F.Janssen Posted March 21, 2021 Author Posted March 21, 2021 (edited) I had quite a productive day. Having the guide wheels removed. And also having the idler wheels off. These came off very easy, and I'm happy to not having to do a lot of work on the axle. The carrier / arm needs some TLC as they have weld the grease hole shut....and it has a lot of wear. Edit: Although it now comes to my mind, that this is already a replacement as it is a solid rod. This as the originals are tubed. Inside the tub, only the final drive is remaining... Edited March 21, 2021 by F.Janssen 2 Quote
Patrick Tipton Posted March 21, 2021 Posted March 21, 2021 Looking good! One little task at a time, done well.... Keep it up. Quote
F.Janssen Posted March 22, 2021 Author Posted March 22, 2021 @Will Dodge Yes, I need to re-rubber. Rubber on them is very bad and will not last long...@Patrick Tipton One small step at the time indeed. That also make the whole process more clear. And as space is my big issue, I can get stuff finished and out of the way for the next. Quote
F.Janssen Posted May 13, 2021 Author Posted May 13, 2021 (edited) Not a lot of work done last month. Had to travel for work so Weasel has been silent. Anyway got some new items for the Weasel. Engine cover which needed some repairs. Have a rear floor panel, which needs some repairs in the future, but mainly new footman loops. Looking for some advice on the color. As my Weasel is an M29C everything was olive drab off factory. Anyway a lot of recent purchased items are white. What shall I do, repair and repaint in white, or stick with the factory olive drab color. Edited May 13, 2021 by F.Janssen 1 Quote
Byron Posted June 20, 2021 Posted June 20, 2021 On 2/1/2021 at 9:09 PM, OZM29C said: Can I offer a suggestion, discard your old Phenolic Camshaft timing gear and fit a new Aluminium gear. Its a lot of work to replace a camshaft timing gear should you have a failure! Can I second John’s opinion though Experience Quote
RAS1 Posted June 21, 2021 Posted June 21, 2021 6 hours ago, Byron said: Can I second John’s opinion though Experience Where do you buy the aluminum gear? Part number? Thanks Dave Quote
OZM29C Posted June 21, 2021 Posted June 21, 2021 52 minutes ago, RAS1 said: Where do you buy the aluminum gear? Part number? Thanks Dave @RAS1Dave, here is one Vendor, I am sure that there are many more; https://www.studebakerparts.com/studebakerparts/store/s/agora.cgi?product=engine3 1 Quote
F.Janssen Posted June 24, 2021 Author Posted June 24, 2021 On 6/21/2021 at 7:04 AM, OZM29C said: @RAS1Dave, here is one Vendor, I am sure that there are many more; https://www.studebakerparts.com/studebakerparts/store/s/agora.cgi?product=engine3 I did some business with the vendor in this link (valves and gasket set) and I was very pleased with their assistance and service. Quote
F.Janssen Posted June 24, 2021 Author Posted June 24, 2021 Finally got some time to do some small things on the weasel again. 4 Quote
RAS1 Posted June 26, 2021 Posted June 26, 2021 On 6/24/2021 at 1:47 PM, F.Janssen said: Finally got some time to do some small things on the weasel again. Looks great! Did you reproduce the ign. Switch decal? I would like to buy one or get the file. Dave Quote
F.Janssen Posted June 29, 2021 Author Posted June 29, 2021 On 6/26/2021 at 5:34 AM, RAS1 said: Looks great! Did you reproduce the ign. Switch decal? I would like to buy one or get the file. Dave Hi Dave, Yes it is reproduced. Let me check if I can get the file, as I did not made it myself. It is made as a decal, same as you use in model building. You can print it on special decal paper using an inkjet printer / apply 3 layers of clear varnish / cut out / soak in luke warm water / apply. regards Frank 2 Quote
laurent Posted August 5, 2021 Posted August 5, 2021 On 5/13/2021 at 11:15 AM, F.Janssen said: Not a lot of work done last month. Had to travel for work so Weasel has been silent. Anyway got some new items for the Weasel. Engine cover which needed some repairs. Have a rear floor panel, which needs some repairs in the future, but mainly new footman loops. Looking for some advice on the color. As my Weasel is an M29C everything was olive drab off factory. Anyway a lot of recent purchased items are white. What shall I do, repair and repaint in white, or stick with the factory olive drab color. your engine cover is painted white because it is was fitted on an ealier weasel ( M29 early or middle production, or T24) try to find the later one with the holes for the stretcher brackets, you can also drill it . you do a really nice restoration, with lot of details! Quote
laurent Posted August 5, 2021 Posted August 5, 2021 On 6/24/2021 at 8:47 PM, F.Janssen said: Finally got some time to do some small things on the weasel again. your speedometer is too early for your M29C, try to trade it for the black needle Quote
F.Janssen Posted August 10, 2021 Author Posted August 10, 2021 On 8/5/2021 at 2:55 PM, laurent said: you do a really nice restoration, with lot of details! Thanks a lot Laurent! I know of the speedometer. It is a repro one, and I bought it for a reason, although I don't know what it exactly was any more, I think to be able to substitute with my Willys Quote
F.Janssen Posted September 29, 2021 Author Posted September 29, 2021 I got a very nice gift, which was a repro "push start" button. Having my dash completed with some small incorrect things remaining. Furthermore started on the return rollers. The seal in those rollers, is consiting of 2 parts. In the manual this only has 1 number: SD-908196 Anyway it is possible to remove the seal seperatly. Does anyone know if there is a replacement part for only the seal (RH)? 1 Quote
OZM29C Posted September 29, 2021 Posted September 29, 2021 5 hours ago, F.Janssen said: I got a very nice gift, which was a repro "push start" button. Having my dash completed with some small incorrect things remaining. Furthermore started on the return rollers. The seal in those rollers, is consiting of 2 parts. In the manual this only has 1 number: SD-908196 Anyway it is possible to remove the seal seperatly. Does anyone know if there is a replacement part for only the seal (RH)? @F.JanssenThe return roller seal is the same as the bogey wheel seal. The modern equivalent is SKF CR 12391. Details here from one of the many suppliers; https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p305327/SKF-CR12391-Single-Lip-Nitrile-Rotary-Shaft-Seal-1.25x1.938x0.25-inch/product_info.html I have attached a drawing of the gasket for you as well. Contact me when you are ready to replace the bogey wheel seals. There are some excellent documents out there that you should refer to when installing these seals. I have attached a number of photos that may be of help to you. In my case I have fitted bronze bushings in the Return roller in lieu of the needle roller bearing. This was a common modification for weasels operating in Antarctica. Weasel Bogey wheel seal gasket.pdf 2 Quote
F.Janssen Posted September 30, 2021 Author Posted September 30, 2021 THANKS! I am indeed planning to use bronze bushings. The needle bearings were totally gone, and the shafts have some pitting on them which would not be ideal for new roller bearings. The seal number really helps! Thanks for that! Do you happen to also have the seal number for the Idler Wheel ( SD-900816 ) Than I can order all bearings and seals at the same time 💰 Quote
OZM29C Posted September 30, 2021 Posted September 30, 2021 9 hours ago, F.Janssen said: THANKS! I am indeed planning to use bronze bushings. The needle bearings were totally gone, and the shafts have some pitting on them which would not be ideal for new roller bearings. The seal number really helps! Thanks for that! Do you happen to also have the seal number for the Idler Wheel ( SD-900816 ) Than I can order all bearings and seals at the same time 💰 @F.JanssenThe Caterpillar seal is the best after market option for the outer seals. See photo 1. The alternative to the Cat seal is a Federal Mogul National oil seal that I have highlighted in the attached Word doc. Please be aware that this seal is only 6.35mm (1/4"Inches) wide and may need a spacer to ensure that the seal sits in the right position on the shaft. Last but not least, NOS seals Good luck finding them>>>>> The inner seal in the rear hubs is as per photos 2 and 3. Pay particular attention to the orientation of the new seal in the retainer. Finally there is a felt seal fitted in the final drive housing. I don't know where to get them but the photos will give you some ideas on what and how you can make them. Federal Mogul National Oil Seals - Hub Seal Alternative.docx 1 2 Quote
F.Janssen Posted October 8, 2021 Author Posted October 8, 2021 Thanks! Quotes are pending. Meanwhile I started on the Idler Wheel...which mainly was a lot of oi/water/blurry.... And it seems that previous drivers were unaware when to stop after the tracks were too loose or ran off. 1 Quote
42rocker Posted October 11, 2021 Posted October 11, 2021 Thanks for sharing your build. Stay Safe Later 42rocker Quote
F-D Zernia Posted October 12, 2021 Posted October 12, 2021 I see you had a hub with water contaminated grease. I also have the same issue. Amazingly everything cleaned up and looks to be in good condition. The outer cover had no gasket. My question is it wise to fill the hub with grease completely after packing the bearings. We have a vendor in town that specializes in bearings and seals. In conversation he told me filling the hub with grease can cause overheated bearings. The space in the hub is needed for dissipating heat. The example he gave was boat trailer bearings that failed on the road when they were full of grease. I have noticed some heat marks on the spindle and the inner bearing ring that rides on that spindle. With emery paper they buff out easily. The modern grease does not have the wax like consistency of the grease I’m cleaning out of these hubs. Is there a school of thought on hub maintenance. I was told one hour of swimming with a Weasel will require five hours of maintenance. If this is so I imagine part of that is cleaning hubs and repacking bearings. I realize there is a grease fitting that enables maintaining the hub in a grease filled state but is this an old way of thinking. For now I’m packing bearings like I would on a utility trailer or an old car. I will add a little grease but not fill the void in the hub. We can always top off later if I change my mind. Fred 1 Quote
F.Janssen Posted October 13, 2021 Author Posted October 13, 2021 Hi Fred, I'm going to fit new bearing, but beside that, all is looking pretty well. One of the hubs was completely filled with grease, the other one only partially. To get to your question. I don't know if the hub should be packed yes or now. What I found in my hubs was there were some small cups fitted. I don't have a picture with me, and will only be able to make a picture on Thursday. On the hub filled with grease, there was only 1 cup fitted, approx 1,5cm in the hub. On the other hub, there was no grease in the chaimber, and there were 2 small cups fitted. Apparentely these cups might be sufficient to make sure the grease does not finds it way to the bottom chaimber. Although, there is a grease zerk on the hub, so overfilling is quite easy. Picture to follow. regards Frank 1 Quote
F.Janssen Posted October 14, 2021 Author Posted October 14, 2021 Herewith the pictures of the caps: 1 1 Quote
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