OZM29C

@RAS1The drain line does a 90 degree turn where it appears to exit out of the hull bottom and instead exits out through the side of the hull. The drain line is sealed by a 3/8"inch NPT square headed plug. Sorry I don't have a close up photo at this point of time. The fuel tank straps are as per the photo below. Having said that I have modified the straps to allow me to remove the straps from the front panel. In an OEM situation, the straps are just welded to the panel.

@Byron Byron, The new thermostat is working well. No more heating problems. Engine runs happily now at 165F.

Been awhile since my last update. Yesterday weather wise turned out to be a great day for painting so I managed to get two coats of paint on the outside of my track aprons. One coat to go now. Also I had time to install the Cordomatic spotlight reel and pistol grip.

@RAS1First photo shows how I piped up my fuel tank drain but I have since been alerted to th fact that the OEM drain arrangement slightly differs from what I installed. See second photo. Personally I prefer my arrangement as it is much easier to get access to the fuel petcock.

@RAS1Electric wiper arms are 254mm (10"inches) and manual wiper arm is 228.6mm (9"inches) in length. Never tried Jeep wipers but anything is possible nowadays.

@Patrick Tipton Patrick, when I bead blasted my suspension rockers, I machined, out of stock nylon, some simple dust caps to prevent abrasive blasting the machined seal retainer surfaces and the bearing cups.

Over the years I have picked up a couple of Miniature Weasels. Nice little knick knacks for the display cabinet. The pencil sharpener weasel can be found on fleabay occasionally.

@Patrick TiptonI think the quote from Buzz Lightyear,'To infinity and beyond' really highlights your restoration 😀😀 Well done👍 The bakerlite paint scheme on the hull bottom, Is that the yellow colour in the photo below?

@Patrick Tipton Ahhh the jewellery😀Here are some pictures of what I believe is the inner bracket. Do you have these brackets to compliment your outer brackets?

Dan @M29 The three plug weld you see at the bottom of the picture are to join a triple layer of sheet metal. The sponson, the angle brace and the hat section. The overlap is too great for my spot welder. I did indeed do the spot welding first before I did the general welding. Another hull I repaired, I just used plug welds (from the bottom) as the sheet metal I was using was Zinc Annealed and my spot welder would not spot weld it. There are lots of options available nowadays.

@Will Dodge Wiper arms and blades are made of unobtanium 😀 and are almost impossible to find replacements. Below is a reference photo for you. My advice would be to have a chat with Wiperman and see if he can set you up with a period alternative. https://rebuildingtricowipers.com/ Wiperman.com BTW he does not have anything for a weasel in stock nowadays. Years ago I purchased the last replacement blades he had. Good luck with your search.

I used my SIP spot welder pictured below to fabricate a set of sponsons for a T24 hull repair. This hand held spot welder is good for 2 x 2mm thick sheet metal and handled the 1.6mm thick sponsons with ease. Only encountered two problems, time; had to let the machine cool down frequently when doing a lot of spots and metal cleanliness:; the sheet metal had to be scrupulously clean to get a good spot. The electrode tips also need to be dressed regularly with a reshaping tool as well. This work was done on new metal. Not sure how you would go with original sheet?

@Guido FerlugaThis may help you as well. A copy of the parts list that came out of a NOS OEM carburettor repair kit. Also see if you can find a spare carburettor fuel filter, buy it. See picture. They are very fragile and in my case the retaining thread broke in half when I was removing it. One last item to find is the baffle that goes between the carburettor and the intake manifold. Sometimes missing. Cheers Weasel Carby Page 2.pdf Weasel Carby Page 1.pdf

@Patrick TiptonOut of interest Patrick, in my weasel spares parts box, I have two styles of replacement water pump impellers. One style is what you were using in your video (Jeep style with carbon ring) and the other has a more modern style mechanical seal pressed into the impeller. The biggest problem I see with repairing a weasel water pump is the seal surface in the housing. In my case mine was shot and I had to machine and fit a replacement 316 Stainless Steel collar. Well done on the videos👍👍👍Keep them coming.

@Guido FerlugaI forgot to mention that this plug is not furnished in the OEM repair kit

@Guido FerlugaHere is another option for you. Please read the reply I got from Daytona paying particular attention to the accelerator pump? John! We also make our own basic repair kit for the Carter BBR-1 Weasel military carburetor. The original Leather is a "chromed" leather ( a special process to add extended use for the leather, resulting in a purplish color). This is the best you can do for any type of gasoline, E10 or otherwise. The issue with any accelerator pump is the continual contact with gasoline. Any carb accel pump will not give good service in applications that are continually setting and drying out, regardless of the carb make and model! This is just the way it is. Leather pumps will give excellent service, as well as more modern flurocarbon rubber pump cups, as long as they stay immersed in gasoline. When they set and dry out, the leather shrinks and it must be re-immersed in gas for a few minutes before use, to expand to their original working diameter in the pump well. So, to help with this problem, you can simply change the method you use to restart an engine that has set for a few weeks: DO NOT immediately start pumping the accelerator pedal when re-starting the engine. Just crank the engine over, for say 15-20 seconds, to allow the fuel pump to fill the bowl of the carb with gas. Then let it set for at least 10 minutes. This will allow the fresh fuel in the bowl to also fill the pump chamber and allow the leather to re-expand to its normal working diameter. This method, with any leather pump, will allow it to give you much longer service life. When the leather on the pump shrinks it is not in contact with the sidewall of the pump well; when the engine starts, the vacuum actuated accel pump in the Weasel carb preloads the leather portion upwards, and when accellerating, vacuum drops on the piston head of the pump, and the spring causes the pump to move downward and discharge a shot of fuel. If the leather portion has not had time to soak up fuel and expand in the pump well, the force against the liquid fuel will cause the leather to "roll over" and ruin the pump. This is a common cause of leather pump failure; not because the leather is not good, but it cannot do its job is it is not fully expanded and sealed against the side wall of the pump well. So, a little patience can greatly extend the useful life of any leather pump. Our part #156A is made for the Weasel carburetors. This item costs $10 ea + shipping to AUS. I hope some of the information helps you, and if you are still not sure of the above explanation, let me know. Thank You! RON HEWITT DAYTONA PARTS COMPANY 1191 TURNBULL BAY ROAD NEW SMYRNA BEACH, FL 32168 PH:386-427-7108 FX:386-423-8528 www.daytonaparts.com https://www.daytonaparts.com/

What I forgot to mention, in the picture the red wire was the power wire for the later model electric fuel pump. As my weasel has the mechanical fuel pump, I have re purposed this wire to be an earth wire from the fuel tank back to the fuel gauge.

Thanks Patrick👍

@M29Thanks for the BZ Dan 👍Actually the restoration took 22 years. Still got some small finishing jobs to do like fitting the Canvas seat and seat back covers when they arrive from the UK but its drivable now, not a garden ornament. @Patrick TiptonPatrick, any chance you could right my photo please? I still don't know why my I phone randomly inverts photos??????

Finally got the opportunity today to take the weasel for a 2 mile run to test the fuel tank sender unit repairs. I am pleased to report no more fuel leaks.

@Price USMCIf Rob is out of stock, then try Gary at https://www.garysbunker.com/shop/m29-parts/brush-guard/ He might be able to help.

@Conner Bush@Patrick Tipton Conner, if you decide to restore an M29C fitted with floatation gear I would highly recommend putting the hard yards in to purchase a weasel with as much of the float gear fitted to it as possible no matter what the condition. That way you have the option to either pattern or repair these unique parts. Anything Amphibious = $$$$$$. For a vehicle that was destined for a short service life the float tanks are an engineering marvel. Facsimile tanks unless done properly do look out of place as in the photo below. Having said that I would study and compare photos of M29C's with their floatation gear fitted and M29C's with their float gear removed. There are a myriad of small hard to find parts and panels needed for a full amphibious restoration. Good luck with your search.

@F.Janssen Just sending through my engine number for M29C7333. T24-10275 Please note that this engine is not original to my hull.

@Patrick TiptonGreat engine video. From my experience, if the opportunity does present itself, get your crankshaft crack tested. For whatever reason I had 5 crankshafts tested in the search for a usable crank. They were all cracked. In the end I paid a premium and purchased a NOS crankshaft. Also if in your repair programme you have had to run a thread tap right through your spark plug holes, you can fit a longer reach spark plug. In my case I fitted good quality NGK BP6HS plugs. Keep the updates coming👍👍👍

@Guido Ferluga Hope this helps