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OZM29C

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Everything posted by OZM29C

  1. @Patrick Tipton Patrick, again brilliant work. Your attention to detail raises the bar on weasel restoration. Why would someone go to the trouble of cutting the brackets off???? I have seen them crushed and torn off but to cut them off????
  2. I machined the bushings to suit from stock bronze. A very simple job for a capable machinist.
  3. @04mustangAs an alternative to the return roller needle bearing, I have fitted bronze bushings. This mod was done to the Australian Weasels operating in Antarctica. This mod also allows you to fit a wider bushing (on one side only) to more evenly distribute the load. The take out return roller shafts that I have all show extreme wear in way of the needle rollers. The needle rollers don't take too kindly to lack of lubrication and being exposed to water/moisture. Just a thought. I have attached a couple of photos for you to study. Cheers Return roller gasket.pdf
  4. @Patrick TiptonThanks Patrick👍👍 @Will DodgeI believe that the stretcher brackets on a T24/M29 differ from the M29C. Patrick may be able to help out here. The attached photo of Gile's weasel in the UK clearly shows a rear stretcher bracket but I am not sure if this is OEM or Norwegian.
  5. @Will DodgeI think that the handles would clear the driver with room to spare. I apologise for the photos being upside down, this happens when I post photos with my I phone. Hopefully @Patrick TiptonPatrick can correct the photos for you.
  6. @Will Dodge I hope that these photos will help
  7. @Will DodgeI can take photos showing the individual stretcher brackets fitted to my Weasel if that would help.
  8. @Will DodgeI think this excellent photo of Brock Jolliffe's M29C might help to answer your question.
  9. @F.JanssenAny chance of identifying the weasels that are fitted with flotation equipment?
  10. I refitted the accelerator mod kit to my weasel as it had already been partially fitted before I got the weasel. The mod works well. No cables etc. Took some extra time to fit it as the instructions call for the various panels to be flame cut and then filed. If you read the attached instruction sheet you will see that there was a good reason for the change with an Urgent priority. All in all though its your choice. MWO ORD G179-W9.pdf
  11. @Patrick TiptonThe ORD 9SNLG 179 that Patrick sent me states that an M29C Capstan rope is 3 strand 3/4inch (19mm) diameter 100feet(30.5metres) in length. There were two part numbers for the rope, one part number supersedes the other. The older parts manual lists a tow rope for the M29 1inch (25.4mm) diameter 20feet (6.1metres) Long with7/8inch(22.23mm) hooks.
  12. Hull no. UST-24-949 ORD 1002 USA# 40122704 ARN145623
  13. @Patrick Tipton Thought this might be of interest to fellow weasel owners. Attached is the Weasel trials report conducted by the Australian Military. Unfortunately there is not much left of 145623 today. 145623 has the ORD number 1002 making it the last T24 built before switching to the M29. Anyway enjoy the read.
  14. @Will DodgeAmbiliary track information. Grouser drawing remains the property of Steven Malikoff.
  15. @Will DodgeHere is a start Translation of nordoc 2-4.doc Translation of nordoc 6-8.doc Translation of nordoc 12-13.doc
  16. @Patrick TiptonOne last thing with water pumps. Dont forget to fit the bearing retainer. Photo below. As for engines, nothing beats hands on experience. Having the right tool for the job is also a good start. I had no choice with my valve seats. They were beyond redemption so I had the machine shop fit hardened seats. Keep that March madness coming👍👍
  17. @Patrick Tipton Patrick, the only safe way I found to remove a water pump pulley without damaging it was by the use of a purpose built strong-back made from a section of heavy duty steel flat bar. I have attached a photo showing the set up. BTW this photo was just for the camera to illustrate how I did it. I machined a recess into the bar to allow the fan spigot to sit freely into which in turn allowed the pulley face to sit flush against the strong-back and in turn when the securing bolts were tightened, they would exert and even force on the casting. I also drilled a 16mm hole in the centre to allow a 5/8" mandrel/drift to push against the water pump shaft. A lot of work but this method prevents any force being applied to the fragile outer edge. I also use this on Jeep water pump pulleys as well. Cheers JW
  18. This company ventured down this path of reproducing tracks and bands and unfortunately it all came to naught. http://www.carrolltech.com/ Good luck with your venture.
  19. @Patrick Tipton Re the steering, I have found in my short runs that to make the weasel turn at very slow speed I need to exert a firm pressure on the tillers however at speed, to quote you guys ‘it turns on a dime’. The extra weight of the flotation gear might have something to do with the steering. The steering bands will need to bed in as well. Would a drain tube and oil pick up screen be available from Studebaker parts? If it’s any conciliation, the oil pick up screen on my engine had all but corroded away when I dropped the sump. Keep up the March madness👍👍
  20. @Patrick TiptonImpressive work Patrick👍👍Will you be fitting the tiller arm reinforcements? Might be a worthy mod to consider looking at the repairs already done on one of your tiller arms. I would get that radiator checked by a radiator shop and if good, use it. I too have French rebuild kit in my weasel as well.
  21. @5280Beltfed I picked up my new 160F high flow thermostat this morning. It has the bypass hole in it. Note the packaging, it says “performance”😄
  22. @Patrick TiptonPatrick, would Mike Howard https://www.libertyar.com/ be worth contacting about seat backs. He used to make them?
  23. @ByronHi Byron, the photos better show what I was describing. I was outbid on ebay years ago for these. Cheers
  24. @Byron Byron, does your weasel have the late production rear axle hub stay rods. That mod would also definitely help with the Staaman tracks.
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