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Patrick Tipton

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Everything posted by Patrick Tipton

  1. @Larry Mass James took care of us...my pictures are not good of the T15. Your hull is looking great! I like that semi-gloss....I am definitely going semi-gloss on the interior.... Thanks @James Di Giovanni
  2. @Will Dodge FYI, when you use the @ you can tag someone and they will be notified. Under your name in the upper right...Account Settings....
  3. Thanks Will....it is a little annoying...I guess I have just gotten used to it. I will poke around and see...you should be able to jump to newest posts.
  4. There are both 55 and 56 grouser tracks (in both 15" and 20"). The sprockets are different for them too because the "pitch" (ie spacing between grousers) is different. The "dog bone" (or bogie wheel carrier (called a bracket in the manual) is also different....presumably has to do with spacing as well. There is nothing in the manual, but the ORD 9 does have 4 different sets of tracks listed (1953 ORD 9 G179). I think someone mentioned having some information on the engineering reports regarding these track changes, but I have never seen them. The earlier ORD 9 G154/179 (1944) has one set of tracks listed for the T15/M28 and two sets (15" and 20") for the M29 and M29C. Again, I do know that there are both 55 and 56 grouser 15" tracks, so presumably the same is true of the WW2 era 20" tracks. Hopefully some other folks can chime in.
  5. Thank you @F-D Zernia Fred. Appreciate it. Congrats on getting it worked out - not an easy one. As you saw in the video, I spent a couple of hours and made progress but could not get everything to line up. Last night...another 2.5 hours messing with the instrument panel/engine cover and the radiator panels. Other than a bunch of little small bends and some hammer and dolly work, I had to grind the driver side rad support channel about 1/16 in one spot (in the front right by the throttle linkage mounting plate) and finally got everything to line up. I am going to strip all of the panels today, clean them up a little more and go in one more time before I weld in the lower hat channels with the captive nuts that support the lower end of the panels. I think I replaced the whole driver side in about the same amount of time!😂
  6. Great stuff John - maybe I am biased, but those T24's sure are good looking machines!😂 My M29 is ORD 2005....just a couple behind her. Thanks again for posting. Patrick
  7. Appreciate it Fred. I am still fussing with the panels. The holes on the driver side cover panel/rad support don't quite line up either so I need to fiddle a little more (mostly with the hammer) until I get it lined up correctly. The panel is in very nice shape overall, just has a few tweaks that are making it a bear to get installed. I have now removed three radiators and all three have been tight! The last one had spacers to push the radiator forward and away from the fan. That being said, the engineers were relying on a tight fit and felt to ensure that there was enough flow through that radiator to keep the motor cool - like an airplane cowl. Keep me posted on how you make out! Patrick
  8. Ouch! Mine aren't pretty, but they don't look like that! Thanks again for all of the help.
  9. Appreciate it John. I made something a little lighter and similar for jeep water pumps. I will make something similar for the Weasel....I do not intend to break that pulley! Thanks again. BTW, I bought a carbide valve seat cutter for the motor I have been working on. The valves cleaned up nicely but the seats don't look great. It is a neat little set with a pilot bushing and several angles so you can get the correct valve seat width. I have always just taken blocks to the machine shop and let them do it...I want to learn and worst case, I screw something up and have the machine show redo the valves with hardened inserts. That would be an expensive lesson, but how else do you learn?
  10. Looking good! One little task at a time, done well.... Keep it up.
  11. I appreciate it Fred. I think you are right about the tracks slipping....I think they are very loose, but the bands are in such bad shape that I think they would break if I tightened them properly. I have a set of tracks that were banded with conveyor belting....am going to swap these out after I get the motor situation straightened out and hopefully this M29 will be a driver! Thanks again Fred!
  12. Thanks John. I have only driven a floater briefly but I do feel like they steer a little harder than the earlier machines.... I think that part of the pickup and screen is still available but me thinks from the pictures that I would have to solder the tube on.. I have another motor that has freeze damage - am going to pull the oil pan and see if I have good parts there to scavenge. If not...I might be able to fix the original...just need to inspect it further and see if you can take it apart. It is out of shape but could be pretty easily straightened if I can get it apart.
  13. Greetings Alexander. Good eye! Yes, missing the drain tube. I have another cracked engine and am going to pull the oil pan and hope it is there. I also need the oil pickup and screen - the one on this motor is pretty beat up - I think from freezing... The casting date on the block is 4/17/45 and the build date is 4/27/45 - they were cranking!
  14. Thanks Byron - that was my suspicion. I may goof around and try and bend a new tiller to replace the right side with the poor braze repair...otherwise...will try and get it a little straighter just because, well.... I have a problem with things on my vehicles not being in order....dirty shop?? no problem....quarter inch dent in the corner of the hull.... 😂 I do have a correct radiator with a hole for the starter crank (shaft for winch)....but it needs to be rebuilt and I am expecting all kinds of grief when I tell the guy he has to cut a hole in a perfectly good new core 🙂 Your machine looks great - has to be a good feeling to be driving it around!
  15. No track when I bought it -an incomplete Weasel "kit". I may have a single 20" track for you...condition ....repairable....
  16. @Will Dodge Thanks Will! Yes - the hull did not look that bad and probably was about standard for Weasels in this part of the world, but it was a huge amount of work to bring it back to more or less new. The remainder of the restoration should be pretty well downhill - I have almost everything - most is in good shape so just a lot of cleaning and refurbing. I am going to install original 15" tracks so that might be a rodeo yet....I have a set + so I will be getting into the questions you are posing on the track thread. The 15" are different because they only have two bands instead of 4....this Weasel will be a little more of a trailer queen than a runner although I do want to be able to drive it around. I may swap the tracks out after I get it finished and photographed and run something more durable....TBD.
  17. @OZM29C Thank you John. I have been wondering about those reinforcements - is it just human nature to pull too hard on those arms or are the forces reasonably light if everything is well adjusted? Every Weasel I have driven has had pretty high stick forces, but I have never driven one that was fully restored. How hard is your steering? One other thought - I purchased that Hossfeld tube bender and could pretty easily (I think)..bend a new arm and just weld them in (both of mine have repairs and one side is thin in a couple of spots). Jeep windshield arms are the same diameter tubing and they are doubled with a smaller tube inside of it. I happen to have stock...was thinking about doubling and bending one up. If I leave the doubler short 4 inches or so...never see it.
  18. I have been making daily videos for those following along on Youtube which means I have been less diligent on this end. I finished fabricating the new tiller control shaft bracket and got it welded on the hull. I need to clean the plug welds and do a little cleanup in general of the area, but I am pleased. I had to repair the shaft -incredibly buggered up because this hull sat outside and the bracket formed a nice little container for water which rotted away the end of the shaft. I welded on new metal and turned it back down. I did not mirror finish it...I still may go back and do a little more work on it, but I got the shaft back to solid and looking pretty good. It will certainly work. I also moved my engine into the work area and will start disassembling it soon. The motor is a Norwegian rebuild with standard mains and rods and .20 over bores. It will be interesting to see how the insides look. Finally - does anyone recognize this radiator? It supposedly came out of a French rebuilt T24. It fit beautifully so if an adaption - they did a wonderful job.
  19. I spoke with Mike and he and Rob Walsh are working on some too. I don't have a price, but will give you an update as soon as I hear.
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