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OZM29C

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Everything posted by OZM29C

  1. Rudder Steerer in position, rudder cable conduits adjusted/fitted and then clamped in position, rudder cables installed and adjusted. This was a very time consuming job. Just needs a touch up with some OD.
  2. Surf shield on, right side deflector fitted, fuel tank straps fitted, fuel filler neck and collar fitted. More room now in my shed👍👍
  3. The weasel has had a real change of personality after I applied the first coat of olive drab to the outer hull.
  4. Exhaust pipe installed complimented by a NOS muffler and a NOS muffler guard
  5. @KcanarrRegrettably I am not an expert on tracks. I bit the bullet and purchased a set of LAR tracks to avoid the kind of problems that you are having. Having said that, put simply, there are 55 and 56 Grouser tracks. They in turn have different track pitches. Each type of track has a matching specific diameter drive wheel (what the sprocket is attached to). I am not sure what the diameters are so I would hope that other could add to this post. This topic was discussed at length on the old weasel forum so I would hope that perhaps @Byronwould have kept copies of this information.
  6. @Patrick TiptonWell done👍👍 Time to get it into a primer coat now.
  7. Well my first Engine Compartment heat seal was a dismal failure. I tried to test fit it on the steering/gear shift assembly and it simply would not fit! I rechecked my drawing and found that I had stuffed up the conversion of one of the old imperial measurements into Metric. It was easier to make a replacement with a slot cutout rather than try to modify the first. I will see how it fits later this arvo.
  8. @KcanarrYou will need to beg, borrow or steal 😀 a Weasel special tool (Highlighted below) to either make a copy from or to use to tension your tracks. It would be nice to have a track jack to go with it as well but I ended up making a tensioning device out of somescrap heavy duty threaded rod. The spring tensioning bracket is really the only way to easily tension your tracks.
  9. Work in progress. This is my interpretation (so far) of the engine compartment heat seal. This seal is fashioned off the later style metal (and I think felt???) heat seal.
  10. Today's effort was to resurrect the fuel tank straps. I found the remains of a set of straps years ago. I have salvaged the ends from the old straps and then grafted the original ends onto some new strapping. I had to modify my top straps as there is not enough clearance between the top of the fuel tank and the upper hull. My repo fuel tank is about 10mm higher as compared to an original fuel tank. I have therefore made the top straps removable. Now to bead blast and paint them.
  11. @M29C3284That is truely a very intersting history of the Swedish Weasel. 👍👍👍
  12. @KcanarrThe TM recommends to remove the outer front idler wheel. Try that and see how you go.
  13. @M29C3284I also replaced my engine ground strap on the drivers side engine mount, the same position as @F-D Zernia. Having said that, I had to put the strap to the lower side of the mount as the VWM repo strap would not fit correctly on the top side. Mandatory happy snap below.
  14. @M29C3284Do you have the Swedish modified float tanks to go on your weasel?
  15. Another big day on the weasel today. Here is a list of jobs carried out; Connected the front capstan winch driveshaft to the crankshaft pulley Connected the Clutch cable to the bell housing support bracket Installed the transmission shift lever shaft assembly Installed the lower radiator rubber drain hose Installed the lower radiator elbow and flexible hose - I am not sure if using the period radiator hose clamps was a good idea. They are extremely hard to get at with a screwdriver. Connected the flexible fuel line to the hard line adjacent the fuel pump Installed the water pump fan - It just clears the capstan winch drive by a hairs width, phew! Installed the radiator top hose Installed the Voltage regulator and support bracket and connected the generator wiring Laid out the main wiring harness - I have discovered that the VWM wiring harness does not contain the blackout and headlight wiring harness. Bloody frustrating as I paid top $$$$$ for this harness kit. Lubricated and installed the steering/high low range cross shaft and finally fitted the small cover that goes on top of the cross shaft (behind the driver) Time to have a break from the weasel for a few days. Cheers
  16. Thanks for the 'BZ' @Rob W Rob. Nope never driven a weasel. Looking forward to the day. Thanks for all of your efforts in developing the LAR track and sprockets. Best investment I have made on this restoration.
  17. @Jesse BrowningI had a small taste of those pleasures yesterday when I installed the front engine mouting bolts. They must have employed height challenged assembly workers at Studebaker to get into these tight spots😀.
  18. @M29C3284Great Work there, Its the small items that can take a lot of time to repair/replace. Looking forward to hearing about the Bandwagon modifications.
  19. @Byron Nope, as Elmer Fudd said 'Be vewy vewy careful'. I had the engine and transmission on a slight angle down at the transmission end and then gently fed the transmission under the engine bulhead while manipulating the water pump to clear the fan shroud and radiator inlet. I don't think you would be able to use this method with the later T90 transmission.
  20. Today I have achieved another major milestone in that I now have the engine lifted into place. BTW, the engine will go in with the transmission in place but as Elmer Fudd used to say; 'Be very very careful'. I used my portable gantry to do the lift. Now onto the interesting work (Finally)
  21. Thanks @M29 Dan, I too found the LAR track as being a tight fit and like you I had a selection of ratchets straps, an engine hoist and various pry bars to get the track on. Oh and plenty of thinking time 😀.
  22. After two days of bloody hard work I have finally mounted the passenger side LAR track and also I have tensioned both of the tracks. I don't have a tension gauge as shown in the TM so I have had to wing it to tension the tracks. What I have now is the idler springs stop brackets (the brackets that mount to the hull with two bolts and the unusual heavy duty lockwashers) set in their minimum position. This has left the LAR track with little flop between the return rollers and both the leading and final bogey wheels are about 50mm (2inches) off the ground. Of interst the track tension has pulled the the suspension springs and bogey wheels into perpendicular alignment. Now onto the engien and transmission install. I would imagine that there will be some stretch in the tracks when I start to use the weasel.
  23. Hi Byron, Can't answer your fuel tank and fuel pump questions as I have the mechanical fuel pump and a metal fuel tank however I can offer my thoughts on the third. I have taken the advice from my engine builder and retained the 180 thermostat. My weasel will not do a lot of lengthy running and the advice I received was thats its better for the engine to run at 180 in order to help burn off the contaminants in the engine oil (that accumulate from short runs) and also helps to reduce wear on the engine components. Thats the theory anyway so I will see how it goes when put into practiuce.
  24. First LAR track is on, just need to tension the track. Bloody hard work to fit a track by myself. I am glad that I ‘invested’ in the LAR track as I do intend to operate my Weasel in the water. A thrown track in the water would be catastrophic. New track will give me piece of mind. I am hoping the second track will be easier to fit now I know the shortcuts. The resto gets more interesting after the tracks, the engine and transmission go into the hull. Merry Christmas to all.
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