Patrick Tipton
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Everything posted by Patrick Tipton
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I'd say it looks a bit different. Looks fantastic John....although I do kinda like the white and black camo...but maybe I am biased!🤣
- 283 replies
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- engine & accessories
- tracks
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I have several NOS flywheels. Some have surface rust, but no pitting and the ring gears are perfection. $80 plus shipping while supplies last.
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Looks great John! I hope you are getting to enjoy it!!!
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We can't legally post it without permission. That being said, I am working on a couple of projects with the publications editor for the MVPA - so let me see if we can get permission. It is good for the MVPA to get their content seen!
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You are very welcome. Thanks for participating. Forums are valuable because of member participation so I really hope and want all of you guys to view this as "your" forum. Patrick
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John - always learning something! I am assuming this goes on the inside...the engine side of the instrument panel....? I have never seen this part.
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Are you looking for the detonator itself?
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Absolutely right John! I got all the debris cleaned up. After all of the prep work, I still managed to get out nearly a cup of dust/debris. Unbelievable! Wet sanding the inside of a Weasel hull is a staggering amount of work and I did the finish coats without moving the hull at all - I let it dry totally and then moved and repeated. I did not achieve a Ferrari finish, but then again, it isn't a Ferrari. I think I have developed OCD.
- 356 replies
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- restoration thread
- hull & sheet metal
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Congrats John! One more box checked off.👍
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I have been at the painting game for 3 days....painting a Weasel is a ton of work. The biggest issue is getting all the restoration debris out of the hull - really a pain. We must have vacuumed this hull 50 times, plus blow it out, flip it over, etc. I still managed to dump a bunch of sandblasting residue into the matte clearcoat so I have some repairs yet to do. The inside and bottom of the hull is finished thru clear cloat...with a lot of flattener so there is a little gloss, but not much. There are a couple of areas that need a little fixing, but it is supposed to rain tomorrow so I am going to get the hull back on springs and off the rotisserie and back in the shop. I am also going to start laying out the camo so I can paint a really flat clear coat on Sunday/Monday and call it a day. There is still a lot to do, but it is nice to see the hull in white! IMG_8486Small.mov
- 356 replies
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- restoration thread
- hull & sheet metal
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I am sorting through my T24 suspension and finding lots of subtle differences in components between the T24 suspension with its 15 inch tracks and the various later versions of M29/M29C with different variations of the 20 inch track. There are several different leaf springs used on the T24/M29 series. The T24 has 3 part numbers: an 11 leaf front spring, two 9 leaf middle springs and a 13 leaf rear spring. The later M29 and M29C were shipped with 8 leaf spring packs, although the front and rear have one part number and the center springs have another part number. I don't know what the difference is between these springs. There are a lot of Weasels running around with tracks that don't run well. Lots of reasons for this, but incorrectly placed springs could be another because it ends up causing alignment issues. The other thing to note is that there are lots of changes to the various arms and yokes etc. over the course of production. If you have alignment issues, it may be mix matched suspension components.
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Dave...Weasel's are like cereal box toys...you need to collect them all. I see a T24 in your future!🤣
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Once you loosen the jam nut and then unscrew the set screw, you need to unscrew the pulley sheave itself. Counterclockwise. If it is stuck, penetrant and you can insert a screwdriver or something into the holes in the sheave casting to get a little leverage.
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Appreciate it John! ...and thanks again for all of the tech support!
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Nice Dan! Thanks, that looks like a great product!
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I finished the repairs to the hull over the weekend. I have one insulation tab to add by the drivers feet and to finish and install the battery tray - it is mostly ready for install, just needs to be trimmed and the rear battery hold down strap installed. I am going base coat/clear with a 2K epoxy primer. My paint guys said we could not add flattening agent to the white paint without getting a chaulky mess so this will be a first for me. I don't like spraying period but I am going to spray all of this outside - not the greatest condition, but I would rather have stuff in the paint than be inhaling this junk. The clear can be made fully matte so we shall see how it looks and wears. The nice thing about the epoxy primer is that I can use a little glaze before I base coat it if I have any areas I really don't like. I added a couple of pictures of my spot welder. It works great on new metal...much harder on older metal unless it is perfectly clean. Speaking of clean, I Tigged up a broken rod on the brush guard...hard to clean it completely and got some nice porosity🤪 if there is such a thing...I like to tell myself it looks original!
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Many thanks Bryon! I am very excited to see paint this week....little more cleaning but Wednesday looks like a go!
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Great to know!
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That is great Dan - thank you for the information. I too have been looking for an original....they don't seem to come up at all... I did a little research and it appears that many 12 volt systems aim to have 6-8 volts at the points to reduce arcing and wear. Thus the internal resistor in the coil or the need for an external resistor. Back to @RAS1 Dave, you may need to run a resistor because your coil may not have an internal resistor.... apologies for any confusion!
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Thanks Dan. That is a cool solenoid - I had one like that on a Ford tractor...super useful, although you always have to be careful to make sure it doesn't start in gear! Does your coil have a part number on it? I am not seeing the external resistor on the coil on the T24 engine...either in the original G179 Studebaker parts manual or the early TM 9-1772A..... and both the leads are coming off of the top of the coil.
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Hard to say for sure without looking at the clasps on the seat belts, but I would say yes from what I see. Congrats!!
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@M29 Dan....I think all models of the Weasel shipped with a 12 volt coil. The part number is SD-900793 - Autolite Model CM4006 and it has a G154 number (T15). The bracket changed over the course of production, but I don't see any changes on the coil itself. I think the post on the bottom is just for ground, no?
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As I am sure you know, the Weasel has a 12 volt electrical system - there are no resistors. Check your coil - is it 12 volt? Resistors are often used on 6 to 12 volt conversions so maybe someone had a 6 volt coil laying around that they wanted to use. I am not sure what happened to those points...maybe left the switch on with the points slightly open?
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Thanks Dave!
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Dave...they look like smaller bow brackets?
