Jesse Browning

Mostly original parts from a 1930s South American contract. Most numbers match. Cradle and can holder are original. Pedestal is perfect, may or may not be original. Socket looks original. Comes with A6 buttstock, bipod, flash hider. Those 3 items are Izzy. BNC connector for electric. Small gas connectors. Coil, valves, board are inside gun. $2100. Jesse.

What are these holes for in the windshield frame? There are 4 or so frames around here and they all have them.

These tracks are original. The ones I rebuilt before look very similar to the one in your picture.

On the road.

Were going to go ahead and price out some endless bands for track rebuilding. I did this about 6 years ago and then the price for 4 bands was about $1,200. At the time, I went the cheap route and bought used conveyor belt. The bands will be 7 inches wide. I haven’t decided on the thickness yet. I want to use OEM sprockets. There was discussion on the old weasel forum about tracks and sprockets but I don’t remember. Can OEM sprockets be used with thinner bands? Does the grouser spacing have to be changed? The tracks I built before used 1” conveyor by 7” wide. The only problems I encountered were breaking of bolts because I used cheap bolts. I have not broken any of the hardened bolt used to replace the broken ones. A problem with buying used belt is that it may not be straight. Mine are not straight and you can feel and hear it.

I see some waves in the side. I also see the “down” rope dangerously close to being fouled in the engine. He also has the engine angled different from what the manual says. I tried his way, and it works better.

Nice. One of our floater hulls had been almost completely skinned with 16 gauge steel. They did a really nice job. I can imagine that took a huge amount of time. Then it was primed a bright yellow. Anyone know where that might have been done?

Weasels were scarce in both. Even more scarce were markings and record keeping. They were on Iwo Jima, and the sixth Marine Division had at least one on Okinawa. Looks like the Seabees tried them out.

I found that just about everything on the hull is easier to work on if its on its side.

Looks great!

Here are 3 M29Cs to add. 1) SN: 10986 no tag or reg number. Engine: T24I7410 2) SN: 55-69 no tag or reg number. Engine: T24I3687 3) engine number only: T24I0728

Ive used straight 30 weight in all three major components. Ive used Valvoline almost all my life. No particular reason, just habit. Lately Ive used Tractor Supply’s house brand because I’m limited in where I can shop.

Thanks Doug.

We acquired a set of top bows with this last weasel. Don’t know if its original or not. Looks kind of hokey. It’s missing the two rods (D). Question: how do rods (D) attach to (B), and (E)? Also, is the height of (B) the same as of (C)? Thanks.

Nice work. I found when I rebuilt my T-90 back in 2013 that there were several rock crawler companies that had single parts to entire transmissions for sale.

I saw some NOS pumps for sale a few years ago. Anyone still have any?

I rebuilt one a few years ago. It was pretty corroded, but I was able to clean it up and get it working. It quit again last year, and we replaced it with a modern low pressure in -tank pump. I think it was from a Cadillac or something. We attached it to the bracket for tho original pump.

M29c

Ill dig out the original plate and look at it.

Hull data plate that came on a spare bulkhead.

I used to know where to get the spring. Maybe someone else can chime in on that. Thanks to my son for providing the pictures. I probably would have lost a finger if I had tried that now.

The barrel can be reattached to the head with a screw and nut, or rivets can be used like the original build.

The rod can be center drilled on the lathe in order to form a new peened end, or it can be drilled for a pin. We used a pin on this one. The rod will be about 1/8” shorter than it was before. All the internal parts, including the rod can be discarded and new ones installed. I used stainless rods on mine before. I found that 1/4” lock washers bent flat work perfectly for the washers. A cotter pin can be used, but may not clear the sides of the barrel. Here a piece of heavy wire was used.

The end of this rod was set by a rivet tool. Some Ive seen had a pin to retain the washer. Grind off the peened end, or remove the pin. Then it all comes apart.