Jesse Browning
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Everything posted by Jesse Browning
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Rebuilding the latches is simple. Open the barrel by grinding or drilling off the crimped end of the rivet. On this particular one, both ends were crimped. Drive the rivet out with a punch.
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A lot of rare parts there.
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Looks like the same idea I used when I rebuilt mine a few years ago. Are they endless? Are they for 25, or 26 shoe ( I think that the numbers)? I had some repair belts I used to locate all the holes in my first rebuild. Turned out the spacing was for the different number of grousers. It caused my grouser edges to rub together and a lot of them had to be rewelded the second time around. I used elevator bolts, which looks kind of cool but adds a huge amount of work and expense. I’d be interested in a set of 4 endless bands 7 inches wide with the holes already punched.
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Weasel parts available for sale.
Jesse Browning replied to Jesse Browning's topic in Buy, Sell, Trade
Near Chicago. -
Serial numbers? Mine: 11731. Ord: 5970. Body 7293. USA 40196127S.
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Grind off the small rivet head and punch it out. Remove the cotter pin at the end of the shaft. When done, you can replace the rivet, or use a small screw and nut.
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The hold downs for the splash shield are different than the seat hold downs. I think they are just longer, but have never had an original to examine.
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Almost all the parts on this weasel were in remarkably nice shape. Other than one missing seal, one missing key, and some of the outer washers inside the wheels, they were in great shape. The suspension bolts were nice shape also. None were plugged as on previous restoration.
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Thanks.
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Weasel parts available for sale.
Jesse Browning replied to Jesse Browning's topic in Buy, Sell, Trade
Sure. What do you need? -
It has nicest fuel tank Ive seen on any WWII vehicle.
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Will have data plates, and stretcher foot pockets
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It will have complete rudder system.
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We will be completing an M29C weasel in a few weeks. The hull was stripped and sandblasted. All suspension was dissassembled, cleaned, repaired if needed. Engine torn down. Float tanks reskined. Has all floor sections, winch parts, skirts. Engine section partitions. Original sprockets like new. New rubber on sprocket wheels. All other rubber in nice shape. One track has 3 repairs. The other track is intact. One seat. No wipers. Starting at about $35k US. It’s easier to email picture to interested parties. It will go on Milweb when finished.
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Not sure of the number. It’s the one that goes in the M-3 halftrack.
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Earlier there was discussion about the hat channel under the fuel tank. Your add reminded me to respond. I think the cutout was so there wouldn’t be a pressure point on the stud for the electric fuel pump that came later.
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- restoration thread
- hull & sheet metal
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They’re still there. $45 per wheel. I thought about buying a few but have no use for them now. It always happens that way. A halftrack pedestal, cradle, and can holder fell into my lap now that I dont have anything to put it in.
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The half track, scout car, and even the radial engine in the Sexton used the same basic fuel pump. Anyone know of a source for just the diaphragms?
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That’s what I say, but not what I do.
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You might check a set of bogey seals And bearings to see how they are. Unless you drive it in sand or water every day the seals aren’t that important. Just keeps them greased up. I wouldn’t spend any time resurfacing the idler wheels when they are available on ebay for $45 NOS. That cheaper than I paid 6 years ago to have a set resurfaced.
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I would see how it steers before you tear down the diff. That a lot of work.
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Dave. Do you have the data plate with the raised characters on the rear right of the bulkhead? I have data plate 433 that came with some parts years ago.
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I have found that it doesn’t matter what temperature the metal is, as long as the paint is warm. Have been seen with 4 cans of spray paint in my shirt to keep them warm. After the unpleasant task of putting on the COLD respirator when its 15 degrees in the barn, I have to be careful not to drip the condensation onto the work.
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