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OZM29C

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Everything posted by OZM29C

  1. Finally found a suitable SAE 30 oil, that is available locally, for my final drive thanks to advice from Brock J. and Doug Mac. and others. See attachment. What amuses me is that I now need to order One imperial gallon can plus 2 x 1 litre containers of oil to fill the final drive that needs six US Quarts 🙄🙄🙄 CAstrol Classic XL30.pdf
  2. Well as they say, life can be two steps forward and then one step backwards. Last Sunday was the one step backwards day. I went to connect up my final drive brake control linkages and found that I had mis 'timed' the steering brake camshafts. Unfortunately it means that I again have to split the final drive, lift it out and make the necessary adjustments. Fortunately this will cost nothing $$$$$ wise but will put a dent in my restoration timeline and pride. Stay tuned.
  3. Dave Yamulla would be your best bet. He lists them in his spares list; http://militaryvehiclesupply.net/list/12
  4. Today’s effort was focused in the drivers area. First job was to fit the dashboard. A character building job 😲😲 and yes I did scratch some paint . Next job was to install the cross shaft cover(behind the driver). Last job was to install the accelerator linkage and the linkage cover.
  5. Another tricky weasel job out of the way. I have fitted the transmission shift rails. Normally a straight forward job had they not been bent to accommodate the raising of the hull by 100mm/4inches. Anyway it shift smoothly now.
  6. The steering tillers and gear shift assembly is finally in. What should’ve been a straight forward job blew out to 5 hours of hand fitting, die grinding, machining and welding to get it in.
  7. @Patrick TiptonGreat work👍. Before you know it, the hull will be done. I am looking forward to the next instalment on this T24 restoration journey.
  8. Today’s lunchtime efforts were directed to finishing the weasel heat shield. This involved fitting facsimile staples to the felt strip. It’s a fiddly time consuming job. Now that this little part is done, I have cleared the roadblock to getting the dashboard and instrument panel installed.
  9. Thought I would add some more on how I made the rudder cables. Brock J. sent me a photo of the original ends (fitted to his weasel) that had been crimped onto the cable. I made a crimping tool to emulate the original crimps. I also had to machine new replacement threaded ends. Last but not least I made some removable wire stops which go inside the steerer. This was a handy mod as it meant that I could adjust the length of the steering cables to ensure that the cable was at the right tension and the steerer was centred with the rudders aligned fore and aft.
  10. Rudder Steerer in position, rudder cable conduits adjusted/fitted and then clamped in position, rudder cables installed and adjusted. This was a very time consuming job. Just needs a touch up with some OD.
  11. Surf shield on, right side deflector fitted, fuel tank straps fitted, fuel filler neck and collar fitted. More room now in my shed👍👍
  12. The weasel has had a real change of personality after I applied the first coat of olive drab to the outer hull.
  13. Exhaust pipe installed complimented by a NOS muffler and a NOS muffler guard
  14. @KcanarrRegrettably I am not an expert on tracks. I bit the bullet and purchased a set of LAR tracks to avoid the kind of problems that you are having. Having said that, put simply, there are 55 and 56 Grouser tracks. They in turn have different track pitches. Each type of track has a matching specific diameter drive wheel (what the sprocket is attached to). I am not sure what the diameters are so I would hope that other could add to this post. This topic was discussed at length on the old weasel forum so I would hope that perhaps @Byronwould have kept copies of this information.
  15. @Patrick TiptonWell done👍👍 Time to get it into a primer coat now.
  16. Well my first Engine Compartment heat seal was a dismal failure. I tried to test fit it on the steering/gear shift assembly and it simply would not fit! I rechecked my drawing and found that I had stuffed up the conversion of one of the old imperial measurements into Metric. It was easier to make a replacement with a slot cutout rather than try to modify the first. I will see how it fits later this arvo.
  17. @KcanarrYou will need to beg, borrow or steal 😀 a Weasel special tool (Highlighted below) to either make a copy from or to use to tension your tracks. It would be nice to have a track jack to go with it as well but I ended up making a tensioning device out of somescrap heavy duty threaded rod. The spring tensioning bracket is really the only way to easily tension your tracks.
  18. Work in progress. This is my interpretation (so far) of the engine compartment heat seal. This seal is fashioned off the later style metal (and I think felt???) heat seal.
  19. Today's effort was to resurrect the fuel tank straps. I found the remains of a set of straps years ago. I have salvaged the ends from the old straps and then grafted the original ends onto some new strapping. I had to modify my top straps as there is not enough clearance between the top of the fuel tank and the upper hull. My repo fuel tank is about 10mm higher as compared to an original fuel tank. I have therefore made the top straps removable. Now to bead blast and paint them.
  20. @M29C3284That is truely a very intersting history of the Swedish Weasel. 👍👍👍
  21. @KcanarrThe TM recommends to remove the outer front idler wheel. Try that and see how you go.
  22. @M29C3284I also replaced my engine ground strap on the drivers side engine mount, the same position as @F-D Zernia. Having said that, I had to put the strap to the lower side of the mount as the VWM repo strap would not fit correctly on the top side. Mandatory happy snap below.
  23. @M29C3284Do you have the Swedish modified float tanks to go on your weasel?
  24. Another big day on the weasel today. Here is a list of jobs carried out; Connected the front capstan winch driveshaft to the crankshaft pulley Connected the Clutch cable to the bell housing support bracket Installed the transmission shift lever shaft assembly Installed the lower radiator rubber drain hose Installed the lower radiator elbow and flexible hose - I am not sure if using the period radiator hose clamps was a good idea. They are extremely hard to get at with a screwdriver. Connected the flexible fuel line to the hard line adjacent the fuel pump Installed the water pump fan - It just clears the capstan winch drive by a hairs width, phew! Installed the radiator top hose Installed the Voltage regulator and support bracket and connected the generator wiring Laid out the main wiring harness - I have discovered that the VWM wiring harness does not contain the blackout and headlight wiring harness. Bloody frustrating as I paid top $$$$$ for this harness kit. Lubricated and installed the steering/high low range cross shaft and finally fitted the small cover that goes on top of the cross shaft (behind the driver) Time to have a break from the weasel for a few days. Cheers
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