up...?

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  • Like 1
Posted

I could not find any imperial size split bushings when I did mine. So I used metric bushings, which I filed the split so the bushing would fit the hole and then reamed them to size. 

  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)
On 12/23/2020 at 8:26 PM, Byron said:

Great to go through all these pictures as see your Progress. Great jobs on the sender units 👌 this will be a job for me soon. 
cheers, Byron

Thanks,
I think I need to redo some parts of the sender unit, I made a mistake with some anti-corrosion stuff, which is now a kind of making everything corroding even faster....

anyway, overhauled the carb, which only needs some final parts yet.

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Edited by F.Janssen
  • Like 1
Posted

Can I offer a suggestion, discard your old Phenolic Camshaft timing gear and fit a new Aluminium gear. Its a lot of work to replace a camshaft timing gear should you have a failure!

Alumimium timin gear.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

These measurement are from the original Studebaker drawing.

A: 76,2 mm

B: 38,1 mm

C: 6,35 mm

D: 5,1 mm

The angle between A and B is 74 degrees. And the hole for the pivot bolt should be reamed to 9,51-9,53 mm.

Hope this helps.

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Thank you!

Seems that they have lengthened the legs by making a cut and welding a piece in between.

The holes and angle all seem to suit these measurements.
Some cutting and welding to do....

 

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

I got a lot of small jobs done.
The rods for high/low and the short steering rods have been cleaned and are ready for green paint.
The shifting rods needs some work, as they cut the forks, extended them, and rewelded.

Most of the panels I have are ready for sandblasting.
I'm looking for some pictures on the 3/8" bolts that are spotwelded to the engine panel, on which the wing nuts are for locking of the engine cover.
Anyone a picture from the rear side?
Also looking for the length of the bolts.

Assembled the water pump, only waiting for the fan to be dry. 

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