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OZM29C

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Everything posted by OZM29C

  1. OZM29C
    @Jesse BrowningI had a small taste of those pleasures yesterday when I installed the front engine mouting bolts. They must have employed height challenged assembly workers at Studebaker to get into these tight spots😀.
  2. OZM29C
    @M29C3284Great Work there, Its the small items that can take a lot of time to repair/replace. Looking forward to hearing about the Bandwagon modifications.
  3. OZM29C
    @Byron Nope, as Elmer Fudd said 'Be vewy vewy careful'. I had the engine and transmission on a slight angle down at the transmission end and then gently fed the transmission under the engine bulhead while manipulating the water pump to clear the fan shroud and radiator inlet. I don't think you would be able to use this method with the later T90 transmission.
  4. OZM29C
    Today I have achieved another major milestone in that I now have the engine lifted into place. BTW, the engine will go in with the transmission in place but as Elmer Fudd used to say; 'Be very very careful'. I used my portable gantry to do the lift. Now onto the interesting work (Finally)
  5. OZM29C
    Thanks @M29 Dan, I too found the LAR track as being a tight fit and like you I had a selection of ratchets straps, an engine hoist and various pry bars to get the track on. Oh and plenty of thinking time 😀.
  6. OZM29C
    After two days of bloody hard work I have finally mounted the passenger side LAR track and also I have tensioned both of the tracks. I don't have a tension gauge as shown in the TM so I have had to wing it to tension the tracks. What I have now is the idler springs stop brackets (the brackets that mount to the hull with two bolts and the unusual heavy duty lockwashers) set in their minimum position. This has left the LAR track with little flop between the return rollers and both the leading and final bogey wheels are about 50mm (2inches) off the ground. Of interst the track tension has pulled the the suspension springs and bogey wheels into perpendicular alignment. Now onto the engien and transmission install. I would imagine that there will be some stretch in the tracks when I start to use the weasel.
  7. OZM29C

    3 New questions

    OZM29C replied to Byron's topic in Headquarters

    Hi Byron, Can't answer your fuel tank and fuel pump questions as I have the mechanical fuel pump and a metal fuel tank however I can offer my thoughts on the third. I have taken the advice from my engine builder and retained the 180 thermostat. My weasel will not do a lot of lengthy running and the advice I received was thats its better for the engine to run at 180 in order to help burn off the contaminants in the engine oil (that accumulate from short runs) and also helps to reduce wear on the engine components. Thats the theory anyway so I will see how it goes when put into practiuce.
  8. OZM29C
    First LAR track is on, just need to tension the track. Bloody hard work to fit a track by myself. I am glad that I ‘invested’ in the LAR track as I do intend to operate my Weasel in the water. A thrown track in the water would be catastrophic. New track will give me piece of mind. I am hoping the second track will be easier to fit now I know the shortcuts. The resto gets more interesting after the tracks, the engine and transmission go into the hull. Merry Christmas to all.
  9. OZM29C
    Yes Patrick @Patrick Tipton the weasel is really starting to come together now. I may not comment much on your T24 hull repair workmanship but rest assured I do follow your progress. Well done on your efforts to finally wrap up the hull repairs. Hope you and your family have a very Merry Christmas and a safe, happy and prosperous New Year. Cheers John
  10. OZM29C
    Thanks Byron, Merry Christmas to you and your family as well. I am working on installing the tracks at the moment. I am only part way through fitting the first track so no photos as yet. One thing I have found that its bloody hard work fitting a track by myself. Anyway I have got the Xmas New Year break to progress this task. Long term, the engine install comes after the tracks. Cheers John
  11. OZM29C
    I have finished fitting the blackout light and head light wiring conduits. Just needs a coat of OD. I am not sure what the original conduits looked like but I am happy with these.
  12. OZM29C
    The 7/16” UNF half nuts arrived today which meant that I could install the rear marker lamp.
  13. OZM29C
    Another time consuming task that I have been working on is the installation of both the headlight and blackout lights. To date, the wiring conduit has been bent and the VWM wiring threaded through.
  14. OZM29C
    @Patrick Tipton Great job Patrick👍👍 This area under the radiator is very prone to corrosion. My weasel being no different to yours. That double layered sheet metal skin is a rust trap. I rotary wire brushed the area and then treated it with a anti corrosive rust killing compound before replacing the outer skin. The repair will well and truly see my lifetime out. This is a good time to check the condition of the threads that secure the idler spring adjusting brackets in place. Attached are some happy snaps showing the repair I carried out on my friends T24 hull
  15. OZM29C
    @SeabeeparkeThis Norwegian drawing might be of help to you. Cheers
  16. OZM29C
    Hi Fred, @F-D ZerniaThe felt retainer can be easily removed with a sharp pointed instrument like a scriber or dental pick. No need to remove the retaining collar. Attached are a couple photos showing the dimensions of the NOS felt seals I have. I hope that they will help. As for a circus performer, reaching down to the lower retainer bolts through the upper access hatch without falling in headfirst is challenging if you don't have long arms 😀 Cheers
  17. OZM29C
    Rear float tank fully secured. Today I test fitted the drivers side track apron. Only had to make minor adjustments to the rear bracket
  18. OZM29C
    Rear float tank photo 2
  19. OZM29C
    Now that the heatwave has passed, its time to get back to work on the weasel. Today’s efforts were focused on both painting and installing the rear float tank. I was virtually a circus contortionist doing up the mounting bolts inside the tank. Anyway only a few mounting bolts to go and the jobs done.
  20. OZM29C
    @Patrick TiptonMaxwell Smart had the right statement for your Plug welding - And Loving it😀😀 Keep up the good work. I looked at a photo of my friend Steve's T24 Dash panel/instrument cover and noted that the capstan winch operating handle recess will have to go on your dash panel. Having said that I am more than certain you already know. By patching the rectangular hole in the ash I am also sure that you are not going to retain the accelerator mod kit. This was retrofitted to Steve's T24.
  21. OZM29C
    The Ventilator lid and the associated linkages have been fitted
  22. OZM29C
    Byron, Brilliant work as usual. Just remember that old Chinese proverb; Confucius says 'Man who does not crack test crank and fit aluminium camshaft drive gear will not drive weasel very long' Cheers John
  23. OZM29C
    Thanks Patrick, next task on the agenda is to install the rear flotation tank. The tracks will be the very last job as the weasel is much easier to move around on the bogey wheels as opposed to the tracks.
  24. OZM29C
    @Patrick TiptonI can really appreciate the good work you are doing there. Well done👍👍 Per chance, have you included the two tapped threads in the contour flange in the area I have highlighted in your photos. They bolts hold in place a small sheet metal cover.
  25. OZM29C
    I managed to install the final drive, outer hubs and track sprockets this weekend. It got up to 40 on Saturday so I had to pull up stumps on the job mid afternoon and adjourn to the Air Conditioning. Anyway Photo 1 shows a hub retaining bolt and importantly the copper washer needed to seal the bolt. I got my copper washers from Swagelok; https://www.swagelok.com/en/catalog/Product/Detail?part=CU-8-RP-2 I am sure that the copper washers are available from other vendors. Next I had to fit new felt oil seals into the final drive housing. I got the seals off ebay many years ago and I have never seen them since. I then lifted the final drive into the hull using a soft sling and my 'El Cheapo' lifting apparatus. I had a good deal of difficulty offering up the outer hubs into the final drive housing. In the end I used two long bolts to pull the outer hub into position BTW I did fit new gaskets to the outer hubs. Once the final drive was bolted into position (not forgetting the spacer shims) I fitted the final drive casing breather. I was more than happy to get this job out of the way. I just have to install the axle shafts now.
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