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OZM29C

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Everything posted by OZM29C

  1. I had planned to partially assemble the final drive this weekend but I was unhappy with the deep pitting in the larger pinion bearing cup. I have decided to replace both the pinion cup and cone. Getting the cone off the pinion shaft was a time consuming adventure. My angle grinder proved to be just the tool I needed to get the cone off. I then assembled one of the front idler wheels. I have purposely left the outer rim off the assembly until I fit the tracks. Regrettably the time has come to retire my favourite weasel fest ball caps. They gave sterling service πŸ™‚
  2. Inspiration work. Well doneπŸ‘πŸ‘ The standard of restoration workmanship that weasel owners aspire to nowadays is truly astounding. Keep the updates coming.
  3. Moving forward. The first photo shows the leading casing of the final drive resplendent in a coat of etch primer after steam cleaning and spot blasting. Now I can start to assemble the final drive. The second photo shows before and after photos of the fuel filter that I had to revisit. I wrongly plumbed up the fuel filter for an electric in tank fuel pump, not the mechanical pump that I have fitted to my weasel. The fuel filter will be ready to go when the orange epoxy dries.
  4. The show goes on. Today's instalment is the high low range selector from the final drive. Disassembled, cleaned, bead blasted, etch primed, assembled and a new gasket cut. I noted when cleaning it that the initial coat of paint was grey, then OD covered in a liberal coated of cosmoline preservative.
  5. Its the small jobs that take time to complete. Here is the final drive speedometer drive and housing. Cleaned, bead blasted, etch primed, new gasket cut (same thickness as original) gasket and mud wasp nests evicted from the speedometer drive shaft.
  6. Didn’t get a lot of weasel work done on the weekend as I did a 1200km down and back round trip to Sydney on Saturday. Today I took all of the remaining weasel sheet metal, brackets, bows etc into the Sandblaster. Should have the gear back in two weeks. I also fitted and bent the fuel tank and fuel filter drain lines. I have taken them off now so that I can bead blast and etch prime them.
  7. More felt strips and facsimile staples added to the steering cross shaft cover panel. Another tick in the box.
  8. Hot off the production line are the two small air deflectors that are never seen. I have beadblasted and painted the metal angle pieces, cut out new felt strips and then attached them to the angle pieces using facsimile staples with a bit of help from some silicon. Another tick in the box.
  9. On the weekend I managed to get some more small parts painting done which in turn allowed me to assemble the clutch and accelerator pedal assembly. I also got the final drive fully disassembled to clean out the Rat detritus. The leaves and grunge in the photos are just a fraction of what I found inside when I split the final drive casings.
  10. @Patrick Tipton The T24 here at home has what i believe is an original battery tray retaining strap. Would you like closup photos?
  11. Didn't get a lot done on the weasel this weekend. Unusually though, it rained and it washed the dust off the assorted panels I have sitting outside in the weasel hull waiting to be taken in for sandblasting. I noticed the faint traces of lettering on one of the bow water deflector panels (sits behind the surfshield). Grabbed my magnifying glass and and ink pen and traced out what I could see. Picture syas it all. I wonder if this was amilitary or civilian rescue vehicle? I also assembled the upper capstan winch drive.
  12. The Weasel bead blasting and etch priming show rolls on. Today's instalment.
  13. Now the large air deflector is done, its time to turn my attention to the two smaller low mounted air deflectors. I purchased a pair of NOS air deflectors many years ago and unfortunately the fibre material is so brittle, it almost crumbles when touched. I have made a drawing to print out full size and I will cut the replacements out of felt. Weasel Air deflector.pdf
  14. Just finished another weasel job, the restoration of the radiator air deflector panel. This is one of those obscure parts that is generally missing from a weasel. I managed to save the original felt. After blasting, filling in the extra hole, then some OD paint I replaced the felt using facsimile staples made from 1.6mm 316 Stainless TIG welder wire. Another tick in the box.
  15. @Patrick Tipton Inspirational πŸ‘ You probably already know but there is a footman loop to be added to your new sponson. Pictures tell the story.
  16. Last job of the day was to extract the hull from the shed and place it under the gantry in readiness to load the hull on to my trailer to take it in for sandblasting.
  17. Next on the list was to fit the stretcher pockets and rudder support brackets. I temporarily mounted my NOS rudders so that I could adjust the rudder stops. Note the offset angle on the outer strecher pocket. I thought that the holes had been drilled incorrectly but when I checked the other rear float tank that I have here, it was exactly the same. Is there a reason why????? The other unusual observation I made is that the inner stretcher pocket is larger in overall size as compared to the outer.
  18. Another big day on my weasel restoration. First task was painting. I painted the inner side of the rear float tank and also the areas where fittings bolt onto the tank. Also painted my NOS exhaust screen, and Capstan winch and touched up the front idler arms and springs.
  19. Next task was to mount the newly assembled sprokets onto the final drive carrier. I finally got to use my hub seal installation tool (painted red in the photo) that I made years ago. I also used the Caterpillar seals and @Gszechy excellent weasel washer kit that he makes. https://www.garysbunker.com/shop/m29-parts/thrust-lock-dust-shield-kit/ A worthy investment.
  20. Next task was to fit the sprockets onto the hub. Took a little bit of extra fitting work as the inned guide plate had moved when I tightened up the outer fasteners. I used grade 8 High tensile bolts and high nuts as per the OEM to fasten the assembly together. I also fitted the 45 angle grease nipple as recommended by @Bill Wolf
  21. Todays weasel work; First off I made some plywood covers for the final drive housing. No expense spared πŸ™‚ The covers will protect the machined surfaces from the sand blasting and painting.
  22. @Larry Mass @Patrick Tipton Patrick should have TM11-2733 Installation of Radio Equipment in Carrier Cargo, Light, M29 or M29C (Amphibian) available through Portrayal Press. I think that this TM may help to shed some light on what could have been installed in a T15
  23. Hub/sprockets were assembled this weekend. Really time consuming job. I used Cone lock nuts on the countersink head bolts to hold the assembly together. Cone lock nuts are an interference fit onto the bolt but a less likely to work loose when compared to other fasteners. I have loose assembled the idler arm spring to the idler arm but before I go further, can anyone shed some light on the correct orientation of the spring to the arm?
  24. Great project. I am sure that you will be keen to remove the surplus scrap metal ASAP. Please post photos of the interior and keep us informed on your restoration progress.
  25. The weasel restoration show rolls on. I am bead blasting and etch priming the drive wheels that attach to the rear drive sprockets . This is #3 of 4 wheels. Once the wheels are in OD paint I can assemble the drive sprockets and then put another tick in the box. If you look carefully at the wheels you can see that I have previously removed the inner reinforcing plate and re-purposed that plate as a guide to help feed the track guides into the LAR drive sprockets. Happy snaps attached.
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