Patrick Tipton
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Everything posted by Patrick Tipton
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Wrapping up the side installation. The plug welds are slow going and lots of grinding! All that being said....the driver compartment is nearly finished...just need to finish the passenger section. Onward!
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Welcome - cool Weasel!
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Welcome Pips! Sounds like you got yourself a big project - congrats! If I were you, I might think about buying another machine - probably in the states and just shipping it over. I think you will save money in the long run. Otherwise, I think you are going to spend more having smaller parts shipped to you. What is the likelihood of finding a good parts machine in the Netherlands? As for the repairs to the hull - just a lot of welding and grinding. There are very few parts on the hull that you can't make in a simple shop so fire up your angle grinder, get some 18 gauge steel and your welder and get after it! I would suggest you start a rebuild thread so we can all follow along! Patrick
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Appreciate it John @OZM29C. I am definitely looking forward to wrapping up these repairs over the next couple of weeks and moving on to the mechanicals. You are so very right about the memory.... I hardly remember the hours and hours of prep work necessary to remove the drivers side.... Have you ever tried this overlap/tack/cut on a 45 degree method of making a patch? I learned it from a couple of Youtube videos- very easy way to get great results. Cheers! Patrick
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I am wrapping up the top seam on this new side. It is coming along nicely and should be finished in another session or so. The process is pretty straightforward. I tack the side a little above where the seam will be. First picture. Then I cut on a 45 degree angle with the angle grinder and a cutting wheel....more or less following the top of the new side and cutting through both the new side and the underlying original metal. This leaves a nice bevel and you then push the new side down flush and tack again. You can see this in picture 2. Place tacks until the seam is welding and clean up. Picture 3 is after the first pass. I missed a couple of spots in this one and there is a little porosity (hard to clean original metal on inside) so had to add a few tacks. The rest of the photos are after the second welding pass in spots, a little angle grinder and maybe a little 3m pad to really make it look nice.
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John - that is really looking nice. Well done! Patrick
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Nice job. You are making me feel like a slacker!😂 Question on the rotisserie - I ended up with a similar design with threaded rod to try and get the hull in balance for easy turning. I found it very hard to adjust the rod - did you use a jack or anything to remove part of the weight or does this design function as planned? Thanks!
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@OZM29C do me a favor and email me a "zipped" version of the last picture. That is what the tech guys are asking for to figure out why....
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Yes and no. The product is advertised to work with spot welders....you can spot weld through the sealer as I understand it. After I applied it to the seam - trying to stay clear of the weld areas - I cleaned everything up as much as I could so there was no visible seam sealer where the welds were going. That being said...there was still some squeeze out and it was close enough to impact the welds in some areas.
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IMG_7169small.mov I got the new side welded on. The welds are not perfect, but I am pretty happy with the outcome. I did use a 3M seam sealer on the lower seam - nice product but it does raise hell with the MIG process. I have a good amount of welding left to do, including cutting and hiding the top seam, but I am looking forward to having it finished over the next week or so. If anyone is contemplating a similar repair, it is not too bad. I made a checklist for how I would weld it in - worked out fine, although I did get a little movement so I would add a couple of spots to keep things in alignment through the process of welding.
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Congrats! The bolts down the side are T-24 (maybe early M29) and were used to mount large metal plates which the parachutes attached to for a planned air drop into Norway. More pictures! Patrick
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No - I think the bushings belong on both sides of that bracket ...there are 4 called for in the parts manual so I will put 2 back in - one on each side. As for the gasket - take a look at John's recent post...you can see the gasket on the hull. That is how I think it fits, but I am not 100% certain on this. Patrick
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Greetings Bryon: 1. Yes. See pictures and listing from ORD 9 with sizes.... 2. See attached pictures. My covers looks the same as yours - I am not sure exactly where this cover came from.... but I think the gasket material is attached to the hull side....
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Thank you John - I am really happy to have them. They are in super nice shape all things considered....a few small bends but no major breaks, most of the road pads are still on them too. I am counting my lucky stars for sure! Patrick
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I am way past excited about this. Just picked up a set of original 15" T-24 tracks. Overall, they are in great condition for being 77 years old. As you can see, they have been modified with an additional motorcycle chain band and can be run as is....I bought them on the basis of pictures so this is the first I am really getting to inspect them. So far, I am very happy with what I am seeing. More to follow.
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Looks fantastic and you certainly put in the work. The motor looked nearly unsalvageable - turned out beautifully. Did you keep this one or sell it on? Patrick
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Appreciate it Byron - that is very kind of you. I am just tickled that I even get to play with this T24. Regards, Patrick
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Grease makes sense for most of us....I may run mine in some measure of cold, but not that cold. In my originality search on the T24, it appears that the earliest T24's may not have had oiling caps on the controls. Not sure how they would have been lubricating them....they were bronze bushed...maybe they were just planning to soak the bushings and let it go at that...
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That is exciting John - looking great.
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I am a few hours away from being ready to install the side. I ended up drilling lots of holes and will plug weld them up. It is faster to spot weld, but I don't have a lot of faith in the process with old & new metal and my equipment. The good news is that the process of plug welding ends up looking darn close to a spot weld - the key is going hot with the MIG/TIG and moving quickly. These holes are a little larger than I would prefer, but I used the spot weld cutter and they go quickly. The holes are more or less located where the original spot welds were located...so not perfect at all but should be a largely indistinguishable repair. I am going to use the panel bond on the lower hull seam and on the front and back sections where there is a decent amount of pitting. I will wire wheel all of the primer because the seam sealer is made for bare metal.
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Sounds good Kevin. For what its worth, the Harbor Freight hydraulic press is about $150 and goes on sale regularly. Great thing to have in a shop and while it is not a great unit, it does work fine for these types of applications. Patrick
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TM 9-1772 says use a 3 leg puller to remove the impeller. You will find the carbon washer, seal and seal spring on the inside of the impeller - held in place with a lock ring. I am personally leery of pulling impellers because they are fragile little beasts and they have often been on these shafts for decades. I like to use a puller to remove the pulley (not sure what that pin is in your picture - not shown in parts manual). My puller was made by @Rob W and threads into the fan mounting holes....then presses the shaft so the pulley pops off. From there, remove the clip in the weep hole in the last picture and you can press out the shaft and impeller. Then you can press off the impeller. It takes longer to write than it does to do. Regards, Patrick
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Appreciate it John. I have a decent amount of fussing to do on the hull - repairs to the center bulkhead and coaming and just overall making sure I like where things are. I am planning on taking the finished hull to a local media blaster, then having a buddy epoxy prime it - I am not equipped to spray those type of paints - then it will go into storage for a bit. I love the idea of the drain plug/access port. That seems like a pretty glaring omission by our friends at Studebaker doesn't it? I guess the intended use suggested that oil changes would not be happening. I will definitely add one - the access panel seems like a great solution and will be largely invisible. I am still a newbie on the mechanicals so I need to spend a little time with the final drive. My plan is to tackle the mechanicals after the hull is finished. My final drive looks super clean. I have to do the whole motor too....and the transmission and rebuild control pushrods and then the tracks....o yea...the tracks. I managed to find and buy a set of 15 inch tracks that are runable as is but need to be rebuilt. They will arrive next week and I can start thinking about that project. I am pretty happy with my progress but I don't think I am in any danger of finishing this project any time soon 😂
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Engine, transmission and rear end for sale.
Patrick Tipton replied to Raffi's topic in Buy, Sell, Trade
Do you have a serial number for the engine?
