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OZM29C

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Everything posted by OZM29C

  1. @Patrick TiptonOne last thing with water pumps. Dont forget to fit the bearing retainer. Photo below. As for engines, nothing beats hands on experience. Having the right tool for the job is also a good start. I had no choice with my valve seats. They were beyond redemption so I had the machine shop fit hardened seats. Keep that March madness coming👍👍
  2. @Patrick Tipton Patrick, the only safe way I found to remove a water pump pulley without damaging it was by the use of a purpose built strong-back made from a section of heavy duty steel flat bar. I have attached a photo showing the set up. BTW this photo was just for the camera to illustrate how I did it. I machined a recess into the bar to allow the fan spigot to sit freely into which in turn allowed the pulley face to sit flush against the strong-back and in turn when the securing bolts were tightened, they would exert and even force on the casting. I also drilled a 16mm hole in the centre to allow a 5/8" mandrel/drift to push against the water pump shaft. A lot of work but this method prevents any force being applied to the fragile outer edge. I also use this on Jeep water pump pulleys as well. Cheers JW
  3. This company ventured down this path of reproducing tracks and bands and unfortunately it all came to naught. http://www.carrolltech.com/ Good luck with your venture.
  4. @Patrick Tipton Re the steering, I have found in my short runs that to make the weasel turn at very slow speed I need to exert a firm pressure on the tillers however at speed, to quote you guys ‘it turns on a dime’. The extra weight of the flotation gear might have something to do with the steering. The steering bands will need to bed in as well. Would a drain tube and oil pick up screen be available from Studebaker parts? If it’s any conciliation, the oil pick up screen on my engine had all but corroded away when I dropped the sump. Keep up the March madness👍👍
  5. @Patrick TiptonImpressive work Patrick👍👍Will you be fitting the tiller arm reinforcements? Might be a worthy mod to consider looking at the repairs already done on one of your tiller arms. I would get that radiator checked by a radiator shop and if good, use it. I too have French rebuild kit in my weasel as well.
  6. @5280Beltfed I picked up my new 160F high flow thermostat this morning. It has the bypass hole in it. Note the packaging, it says “performance”😄
  7. @Patrick TiptonPatrick, would Mike Howard https://www.libertyar.com/ be worth contacting about seat backs. He used to make them?
  8. @ByronHi Byron, the photos better show what I was describing. I was outbid on ebay years ago for these. Cheers
  9. @Byron Byron, does your weasel have the late production rear axle hub stay rods. That mod would also definitely help with the Staaman tracks.
  10. Hi Byron, The Thermostat I have ordered for my weasel is a 160F high flow with jigger fitted. That is the small hole you were talking about. Doug MacCarthy also mentioned that he is planning to mount his thermostat lower in the cylinder head as well. I have an idea on how to do it but I won't know if it will work until I get my new thermostat. If it does I will send over some pictures for you. BZ on your workmanship. Is this weasel a keeper or do you plan to sell it? It would be a real help to other restorers if you could re post the restoration story and photos of your old weasel on this forum. Cheers JOhn
  11. @F-D ZerniaFred, further to my last, I believe that weasels hat went into the Letterkenny rebuild programme suffered the same fate as Jeeps that were rebuilt post war. They were stripped down to there individual components, each component was rebuilt/repaired and then the weasels were reassembled from ready use components. My hull number is 7333 but my front float tank is from a very late production weasel that had the added blackout driving light. For interest attached are photos of my donor letterkenny weasel and the stencilling on the front float tank.
  12. @F-D Zernia Fred, at present the engine is running way too hot. I am waiting for a new high flow 160F thermostat to arrive. Doug Macarthy has his thermostat sitting lower into the head so I will also incorporate that mod as well. My weasel restoration theme is based on a weasel that rolled off the Letterkenny rebuild line so a lot of features I have on my weasel may not be right for a factory restoration. For example; Semi gloss OD, white stencilling, rotary light switch and accelerator pedal mod. I don’t know much about letterkenny other than what’s on google and nothing on weasel rebuilds.
  13. I tried to get some more OD painting done today but I couldn’t get any enamel thinners in town. I had to content myself with applying some stencils instead. The black coloured stencils are copied from originals that were on my float tanks. When I get another coat of OD on the hull sides I will finish applying the stencils. The stencils came from Axholme Signs in the UK.
  14. @ByronMate, I just think it was a simple case of metal fatigue. Easy repair though. I just did not repair it that day as it was a 37 degree day. A lot hotter inside my shed. I will have the weasel back up and running for the weekend as I still have a way to go checking and testing it.
  15. After resolving the fan blades touching the winch drive shaft problem, I took the weasel for a test drive. I had only got a few hundred metres up the road to have the engine stop dead on me. I thought that I had run out of petrol. After suffering the indignity of having to tow the weasel back home with the tractor, this morning’s investigation revealed that the carburettor choke cable support bracket had snapped in half and subsequently the tension in the choke cable pulled the choke fully on. Easy fix. Glad I found it now rather than on the water.
  16. I have installed the rear floor pan, inspection covers, demolition box and final drive cover plate. The rear floor pan was for want of a better word ‘Perfect’. All I had to do was blast and paint it. No sheet metal work whatsoever.
  17. After driving it for the very first time I have to say that it is a most unusual vehicle but definitely lots of fun. Plenty of power. I can’t wait to swim it. Just doing the finishing up work on it now. Rear floor pan went in today. Some more jewellery needs to be fitted; ORD plate, Letterkenny rebuild plate. Cord o matic reel, spotlight handgrip and bracket, seat backs need new cushion foam glued on, more OD painting, stencils on, grease suspension, bogey wheel bearings and idler/drive wheel hubs, fit headlight bulb and fit single battery into the dual battery carrier. So still a way to go yet.
  18. @ByronMate, you make the job look so easy😀 Well done👍
  19. @Patrick Tipton Once again Patrick you have excelled yourself. The finishing work will take a lot longer than you think. Here's one check to do while you are at this stage. I ran the rear marker lamp wire yesterday and the wire was contained/supported by a series of very light gauge sheet metal retaining tabs. The wire runs down the passenger side inside the channel and then crosses the hull at the rear. It might pay to check that all of the wiring tabs are in place. Without them the wire loom will just flop down and look unsightly.
  20. @Patrick TiptonHi Patrick, I hope my other video will upload better. Weasel Video.xspf
  21. @Patrick TiptonAfter 22 years and 3 months I finally drove the weasel out of the shed under its own power. I am relieved that the marathon restoration is finally drawing to a close. IMG_3784.MOV
  22. @Patrick TiptonI am sure that you are really looking forward to getting to the end of this conga line of hull repairs. You are almost done👍👍 I left a few minor blemishes in my hull, I guess to reflect the age of the vehicle. Do you have the air drop brackets and fittings? Please keep the pictures and comments coming?
  23. The final drive axle is now in place. Now I have to repeat this job tomorrow.
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