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Patrick Tipton

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Everything posted by Patrick Tipton

  1. Cross shaft support bracket repaired and installed. I need to do a little more work on the cover. Interesting that there was some type of wear strip on the bottom of the cover...presumably a canvas strip.....this one has the staples still in it. I also fabbed a new support bracket for the steering arms - install on Friday after I repair the steering arm control shaft...
  2. Nice looking belt but not quite the right animal. I will get you pictures later today if someone doesn't beat me to it!
  3. Good thought - I am not sure if Mike is making them anymore. I actually bought some parts from him and will speak with him this week and ask him! Patrick
  4. Welcome aboard Will. At this point, I don't know of anyone making either. Russ Morgan still had some seat backs last time I spoke with him. I think @Jesse Browningmade some of the seat attachment brackets or you could fab the seats...but beyond that... As for seat belts, I think you are going to be searching. If you look around the aviation world, there are some very similar type buckles and any of the canvas suppliers can make the actual belts.... Patrick
  5. Very cool - congratulations Byron! Fantastic work. That spark issue is strange. Coils tend to be pretty binary in my experience...work or don't so I don't think that is your issue. Condensers seem generally poorly made these days so I would try that first - I would also try at the spark plug end and see if you are getting regular spark at a couple of cylinders just to verify what you observed with the cap off....
  6. I got the final driver side seat brackets/hat channels installed over the last few days. Next up is cross shaft support bracket and tiller shaft support bracket...and a thousand more details!
  7. Thank you Bryon - appreciate it. Glad you enjoyed that video - I am having a lot of fun both with the restoration and learning to make videos.
  8. I had this insane idea of shooting daily videos of this restoration during March so I have not been posting much here. I am trying to get the hull finished and painted this month. I think that should happen. The hull is off the rotisserie for the last bit of work. My biggest distraction is the M29 I purchased with all my parts for the T24...it runs but has a ton of problems - so tempting to play with it because it does move under its own power but I am trying (somewhat unsuccessfully) to stay focused on the T24! My checklist: 1. Weld final two seat hat channels and seat brackets. 2. Weld spring seat latches 3. Weld control shaft support/bracket on side of hull (need to fabricate as mine is toast) 4. Weld cross shaft support bracket on driver side of hull 5. Massage bulkhead/bomb box fitment on driver's side and plug weld to floor. 6. Finish cleanup of plug welds on new drivers side 7. Finish front seam on new driver side. 8. Install insulation tabs as needed 9. Repair footman loops (stretcher mods) 10. Repair rear panel - straighten and add pioneer tool brackets 11. Repair bow sections (center & driver side minor dents) 12. Cleanup floor welds from inside hull 13. Verify bulkhead holes and repair as needed. 14. Planish coaming as needed 15. Dents top of bow and stern (minor shrinking/planishing) 16. Final floor shrinking (back on rotisserie for paint 17. Use chemical/media blast to remove flash rust
  9. I am in a similar boat with my T24 project so doing the same research. With the T24, they drew up a blueprint for the various camo patterns - so no freehanding. There were three patterns....one that looks like a 70's era camo or leaf type, one that people call the cow camo because it has very rounded shapes and then the third that looks like streaks that are feathered out. Not my best descriptive writing. To my knowledge the black was a gasoline soluble paint. I will try and look at the T15 pictures I have (not as many as T24) and see if there are examples. My other "quandary" is whether or not to use a true lusterless white. Impossible to keep clean. I am tempted to use an egg shell or even semi-gloss. The prototype T24 had gloss on it....unfortunate that they didn't stick with the gloss! Patrick
  10. Thank you @F.Janssenand @M29C3284 very helpful. Jealous of that original floor pan Alexander! I was under the impression that the stretcher adds were a Norwegian mod, but that sounds wrong. @James Di Giovanni any thoughts? Thanks, Patrick
  11. Greetings Larry - can't wait to see your T15 finished - cool little machines! They were painted white and also painted camo. I believe @James Di Giovanni has the factory prints for the camo on the later machines - maybe he has them for the T15's too. If not, I have a decent collection of pictures that I could scan and supply - offhand I don't remember if there is more than one pattern but James should chime in here.
  12. Greetings @F.Janssen....I am thinking that #10, 11 and 12 should all be M29s....given the hull tags...but.....
  13. Thank you @5280Beltfed. I am thinking someone modified a couple of pieces of an original set. I will get good pictures and post them.
  14. I just bought this very early M29. Runs and drives - needs lots of love, but will fix after my T24 is finished. ORD No. 1005 Hull No. 1313
  15. I bought out a guy who had been collecting Weasels and stuff for a while. I got a lot of rare parts including this very nice Pioneer compass and mount. It is missing the decal so I made one up. I may play with the fonts a little more because they are very close but not quite right - still it looks pretty good. Just need to turn the letters white and print it on a transfer decal.
  16. Question: what are the differences between the Norwegian bows and the original Studebaker bows? I just got a set, but I am not sure exactly what I have - they are missing the "stays" on the second bow from the front...where the windshield section ties into what I would call the extensions. I'll get pictures tomorrow. Thanks! PBT
  17. Spent a few more hours working on the bow. Hammer, slapper, dolly, shrinking disc and torch - rinse and repeat a few hundred times. It didn't look too bad originally (see first picture) - but it does look better flat. The first pictures are the first session - I put a little primer on it at the end of my second session to help me see if there was anything left. Total time - about 4 hours. I believe I am slow at this work, but I can't for the life of me figure out how to make the process go faster without screwing something up - probably just more experience. I still need to address some damage and a prior repair on the top edge of the hull. Once I get the hull off the rotisserie, I have a bit to do in the front center section and the driver side, but I am getting there, one little dent at a time.
  18. Thanks @Byron! I am about to get this hull off the rotisserie again so I can finish all of these little details like insulation tabs and wiring tabs and ......I'll probably be pinging you over the weekend. Thanks again! Patrick
  19. Fastenal is a good shipping option if you need to work something out for a new final drive housing. I shipped a set of tracks from Colorado to NJ for around $200....and motors cross country for like $150. Thanks for the cross reference! Patrick
  20. I know what you mean....I generally don't like removing the history, but I have seen so few correct T24's here in the states...maybe none?...that I thought it was worth it to try and get one back close to factory. I am making a list of the tabs....I appreciate the offer and will let you know. Regards, Patrick
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