Jump to content

OZM29C

Members
  • Posts

    766
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    189

Everything posted by OZM29C

  1. @Byron They are radiator air deflectors. I will be installing mine very soon so I will take some photos for you.
  2. At a guess I would say that the diaphragm in your fuel pump has perished from age.
  3. @DIYJ Could I suggest that you resolve the issue by installing a new repair kit. I got my kit from this company; https://www.then-now-auto.com/product/fpa182-fuel-pump-kit/ Below is a happy snap showing my pump fitted with the new check valves. I did take the liberty of fitting new socket head stainless steel fasteners.
  4. Byron, Check out my thread here on this forum; The restoration is almost there.
  5. TB9-772-8 Cargo Carriers M29 & M29C - Correction of excessive drift makes interesting reading and may be of help to you to make the final adjustments to your steering. @Patrick Tipton may have this document available through Portrayal Press. BZ on the good work. A lot of initiative and resourcefulness shown.
  6. Welcome back Byron. Long time no see. Good to see that you have another weasel project happening. The old weasel forum is long defunct. Thanks must go to @Patrick Tipton for building this new forum. This weasel project seems to be in better shape than your first project. Don't forget to post your serial and ORD numbers for @Jim Gilmore Cheers John W.
  7. @Patrick TiptonRebuilding the suspension is a whole new sub-adventure. Lack of grease lubricant between the suspension bolts and bushings is more often than not the main reason for the excessive wear. I have only seen replacement NOS stock suspension bolts available and they are getting more expensive and harder to find by the day. Fortunately 3 different sized threaded suspension bushings can be machined from just the one readily available Aftermarket suspension bushing Studebaker vendors. Unfortunately though, the longest threaded bushings fitted the the bogey wheel rocker arms is not available. Rubber bump stops were available from Dave Yamulla. Check your spring set as this is essential for good track tension. The Spring set dimensions were posted on the old Weasel forum, regrettably I did not take any notes. I am sure forum members would happily measure their springs for you. When it comes to bogey wheel bearings and seals, have a read of Brock J’s excellent article. Also have a quick look at my thread on bogey wheels and seals. There are a myriad of 3/8” UNF threaded bolts that hold this suspension assembly together. Some bolts are unique to the weasel having machined tapers on their ends. All of the bolts will need to Have their threads chased and then bead blasted etc.. You can guarantee that most of the external tooth lock washers will be past their use by date. I could add lots more but I am sure that will keep yourself amused for many hours restoring this sub assembly. I did😄😄
  8. @Patrick TiptonThe sponson is really starting to take shape now. Well done! You will have to agree that its a lot easier to fabricate off the vehicle 😀 When you recondition your bogey wheel yokes, I would recommend investing in a thread tap to clean the threads in the yokes. I got mine off ebay but with you being in the US of A, it should be a lot easier to track down these old imperial thread taps from your local engineering parts outlets.
  9. Not a lot happening on the weasel in the last two days as I have had home Reno’s to do. But I did install the rubber seal on the front engine divider panel and I also installed my fire extinguisher bracket. The fire ex. bracket was made by a very talented fellow in the US of A. Unfortunately his details were lost when the previous weasel forum died.
  10. Hard to believe that after 20 years I have finally got my weasel back on its suspension and bogey wheels. My knees are paying for it tonight☹️☹️Just to mention a few parts that I have replaced; All of the suspension bolts and suspension bolt sleeves, NOS rubber bump stops, NOS bogey wheels and hub seals plus more. This is very time consuming work.
  11. I am on a holiday break which means I can progress the weasel restoration. Today’s effort was to start assembling the suspension. I am happy with today’s progress. The parts are getting heavier though. When I am finished with the passenger side I will tip the hull over and assemble the driver’s side. I am not quite sure how I am going to do the lift yet. The final drive looks resplendent in a coat of OD
  12. Just a left of centre thought, would it possible to adapt a Studebaker automatic transmission to your standard Weasel Champion engine? https://www.yumpu.com/en/document/read/33760245/transmission-from-studebaker-international
  13. @Patrick Tipton Ah Patrick, the controls are an assembly that you can spend an exhobitent amount of time restoring. Trust me, I know from experience. First off you can almost guarantee that this collar; https://www.ebay.com/itm/M29-C-Studebaker-Weasel-Spacer-Shifter-Hand-Lever-1-Required/333333729974?hash=item4d9c3d12b6:g:F1cAAOSwTgxdgQLQ is frozen solid with rust and corrosion onto the shift lever shaft. You need to free this collar to get the shift lever assembly apart. Enjoy! A lot of the bronze bushings will be toast as well. In my case I had to replace some of them. I also took the liberty of machining grease ways in the shafts to allow the levers to operate smoothly and also to allow me to get the assembly apart if needs be. There is also a Modification that came out to strengthen the steering levers.
  14. I bench tested my fuel gauge and sender unit before installation.
  15. The weasel restoration show continues. Today's instalment is making a set of seal retainer plates for the front engine divider panel. Although not quite OEM I don’t have the special industrial stapling tool needed to staple the sealing rubber to the metal. The last photo shows the finished product on the rear engine divider panel. BTW, again the rubber is not OEM but is very practical and durable for the job at hand.
  16. @04mustang This company many years ago put a lot of effort into developing a home grown OEM style weasel track. http://www.carrolltech.com/ I note that they still have the Weasel in their website. Why not give them a call?
  17. @M29 Brilliant work Dan. 👍 The advances in both technology and innovation being applied to weasel restoration over the years never ceases to amaze me. Well done!
  18. That is an elegant solution to effect repairs to the hull bottom. Its a damn sight harder to cut out and replace the floor. Well done. 👍
  19. Having to do some more rust repair work on my hull. Unfortunately but not unexpected, more rust and corrosion was exposed after sandblasting.
  20. After many frustrating months, the final drive is back together. Just needs a coat of OD. Before anyone says it is supposed to be painted grey, my final drive was painted OD with no hint of grey underneath.
  21. @Patrick Tipton <<<There is a strange little brass bolt on the lower edge of the dash. It looks like a wire is supposed to pass through there. I don't think it is correct for the T24 - anyone recognize the part? >>>> Patrick, as a guess, it looks to be the remains of the outer part of the M29C Capstan winch engagement cable?????? Does it have a hex nut underneath? BTW keep up the inspiring work. You are raising the restoration bar even higher with this T24 restoration👍
  22. @Patrick Tipton Patrick, I do believe that its well worth the effort to at least open the final drive to do an internal inspection. The last thing I expected to find was a giant rats nest inside! Still waiting for the gasket paper to arrive to finally box it up.
  23. Very quiet on the weasel restoration. I am still waiting for my hull to come back from the Sandblaster. Today I assembled the crown wheel and planetary gears into the final drive. Cleaning the Rat detritus from the final drive has been a real challenge. My advice to other weasel owners, don’t pull apart your final drive unless you really really have to. Happy snaps attached.
×
×
  • Create New...