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Patrick Tipton

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Everything posted by Patrick Tipton

  1. Yes.....I still have a bunch to do as well - not a fun job. I purchased a handheld belt sander from Harbor Freight...(discount tool store in US) for about $35....takes about a 14"x 3/4" belt. Fantastic for this job. I have a small air powered one too....works great just a little narrower and I get tired of hearing the compressor run.
  2. Indeed. Given that they were only supposed to originally last for 1,000 miles.....not bad Studebaker!😁
  3. Byron - I am a newbie on most of these Weasel mechanicals too so not much to offer with respect to the fuel tank/pump. As for the thermostat, I don't believe it will matter. From initial testing onward, it appears that these machines run on the hot side (in warm climates) which is not surprising given the radiator location, indirect air flows and lack of outlet for heated air once it passes thru the radiator. Presumably, all of these factors were a non-issue given that Weasels were designed to operate in extremely cold conditions. I would guess that keeping the motor warm enough was a bigger issue than too cold - thus the radiator/cowl doors. These thermostats begin to open before their rated temperature and are designed to be fully open at the rated 180 in your case. That is a desirable operating temperature range - hot enough to be burning off any condensation but way short of any temperature one should start worrying about oil degradation or other heat related wear issues. Regards, Patrick
  4. Very. nice John. I did not know that you purchased the LAR tracks - a great investment. I know a lot of guys running them and every single one of them loves the tracks. One more task completed! Merry Christmas.
  5. I believe Dave Yamulla has some of them......I am getting close to this point too so am going to be looking for bushings as well.
  6. I "know" this from the Illustrated Parts Listing...so...take it with that....I believe that all of the Weasels had the T84J. The Norwegians put T90s in them. I Googled the T96 and see references to '38 cars....so.....you probably need to be looking for a T84J. Patrick
  7. Negative @Larry Mass the ORD 9 lists the T84J for the T15.....
  8. Looking and sounding great Byron! You are making quick work of that hull. Very impressive! Merry Christmas! Patrick
  9. Merry Christmas John! You really are getting close with the tracks going on. Regards, Patrick
  10. I looked at the T15 wiring diagram and did not see any such animal. Regards, Patrick
  11. Making progress. I ran out of welding gas and could not finish the last hull patch. I have a thousand details, add drain plugs back in, finish grinding various repairs on the inside of the hull (including mouse hole for drain, clean up a few welds that just look horrible, chase all of the threads on the suspension mounting points, drill a few holes that I did not make when adding new sheet metal etc. But we are getting close with the hull!
  12. Appreciate it @M29C3284. That would be good!
  13. I am about finished with my hull repairs and starting to gear up to do the mechanicals. I ended up finding a set of nice 15" T24 tracks. They are in good shape - with a roller chain added for stability. I am not sure what I am going to do about the bands yet, but I want to start fixing the grousers. I have two issues in some grouser plates: bends and then torn off road pads. 1. I am guessing the grouser plates are hardened? I have probably 6 to 10 that are bent. My plan is to heat them and bend them back. Any experience out there? 2. Where the road pads are torn, my current plan is to weld a 1/4 or 5/16 tapped plate in the "hole" - then screw in a delrin road pad. I am open to thoughts or suggestions. Thanks, Patrick
  14. Getting real close now. I got most of the bow patch finished last night. I need to do a little more welding, but it came out just fine. I will also need to weld the top seam after I take the hull off of the rotisserie - too much stuff in the way and the weight of the hull is distorting the front panel a little so I think it will come out better if I do that seam later.
  15. Appreciate the pictures @OZM29C...indeed that is the worst place on my hull...low and doubled up steel. I treated the area and may do a little more before I button up the bottom. I will chase all of those threads out and make sure that we are good. I have a couple of broken bolts to remove as well. Cheers! Patrick
  16. Winding up the repairs on the lower hull. This front section is no fun to repair because it is very difficult to get on the inside to properly clean the rust off the original sheet metal. Lots of ugly chasing and burning through - not my idea of a good time but the metal was structurally good. I need to do a little fussing with the drain pipe and chase the threads...it should clean up but I will regret all that finish welding if it doesn't. I need to install the big bow patch and then fix one more area of rot near a drain plug on the driver side, patch a hole or two on the floor and then do a QC on the entire lower hull before turning to the details.
  17. Nice Dan - looks great. PS: You inspired me to clean my shop. I will do more this weekend!
  18. I am super happy with my kit - it saved me a huge amount of time and money - including the research to get things like bend radii and dimensions spot on. Everything about these pieces is great. Patrick
  19. Thanks @Byron! I am not sure how available they are here...but I will take care of these and also see what is around!
  20. I am making steady progress. I still have a few seat hat channels to install, but I had a little help so I got the hull on the rotisserie and started working on the last 3 or 4 items on the lower hull. A rotisserie really makes a difference. They are a lot of work to make and I made some "engineering" mistakes in mine, but I have made it work. If I ever do another Weasel, I will redo the mounting brackets for the hull -otherwise it works wonderfully. I probably should have put the hull on the rotisserie to mount the side panel - was a little worried about the hull distorting, but it sure makes access anywhere a no brainer. The biggest work I have left is repairs to the bow and related area. The inner 45 degree hat channel in the lower hull on the front is rotted on both sides. Access is terrible (small space) and there is a drain so it is a pain to fix. Otherwise, there is a little rot on the sides of the lower hull and one "bay" in about 3/4 back on the driver side. I also have a couple of holes to patch in the floor....I am not going to push too hard, but I am looking to finish this hull by the end of December.
  21. I am sure you are right Byron, but man someone would curse me if they every tried to get into the driver side! 😅
  22. Looks great John! Congrats on all of the hard work. Your "down under" photo orientation is baffling....just post and I will fix it. If you think about it, turn the photo upside down next time you post and see what happens.
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