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OZM29C

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Everything posted by OZM29C

  1. Just going through some of my old archived weasel photos and came across these photos showing M114 tracks being retrofitted to a Weasel. The photos date back to 2001. You will see in the photos a reversed control weasel. I would hope that the owners of these weasels do visit this forum and could tell us more about their modifications.
  2. @Patrick TiptonAnother piece of Weasel 'Unobtanium'🙂 Well done! I note that this set of tracks has the standard sized (high) track guides.
  3. Yes @Patrick Tipton The weasel is finally starting to come together. What I forgot to mention was that the accelerator pedal in my photo has been modified IAW MWO ORD G179-W9. I have also added a grease fitting to the accelerator pedal bushing. Maybe an over kill but nice to be able to lubricate the pedal shaft if needs be.
  4. @Kevin Vogel I have posted these photos and info here on the forum in a separate thread but I will post again to help you out. More that likely when you get your pump apart, the mechanical seal surface will be either worn or corroded. In my case as you can see in the photos, my seal surface was beyond redemption. I chose to machine and fit a replacement 316 stainless steel collar. Any competent machine shop could do this job. I used a generic Chinese water pump bearing and also machined it to size. I have had my engine running on a test stand and so far so good. The photos will better show what I am describing. Good luck with your repair. Water pump bearing.pdf Water_pump_integral_shaft_bearings.pdf
  5. I had a very productive day on the weasel today. Internal hull painting is finally done. I then managed to fit some weasel Jewellery bringing this successful day to an end.
  6. This is how I got my pulley off. I have made a strong back adaptor that bolts to the pulley flange. At the centre of the flange/adaptor I have added a hole which allows a drift to be positioned against the water pump shaft which in turn allows the pulley to be pressed off using a hydraulic press. The picture below better shows what I am describing.
  7. @Patrick TiptonPatrick, again your attention to detail is commendable. Once the side is in, where to next? Can I make a suggestion for a practical mod while you have the hull repairs under way. I believe that a final drive oil drainage system would be of benefit to you further down the track. Below are photos of the two different styles of Final drive drain. The first is for a T24 final drive that I believe was not fitted with a drain plug. I have had to drill and tap a plug into the final drive housing. In the latter photo I have fitted a removable hull plate to access the later style M29C final drive drain plug. Hope this makes sense. Cheers
  8. I had three take out cranks sent over from the USA plus the original crank and a crank from a donor engine. I sent them all up to a good friend of mine that owns and operates and engine reconditioning business. Unfortunately he did not elaborate on where the cracks were, just that they were scrap metal. I actually had his shop rebuild my weasel engine as he said that the assembly cost is a fraction of the total cost as compared to the machining costs. He also mentioned that if there are any problems during assembly, they can rectify the problem there and then. My engine was no different to other engines. In my case they had problems with the piston pins. Anyway my engine was balanced and the lubricating oil system was primed before I took delivery of it.
  9. @ByronI fitted an Aluminium camshaft timing gear to my engine when I rebuilt it. Peace of mind! Also I would consider it mandatory to have your crankshaft Crack tested. I had 5 take out crankshafts fail crack testing before I finally found a good Crank, only because it was NOS.
  10. @Patrick TiptonGreat work Patrick. Watch out that you don’t drive yourself to insanity with grinding the plug welds flush. 😀
  11. I have spent most of yesterday and half of today working on the inside of the hull in order to prepare it for painting. I had to vacuum out as much of the leftover sandblasting grit as humanly possible, then remove and clean the blobs of Alumilastic that had been forced through to the inner hull when I was bolting the suspension on and also touch up areas of etch primer that the sandblaster missed. Anyway the inner hull now looks respendent in its first coat of OD. The two unpainted areas in the lower hull were where I stood to paint. I will touch them up later.
  12. @Byron They are radiator air deflectors. I will be installing mine very soon so I will take some photos for you.
  13. At a guess I would say that the diaphragm in your fuel pump has perished from age.
  14. @DIYJ Could I suggest that you resolve the issue by installing a new repair kit. I got my kit from this company; https://www.then-now-auto.com/product/fpa182-fuel-pump-kit/ Below is a happy snap showing my pump fitted with the new check valves. I did take the liberty of fitting new socket head stainless steel fasteners.
  15. Byron, Check out my thread here on this forum; The restoration is almost there.
  16. TB9-772-8 Cargo Carriers M29 & M29C - Correction of excessive drift makes interesting reading and may be of help to you to make the final adjustments to your steering. @Patrick Tipton may have this document available through Portrayal Press. BZ on the good work. A lot of initiative and resourcefulness shown.
  17. Welcome back Byron. Long time no see. Good to see that you have another weasel project happening. The old weasel forum is long defunct. Thanks must go to @Patrick Tipton for building this new forum. This weasel project seems to be in better shape than your first project. Don't forget to post your serial and ORD numbers for @Jim Gilmore Cheers John W.
  18. @Patrick TiptonRebuilding the suspension is a whole new sub-adventure. Lack of grease lubricant between the suspension bolts and bushings is more often than not the main reason for the excessive wear. I have only seen replacement NOS stock suspension bolts available and they are getting more expensive and harder to find by the day. Fortunately 3 different sized threaded suspension bushings can be machined from just the one readily available Aftermarket suspension bushing Studebaker vendors. Unfortunately though, the longest threaded bushings fitted the the bogey wheel rocker arms is not available. Rubber bump stops were available from Dave Yamulla. Check your spring set as this is essential for good track tension. The Spring set dimensions were posted on the old Weasel forum, regrettably I did not take any notes. I am sure forum members would happily measure their springs for you. When it comes to bogey wheel bearings and seals, have a read of Brock J’s excellent article. Also have a quick look at my thread on bogey wheels and seals. There are a myriad of 3/8” UNF threaded bolts that hold this suspension assembly together. Some bolts are unique to the weasel having machined tapers on their ends. All of the bolts will need to Have their threads chased and then bead blasted etc.. You can guarantee that most of the external tooth lock washers will be past their use by date. I could add lots more but I am sure that will keep yourself amused for many hours restoring this sub assembly. I did😄😄
  19. @Patrick TiptonThe sponson is really starting to take shape now. Well done! You will have to agree that its a lot easier to fabricate off the vehicle 😀 When you recondition your bogey wheel yokes, I would recommend investing in a thread tap to clean the threads in the yokes. I got mine off ebay but with you being in the US of A, it should be a lot easier to track down these old imperial thread taps from your local engineering parts outlets.
  20. Not a lot happening on the weasel in the last two days as I have had home Reno’s to do. But I did install the rubber seal on the front engine divider panel and I also installed my fire extinguisher bracket. The fire ex. bracket was made by a very talented fellow in the US of A. Unfortunately his details were lost when the previous weasel forum died.
  21. Hard to believe that after 20 years I have finally got my weasel back on its suspension and bogey wheels. My knees are paying for it tonight☹️☹️Just to mention a few parts that I have replaced; All of the suspension bolts and suspension bolt sleeves, NOS rubber bump stops, NOS bogey wheels and hub seals plus more. This is very time consuming work.
  22. I am on a holiday break which means I can progress the weasel restoration. Today’s effort was to start assembling the suspension. I am happy with today’s progress. The parts are getting heavier though. When I am finished with the passenger side I will tip the hull over and assemble the driver’s side. I am not quite sure how I am going to do the lift yet. The final drive looks resplendent in a coat of OD
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